I have a 2002 V70XC with 162k that currently will not start, and the reason isn't very obvious. It had initially started with a hard start with a check engine code P0016 and P0304, relating to the camshaft position sensor, then it would crank but not fire. That was replaced and the car started for about a day, but the next day it was back to cranking but not starting, as well as the car giving the message "Reduced engine performance." Another oddity is that the car will give the message "Brake failure - Stop Safely" when the voltage on the battery drops, but goes away when it has been charged. Connecting it to a Dice Vida gave the codes:
Starting, Engine hard to start/cranks slowly, Unsure when/at all times, AB
CEM-1C02 L-signal Signal too low
ECM-3000 Inlet Camshaft Sensor - Signal Missing
ECM-5200 RPM Sensor - Faulty Signal
I brought it into a shop that suspected it being the crankshaft position sensor after being told the tachometer will spike after cranking for a few seconds. They replaced this sensor and it still will not start. They had verified that it has everything it needs to start, it's getting fuel, it has spark, it has compression, but it just won't actually start. He currently believes it is a faulty ECU, but it seems like it's just a guess. I'm hoping someone has some insight as to what this problem may be, really any advice would be useful right now.
Thanks.
02 V70XC - Crank but no start, "engine performance reduced"
- oragex
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When a garage says 'faulty ECU' it's either they had run out of ideas - probably the case here - or worst, they are in for some skimming.
Do you know what exactly happened before the issue started, or was the car just bought with it? Can you connect the battery to a running car and try starting it?
Do you know what exactly happened before the issue started, or was the car just bought with it? Can you connect the battery to a running car and try starting it?
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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HP94
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It took an extra moment to fire on occasion, no problems cranking, and it happened when the temperature was around freezing. It wasn't enough for me to think about much, as this also stopped happening when it warmed up. If I remember correctly, a day or two before the check engine light came on it took a couple of key turns to start; it cranked for a few seconds the first time, fired up fine the second time. No error messages or check engine lights at that time, and the car drove without issue. I believe the battery is just over a year old, and I can look into connecting it to another car to see if it starts.
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HP94
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Firstly I want to apologize for my bad terminology, sometimes I am idiot when it comes to that. The car is firing, it's just not starting. It has seemingly everything it needs to run, spark, fuel, air, compression, but it will not. The battery was not tested in another car, although powering the car from another power source did not make the car start.
The "NO REPLY" problem , again ..Can't ANYONE do ANYTHING correctly ? A broad stroke, includes Volvo and our government ! This start up problem reminds me of the carburetor and choke days OR the days of the '79 Saab 900 with the malfunctioning fifth injector(cold start) ..
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Girthbrooks67
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- Joined: 18 January 2020
- Year and Model: 2002
- Location: Oregon
Having the same problem. Just boight the car a wwek n a half ago from a used "dealer" I fill tranny fluid cuz the mssg brd said to check and it was almost a quart low. Replaced the middle i belive crank sensor. Wiring going to the injector( sorry new at the car thing. ) i think. Cuz when i would realse the lil safty bar on the midsle of the five. And pulled the connectora apart it was still skipping like i did nothing were as the other 4 all showed major missfiring( i thinkn once a gain just learnong this car lingo). So i went with fixing that 2 wire set of connected electronics. Im n a Sacramento safeway store parking lot when i live in klamath falls oregon now unable to start. Otll turn over light a Mohammad Ali prize fighter but ?. When i bought the car supposed new battery was dead that night. Continue the jump started with a deep cycle battery next week and a half. having no real problems with Electronics other than the battery dying every night decided yesterday to put the deep cycle battery in cuz I had to read it about 6 hours with a side post battery so stilted backwards just a little bit not enough to make anything leak. But with all the side because of the shortness of the positive connection how to hook together with jumper cables to the battery even though it was only an inch or three away but got tired of the added risk of anyting electrical happening so switch to top post deep cycle wish fit and seemed to work exactly great drove around Sacramento very few hours and the fourth time after I started it which would also be two times after I filled the transmission fluid the deep cycle battery was fully charged is that that and what's a jump start the car cranks over everything works including horn and lights but will not actually catch
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VolvogoBrrrrt
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Same problem, I changed the crank sensor and so far so good. DO NOT BUY THE AMAZON SENSOR. It is garbage and would not start with it.
If it helps, for whatever reason in the cold 93 octane makes it crank the first time, and in the summer, 87 octane lets it crank the first time.
There is a software update that fixes this, but at $225 for the loading of the software not including the actual software, no thanks. It should have been a recall. They apparently adjust the tolerances for a now older car.

If it helps, for whatever reason in the cold 93 octane makes it crank the first time, and in the summer, 87 octane lets it crank the first time.
There is a software update that fixes this, but at $225 for the loading of the software not including the actual software, no thanks. It should have been a recall. They apparently adjust the tolerances for a now older car.
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