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Brake hose replacement and flushing

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Metallo
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Brake hose replacement and flushing

Post by Metallo »

Hi guys,

I have to change my right rear breake hose, once I am done with it, I guess I can only flush that line, right?
I mean, I do not need to flush the whole system... hence, the other three lines correct?

I ask because I find different opinions on this, somebody says it is not needed some other say it should be done for the entire system.

Thanks for your advice.
Alex
Polar 940 Turbo SW - 1997
XC 70 AWD 2.5 - 2006

MadeInJapan
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Post by MadeInJapan »

Yes, just that line HAS to be flushed. Air shouldn't really travel up to any other line but if you want peace of mind, you might flush the opposite corner...I believe the right rear is tied into the front left off of the master cylinder...if you are going to do any other line, do that one...the other two should be good. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Post by oragex »

as long as the brake fluid reservoir doesn't get empty while the hose is removed - have something ready in advance to seal the brake line while the hose is replaced

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Post by abscate »

If you take the hose off and replace it in a few minutes you can just bleed the caliper under work. If it sits overnight, it might run out enough fluid to make more bleeding necessary.

Remember brake fluid lasts two years so if you have the tools out and the car up, push fluid through the calipers until it's clean
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Post by Metallo »

Thank you all, I will do the work today :)
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Post by abscate »

Make sure the bleeder screw loosens without breaking as first step. Try taking it all the way out.

If you take the hose off, the snap the bleeder, you can't drive the car until you get a new caliper, so now you are stuck.

If the bleeder snaps they almost never leak, and you are still mobile
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Post by vtl »

MadeInJapan wrote:I believe the right rear is tied into the front left off of the master cylinder...
I think it was so in pre-ABS cars. In ABS cars they have 4 independent lines coming out of ABS modulator (since it has to disengage brakes on each wheel independently).

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Post by MadeInJapan »

vtl wrote:
MadeInJapan wrote:I believe the right rear is tied into the front left off of the master cylinder...
I think it was so in pre-ABS cars. In ABS cars they have 4 independent lines coming out of ABS modulator (since it has to disengage brakes on each wheel independently).
That's great news!! Okay, then that makes things even simpler...just do the one! See how it goes after that- I think you'll be fine. :D
'98 S70 T5 Emrld Grn Met/Beige Tons of Upgrades Mobil-1
'04 V70 2.5T Red/Taupe Some Upgrades Mobil-1
'07 S40 T5 AWD 6 speed manual! Silver/Black Stage1 Heico & Elevate
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Post by Metallo »

Hi all,

I have spent 5h trying to loose the hard line nut (13mm) and conterhold the flex line with a 14mm flare wrench.
Believe it or not, no way to move the nut.

I have decided to wait tomorrow morning for the last attempt and wait for PB Blaster to soak in overnight, otherwise I will have to go to a mechanic to do the work.

I must say, being the right rear flex line, it is a very bad position to work with, you really have very little space to turn the wrenches.

By chance, are you guys using any specific tool to loose the brake lines??

Many thanks for your help.

Alex
Polar 940 Turbo SW - 1997
XC 70 AWD 2.5 - 2006

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Post by abscate »

They can be really tough to get apart. Let that PB work for 2-3 days if you can. Since you are replacing the hose, you can also use heat
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