98 V70 Timing belt Change

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 16 Sep 2016, 21:52

Hi friends!

Ok so I'm doing the timing belt on my 98 v70 and I have gotten nearly everything apqrt. I am going to call it night before trying to put "hagrid" back together tomorrow. A couple of issues I have are as follows...

First, when taking off the tensioner idler my BRAND NEW Husky torx 45 bit stripped! I am not sure about the bolt holding the part in, but as far as I can tell it looks a bit boogered up as well. I can't get a gook look at it. I'm going to go purchase a Lisle bit tomorrow and try that. If I did in fact strip this bolt, what are my options? Good news is that the other timing components that I pulled out of the car look nearly brand new (I had no record of the belt being done so I went ahead and did it, but it looks like it was done fairly recently), so if I have to leave it in there I can and drive the car until it fails.

Second, after lining up the timing marks AND putting the ipd cam locking tool in place, the sprockets still moved a couple of teeth on me

! They didn't move much and the crankshaft pulley is still lined up. How do I fix this when I go to put the new belt on?

Third, after compressing the tensioner, I used a nail as my "grenade pin." The tensioner then proceeded to bend the nail! Maybe I need a better nail, but what else do you guys use as grenade pins? I have heard hex keys work, but what size (I don't have any small ones)?

And for those of you trying this job could of things I learned... Removing the computer box and serpentine belt tensioner really opens up alot of space to work so I recommend taking those extra steps. Also, removing the front engine mount and raising the engine just a little bit made getting the time belt out a snap! I recommend taking that extra step as well if you are a noob.

Big thanks to Ozark Lee, Deep South, Ben at FCP, and Robert DIY for their write ups and videos and also thanks to the countless people who posted tips on this job. It is because of you that I had the courage to even try this.

any advice or tips that you guys have would be greatly appreciated.

chuck

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 17 Sep 2016, 02:24

If only a couple of teeth, just move the sprockets back to where the marks are..no harm as long as they were not off by a lot.
In regards to that idler roller- I had the same thing happen on my '98 S70...I'm sure it was in there from the factory. I finally buggered up the bolt head so bad that I had to use a cut-off tool and just cut the bolt off (after hours of trying the right way) then used some strong vice grips to turn the left over nub out of the threads. Good luck to you and maybe you won't have to do that with yours.

P.S. I've used hex keys for the grenade pin...you might go to your local hardware store and buy one..I've also used cotter pins.

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 17 Sep 2016, 04:11

thank MIJ! After looking at my car again, I am not sure how you pulled that cutting trick off... Where did you cut the bolt? What kind of cutting tool did you use? Would it be more obvious if I was doing the water pump and had the lower timing cover off?

Also... what about leaving the metal housing in place and just replacing the roller? That bolt seems easy enough to get to. Anyone tried that?

thanks for the advice!

ck

Post by **cn90** » 17 Sep 2016, 06:13

OK...

I wrote most of the tips in this DIY:

DIY: 1998 Volvo S70 Timing Belt, WP, Cam Seals, SB Overhaul
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53722

1. The tensioner pin: drill bit will do it. Remember to turn the crank pulley twice (Clockwise), check the marks etc. before releasing the pin on the hydraulic tensioner.

2. The famous T45 bolt: the reason people bugger this bolt:
- Either dirt is inside, preventing the socket from "engaging" deep enough. So clean the bolt recess from dirt before working on it.
- Or during undoing the bolt, people forget that the T45 socket has a tendency to come out ---> stripping. The trick is: hold the socket INWARD with LEFT hand while RIGHT hand undoing the bolt. The LEFT hand helps hold the socket in place.

Worst come to worst, you need to drill the bolt.
* Right-angle drill etc.
* Some people drill a hole in the fender and use a straight drill bit (long enough to reach).

Post by **kahl** » 17 Sep 2016, 06:48

Take a look at this speciality tool I made for that T-45. It is short enough to stick a piece of wood against the inner fender and use it as a fulcrum to press in the mating surface of the T-45. If you have to drill through the inner fender you may be able to use a hammer impact driver to dislodge the bolt. If that does'nt work drill as the head.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 17 Sep 2016, 07:40

If I recall- that bolt in question goes all the way through the roller so if you can get the head off (I cut mine but it was still tedious)...I may have cut enough of the head apart (similar to drilling it off) that the roller slipped off past the nub that was left. I just remember using very small cut-off discs....Once the roller was out of the way, the vice grips worked! Of course, using a tool like above or whatever to get a square placement of the T45 in the bolt head is a much better idea. Once out, by all means replace the bolt!

I do not think messing with the water pump has anything to do with the location of this roller pulley.... It should be in clear sight without all of that and with your ECU box out of the way, you should have room...it's still a tight fit in there to do anything. I think that was part of my problem- not being able to get any pressure up on that bolt!

Post by **erikv11** » 17 Sep 2016, 08:25

charleskennedy23 wrote:
First, when taking off the tensioner idler my BRAND NEW Husky torx 45 bit stripped! I am not sure about the bolt holding the part in, but as far as I can tell it looks a bit boogered up as well. I can't get a gook look at it. I'm going to go purchase a Lisle bit tomorrow and try that. If I did in fact strip this bolt, what are my options?
...

Second, after lining up the timing marks AND putting the ipd cam locking tool in place, the sprockets still moved a couple of teeth on me ! They didn't move much and the crankshaft pulley is still lined up. How do I fix this when I go to put the new belt on?

Third, after compressing the tensioner, I used a nail as my "grenade pin." The tensioner then proceeded to bend the nail! Maybe I need a better nail, but what else do you guys use as grenade pins? I have heard hex keys work, but what size (I don't have any small ones)? ...

First: The easiest way to deal with this is to approximate kahl's tool with an L-shaped torx (like hex key, but with torx on the end) and a small diameter pipe slipped over the end. Lever the torx in HARD with one hand, turn the head from the end of the pipe with the other. I know there are a hundred tips and ways to do this but IMHO many of them are not good solutions, even though they work for people. Since you are going out to buy a tool, I'd strongly recommend going with that style. If you don't have 12 inches of small diameter pipe laying around, then buy a piece.

Second: Just move them back by hand before you install the belt. When the crank is on the mark you can move them anywhere you want. When the crank is on the mark. Be sure to keep the crank on the mark.

Third: Take the hydraulic tensioner to the hardware store and find a hex key that fits in the hole. The L shape makes it much more convenient than a drill bit or a nail and it will cost you about one dollar.

Post by **sleddriver** » 17 Sep 2016, 11:07

Re: Stripped Husky torx. Yep...that bolt will easily mangle the cheap stuff. You need a black one made of hardened steel, like the Lisle. Also, wedging some wood between the frame member and your wrench will ensure it won't "cam out" while you're applying the torque.

Re: Sprockets. Use a long screwdriver on the mounting bolts to torque it back into place. No worries.

Re: Grenade pin. That thing exerts a tremendous amount of force, eh? Once again, this calls for hardened steel. Right angle hex wrench will work. So will a drill bit, though it might be too long to easily extract once you pull the pin. A piece of wire made of spring steel will also work; that's what I use.

charleskennedy23 · Post by **charleskennedy23** » 17 Sep 2016, 18:34

Thanks for all the responses... Here's the outcome...

I purchased the Lisle t-45 this morning and went at it again. I used a wooden shim as a wedge between my ratchet and the wheel well to make sure the bit stayed in. I then put a cheater bar on the ratchet, and turned. The end result was a completely stripped out bolt. So I decided to punt... This means I left the roller / pulley thingy in the car. Here's my logic for calling in the punt team instead of going for it on 4th down... The part was still in excellent condition (as were all the parts I pulled out). I put about 9,000 miles per year on the car and hopefully it'll still be serviceable when I do the timing belt again in 7-years. I suspect the timing belt was done in 2012 when the car had about 93,000 miles on it (the water pump has a 2012 date stamp on it). Right now I'm at 134,000 miles. In 7-years that roller will have about 100k on it so I going to gamble that it'll make it. If I come into some money, maybe i'll let a local indy shop deal with it. If the part fails then i'll have a great parts car for someone.

On the sprockets... Thanks for the tip on manually moving them back. I had no problem turning them with my hands. However, I fought and fought to get those things lined up perfectly. Every time I put the belt on, I could tell it wasn't on right. I even said *^&#-it once and pulled the pin anyway, only to learn that the belt was too loose. So I pulled the tensioner and while compressing it AGAIN, I started contemplating the great mysteries of the world like "Why the *%$# would IPD sell a cam locking tool that didn't work", and then it dawned on me... the reason I was having problems with the IPD cam lock was that the sprockets were not perfectly lined up. So I futzed with the sprockets until I got the IPD lock to work, and low and behold the timing belt went on much easier! Props to Ben at FCP for the tip in his video about turning the crank to get the slack out of the belt. That did the trick for me. After this I put everything back together, fired Hagrid up, and it was smooth sailing!

On the grenade pin... I used a small drill bit and that did the trick! Hopefully between now and the next time I need to do the belt I'll pick up a small allen wrench.

Thanks again for all the help. You guys are awesome. MIJ you are a beast for finding a way top cut that bolt out. I have no idea how you pulled that off, lol.

chuck

Post by **sleddriver** » 17 Sep 2016, 19:09

You could also cut the head off with a Sawzall + bi-metal metal cutting blade. I resorted to this method when frustration grew attempting to remove the rear, driver, hydro-engine mount. Sawing that stud off makes removal easy....should of thought of that sooner!