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Radiator Removal For 2001 XC70 - Plastive Shield & Oil Hoses

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Oka
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Year and Model: XC70, 2001
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Radiator Removal For 2001 XC70 - Plastive Shield & Oil Hoses

Post by Oka »

Have done many serious work on many different autos without repair manual, just technical ability, Volvo included.
Now, am working on replacing the radiator in the 2001 XC70.

Was able to find (VIDA radiator replacement procedure) on line, but the first page is kinda not clear enough.
Removed the fan but need to get under the radiator. The oil drip shield is already out.

- Don't know how to remove the plastic shield under the car, in front and attached to the bumper. Not the oil drip shield.
I mean the long one attached to the metal shield by the bumper.
- Exactly, the rick on how to disconect the two oil cooler hoses.

Could not fine info on the 2001 XC70. Am just pissed I am chanllenged on the freaking radiator.

Thanks.
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111 Miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

01_Nautic_V70
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Location: Illinois
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

Are you asking how to remove the transmission fluid cooler lines from the radiator? They have quick disconnect clips on them squeeze the tabs together and pull back.

For the front air dam piece, there are two screws on the far left and right ends. Remove with 10mm socket. Piece comes out by tilting down and pulling back (to the rear of car) until the tabs come out of the front bumper.

Oka
Posts: 380
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Year and Model: XC70, 2001
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Post by Oka »

RadiatorPart.jpg
The image shows what I mean. Took this pic from the other XC70 and did a quickie at the office

A - This is the line. In this other XC70, the green tab runs freely. When I pinch on both, no click they just fold on the tube.
B - This is the metal place under the bumper. The one I need would be the plastic one behind it which is "C".
Removed the screws but what else. I could not pull it out from the hook on the right of the picture.
Since the radiator needs to come out from the buttom, this black plastic shield need to come out first.

Thanks for all your help here.
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111 Miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You have to break apart the radiator intercooler AC condenser sandwich to lower the radiator out of the car.

The chances you will break something expensive or ruin something figuring out on the fly is high. An all data subscription or a manual is needed on these cars, and most any car today.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread

Oka
Posts: 380
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Year and Model: XC70, 2001
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Post by Oka »

PlasticGuard.jpg
The snap at the end was the culprit. It took me a while to find it then I used a very long screw driver
to push it in before it could come out. I knew something was hold it back while tugging. Did not want
to break something when I got frustruated when it won't come out.

Now, the lower oil connector won't come out. I tried it a few time and will continue tonight when I get home.
I even used some contraptions, still it won't pull out. I won't give up this evening. I am getting there though.
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111 Miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

Oka
Posts: 380
Joined: 5 March 2013
Year and Model: XC70, 2001
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Has thanked: 9 times
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Post by Oka »

Now I am stuck.
The lower oil line wil not move. Pinched on the green plastic, with a 2x4 and a rod for leverage, it won't move.
I have spent about an hour and a half trying to pull out the lower oil line, but not lucky.

The radiator does not have a nut at the base of the female connection. The new one I need to install has nut,
I believe for this reason.

Eveything is out except the lower oil line. The top line came out with some pulling with the plastic snap, pinched.
Though it is an awkward location, my other option would be to cut through the old radiator with a metal cutter
wheel

Please how on earth can I pull this line out?
Thanks.
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111 Miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Seems like I had this problem once before too...that lower hose gets hung up. I know it's counter-intuitive, but try pinching it and pushing it in with a twist...and then pulling it but smoothly and without much effort. It should come loose!
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
'07 S60 2.5T Blue/Taupe- my kid's Volvo

Oka
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Joined: 5 March 2013
Year and Model: XC70, 2001
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Post by Oka »

Now the new radiator is installed and all the hoses attached. The VADIS info I found, still, is vague.
With everything back, what is the 'correct' process in adding the coolant and making sure oil goes
though to the system?
I found some info on adding the coolant (50/50 mixture) but not on the oil lines.
I read about adding the coolant:
- Starting the engine with the heater turned to the highest
- Turning off the engine at running temperature.
Saw a post about running around the block to reach a running temperature.
I would rather run it in the garage, on the floor ramp to check for any leak.
How can I leave it where it is to get the
engine to running temperature? Coolant level light has always come up since
the old radiator was leaking anyway.
- Good way to check for its running temperature
- Topping the coolant as the tank gets low
- Topping the transmission oil in the transmission after the DIY is complete
- The 2001 XC70 has the two oil lines reconnected.

I need the correct process / procedure.

Thanks.
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111 Miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

How was the lower oil connection? Did you separate it without breaking anything? I know the upper one also takes some force because the two o-rings are quite tight in there. The lower one is rusted on top of it.

As for adding the coolant, here's what I did and basically it replaces the need to wait for the system to burp (reservoir cap being removed, cold engine)

You don't need to touch the heating controls: the coolant circulates at all times through the heater core.

I disconnected the hose at the thermostat housing, covered the housing with some round rubber piece as to keep the coolant from flowing out - it will flow by the small burp pin, then kept the hose vertical and kept refilled it by the opening until all system if full. From time to time I'd lower the hose as when putting it back on the thermostat - the moment I saw coolant coming by the lowered hose, I stopped filling with coolant and connected the hose to the thermostat.

Oka
Posts: 380
Joined: 5 March 2013
Year and Model: XC70, 2001
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
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Post by Oka »

oragex You mentioned ". . . by the opening". Which opening do you mean?

You also mentioned "the moment I saw coolant coming by the lowered hose".
By this time, all the hoses will be by this time all connected after installing the new radiator and ready
to fill the coolant including the lower hose you mentioned. Please excuse my ingorance!

How about the oil lines? How do I know oil will flow through. How do I check for the oil and would need
to check the transmission oil level?

Thanks
2001 Volvo XC70/AWD/Auto/Turbo/146kMiles
2001 Volvo V70XC/AWD/Auto/Turbo/144kMiles
2002 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean/3.0/131K/AWD
2005 Volvo XC90/AWD/V8/Auto 111 Miles
2006 Toyota Sienna LE/AWD 93K
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1985 BMW (E23) 735i(US)/AUTO/209K Miles (Parked since 2011)
1997 Mazda MPV/AUTO/4WD/173K Miles (Parked since 2008)

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