I have a relatively mechanically sound 1989 240 wagon. However the AC has been long dead. I'd like to get it going again. My mechanic said it could be done
but has risks. He can't completely know if what he will do will work.
The system has to be converted from R12 to 134. He must replace the compressor, receiver/dryer, low pressure hose (to expansion valve) and the expansion valve. If this doesn't work the price could double. He can't tell until he actually does it.
On top of all this, the 240 wagons AC was underpowered having been designed for the sedan. There might even be a 15 degree difference which would be unacceptable.
The question is; has anyone endeavored this type of conversion? How did it turn out?
Thanks
1989 240 Wagon Air conditioner
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lummert
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All of the A/C lines need to be inspected. My 1988 760 Turbo wagon had rusted out A/C parts under the front of the car. Never had working A/C in the more than 11 years of ownership. I ended up removing everything under the hood related to the A/C.
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon
- 93Regina
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Volvo has an updated expansion tube to be used. That said, the evaporator in OEM 134a setups is a bit larger I think.
2. Nitrogen Leak Detector Test and Bubble Test
I recently did this on my 1992 240 wagon which also had a completely dead AC system. I had originally intended to just use the R134a retrofit kit but then after reading tales of woe related to mixing oil types, dying compressors, etc. I decided to install a new compressor which then led me to flushing all of the lines.
The only difficult part was getting the old compressor out and the new one in. After that, it was simply an exercise in removing pipes/hoses one at a time and cleaning/flushing them and reinstalling with new o rings. You will also replace the expansion valve and drier (included in kit). I didn't remove the condenser or evaporator, but removed and flushed everything else. I flushed the condenser and evaporator in situ. I had my own vacuum pump to test the system before I took it in for a R134 charge. It works well now!
It's not a trivial job but not impossible either. It took me several days of a few hours here and there. I'd imagine paying a mechanic to do it would probably quickly exceed the value of the car, though.
The only difficult part was getting the old compressor out and the new one in. After that, it was simply an exercise in removing pipes/hoses one at a time and cleaning/flushing them and reinstalling with new o rings. You will also replace the expansion valve and drier (included in kit). I didn't remove the condenser or evaporator, but removed and flushed everything else. I flushed the condenser and evaporator in situ. I had my own vacuum pump to test the system before I took it in for a R134 charge. It works well now!
It's not a trivial job but not impossible either. It took me several days of a few hours here and there. I'd imagine paying a mechanic to do it would probably quickly exceed the value of the car, though.
Hello 93Regina!
I have a 1983 242 that I bought 3 years ago. AC was disconnected when I got it, and unknown condition. I've been working to diagnose and figure out how to get her working again too. Getting very close, and have parts on the way. You can follow my thread here. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=81150&p=439490#p439490
Do you have the York compressor (taller vertical style...not round cylinder type)?
I will be adding more info as I go along. Hopefully reporting soon that I'm blowing cold.
If your compressor works, and system otherwise sound, you should look at 12a as alternative to switching to 134a. 134a not a good option for existing system, but OK for complete system retrofit (as you noted...but probably need the evaporator too, which is part of the volvo 134a conversion kit). Much smaller molecule than R12 means much more likely to leak at o-ring, compressor shaft seal, etc (again, in existing system mainly). Incompatible oils means massive complete system flushing. Much higher head pressures shorten life of compressor and system. Less cooling ability might not do the trick in your wagon anyway (probably won't from all I've been reading). I did the research and reading from many perspectives and feel comfortable going this route. You may not. Since my system holds vacuum, and compressor works, I may very well have this blowing cold for under $100 (again, more to follow on that). Hopefully my thread and journey can help you too. I'd be happy to answer any questions.
Good luck in your search for a cool ride!
Doug
I have a 1983 242 that I bought 3 years ago. AC was disconnected when I got it, and unknown condition. I've been working to diagnose and figure out how to get her working again too. Getting very close, and have parts on the way. You can follow my thread here. viewtopic.php?f=2&t=81150&p=439490#p439490
Do you have the York compressor (taller vertical style...not round cylinder type)?
I will be adding more info as I go along. Hopefully reporting soon that I'm blowing cold.
If your compressor works, and system otherwise sound, you should look at 12a as alternative to switching to 134a. 134a not a good option for existing system, but OK for complete system retrofit (as you noted...but probably need the evaporator too, which is part of the volvo 134a conversion kit). Much smaller molecule than R12 means much more likely to leak at o-ring, compressor shaft seal, etc (again, in existing system mainly). Incompatible oils means massive complete system flushing. Much higher head pressures shorten life of compressor and system. Less cooling ability might not do the trick in your wagon anyway (probably won't from all I've been reading). I did the research and reading from many perspectives and feel comfortable going this route. You may not. Since my system holds vacuum, and compressor works, I may very well have this blowing cold for under $100 (again, more to follow on that). Hopefully my thread and journey can help you too. I'd be happy to answer any questions.
Good luck in your search for a cool ride!
Doug
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