98 S70 Cranks, No Start, Misfiring?

MarkBoomAllen · Post by **MarkBoomAllen** » 16 Mar 2017, 00:07

Hey, so a couple weeks ago my S70 started having an abnormal idle a little higher than usual. One day, I moved my car from one parking spot to another, started right up and drove fine, parked it for the night, moved it in under 2 minutes and turned it off. Next morning, went to start the car and it cranked and started up for all of 1 second before cutting off and never starting again since. In this time I've replaced: Alternator, Starter, Spark Plugs, Ignition Cables, and the Distributor Cap and Rotor. I've also ensured that the ignition coil is at least sending spark, however when we checked the spark plug on a ground it was seeming to misfire, although I'm not sure how effective the test was. The starter cranks strong when the battery is full (If I figure this out I'm buying a new battery right away in case this wore on it). No fuel issues, and the mechanical timing seemed to be right. I'm stuck and have no idea where to look. Any help is greatly appreciated!

98 Volvo S70 Crank but no start.
Spark plug when tested doesn't fire on every interval but is getting spark.
Could a bad ignition coil cause this? I thought that if it was getting a spark anywhere the ignition coil was good.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Mar 2017, 01:51

Coils can fail sporadically but it is uncommon. Your engine is turning over at 100rpm or so, that still several (10) sparks per second. If you are just seeing one every few seconds...

Some starter fluid will isolate fuel from ignition troubleshooting...check the no start thread.

Don't wear the battery down starting. If a Volvo doesn't start in 5 seconds , stop and diagnose.

Bricks_and_boxcars · Post by **Bricks_and_boxcars** » 16 Mar 2017, 07:38

I had a 98 s70 do this.
It's the integrated power stage (switching node) and coil. Go to a boneyard pull a replacement unit and test. Check your grounds all along the way.
To confirm meter your ignition coil separate from its power stage. Refer to spec. for the ohms (coil to ground, coil to coil, ground to case) of that one.
Put an obd2 scanner on there and pull the power train (generic P code) codes and post 'em if you don't mind.
This was the last year for the distributor. The rest got DIS.

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Mar 2017, 08:19

MarkBoomAllen wrote:... moved it in under 2 minutes and turned it off. Next morning, went to start the car and it cranked and started up for all of 1 second before cutting off and never starting again since. ...

This is classic lawn mower syndrome behavior, try putting one teaspoon of oil in each cylinder then give it a good long crank with a fresh battery charge.

I know you are troubleshooting electrical now but as you said maybe those tests are not giving great info.

Post by **misha** » 16 Mar 2017, 08:43

This ^^^.

MarkBoomAllen · Post by **MarkBoomAllen** » 16 Mar 2017, 08:45

You're telling me to put oil above or below the spark plugs? Like, pull the boots, then undo each plug and pour oil into the cylinders directly?

MarkBoomAllen · Post by **MarkBoomAllen** » 16 Mar 2017, 10:48

Aired out the cylinders and put oil in them, charging battery now. WIll report if it comes back to life soon. If not, then I guess I'm going to auto zone to rent a code reader.

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Mar 2017, 11:55

Best is to put the oil in right before cranking, if the battery charge rakes a ling time you may want to drop in a bit more. But don't overdo it. Be sure to keep the pedal the floor while you are cranking it, until the engine starts to sputter and catch.

If it still doesn't start, get the codes for sure.

Bricks_and_boxcars · Post by **Bricks_and_boxcars** » 16 Mar 2017, 14:55

What do the plugs look like after a read? Normal wear or oily deposits?

crlande · Post by **crlande** » 16 Mar 2017, 15:34

Bad camshaft position sensor would cause cranking and no start.