Hey guys,
A few related things here...any advice or insight is greatly appreciated. I've been chasing some elusive clunks in the rear end. Only happens at low speeds (under 20 mph) and usually while turning and such. Front and rear trailing arm bushings are newer and very solid. Checked torque rod and panhard rod bushings...also very solid and centered. Muffler hanging brackets all in tact and no clunk there. Brakes have been making odd noised and I've known since I bought the car a couple years ago, they needed to be done in rear. Parking brake works well....but sometimes seems to stick as I can hear a noise when going slow that stops if I pull up slightly on park brake and release (usually includes a "clunk" when I do that). Maybe needs lubrication somewhere? Rear pads are thin, rotors not looking their best but not horrible. Will be replacing both pads and rotors. Do you guys think replacing parking brake shoes, springs, etc. should be done at this time? shoes have about 1/8 of meat on them...seem to be worn evenly. Being an Oregon car, (no salt) things look quite clean in there considering how long since things have been cleaned up in there.
Looks like it would be a real beotch to try to replace parking brake bits without pulling hub/axle to get out of the way. Not sure what's involved there...but rather not if not needed. But concerned that may be cause of some noises that are really bugging me. Any tricks to doing parking brake shoes and bits?
Anyway, I digress since that isn't even the topic of the post, albeit related and I appreciate any help on above. When I grab the hub after removing the rotor, and push in and out (towards diff and away from diff) I get a clunk from end play. It's odd, because I didn't get that at all before taking the tire off (maybe shoes against rotor kept that from moving?). I grabbed tire and shook from 6 and 3 and from 12 and 6 positions very hard to check to see if wheel bearings seemed tight and good. Was extremely solid. But just grabbing the hub and doing it, I'm getting end this end play noise. Not much movement, can barely see it move if at all, but can hear it. How tight should this be? It's maybe a few thousands, no dial indicator to measure at the moment. Added to youtube, link to show what I mean I'm assuming it would probably have to be tightened up by replacing bearings or shims at diff end or something. Rather not get into that, but was wondering if this could be cause of my slow speed clunking (doesn't even have to be real bumpy road...just driving slow straight and/or turning, like in parking lot). My guess would be no, but thought I'd glean what I can from your collective experience and knowledge. Damn clanking and clunking...such is life with an old 240 I suppose. Ugh.
Thoughts?
Thanks!!
'83 volvo 240 rear axle end play?
- 93Regina
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I believe C-Clips are used on drive axles.
I believe axle bearings are lubricated via grease, not rear end oil, which means, these bearings go dry with time.
Look here for a service manual
If you can't find the one on axle, let me know via PM
Thank you! A bit more involved job than I want to do right now (replacing rear axle/wheel bearings), but the resources are always appreciated. I got the rear brakes all done (rotors/pads...but left the parking brakes alone for now). Noises in rear still persist, UGH! I'm wondering if bearings or perhaps slop in diff or U-joints, or something in drive train could be cause of noise. Sure seems like suspension related sound, vs. drive train based on how it's acting.
I have to be going below 10 to 15 miles an hour. Can be coasting in neutral, or have in gear, doesn't matter. Mostly if I'm turning at these lower speeds. Get no knocks, clunks, etc at higher speeds, even if I hit big pot holes or speed bumps. All rear bushings are super tight, no slop in anything. Shocks are new (sachs/boge oem type). All shock mounts, anti-sway, bushing bolts torqued tight. Upper and lower spring plates rust free and tight. I can't get any noise no matter how hard I bounce car rear up and down, or sway it from side to side, while sitting in garage (and I've got it moving pretty darn good doing that). So, kind of down to drive train I suppose? Don't get any noise or play shaking drive shaft while under the car. But if rear end off he ground, and I turn wheels, seems to be quite a bit of slop in the diff. That is to say, I can move wheel quite a bit before "resistance" is felt from diff gears. No expert on this stuff, and I don't know what that is supposed to look/feel like. Could add video if helpful. Wish I had a brand new 240 to compare to
Been doing some searching for normal diff slop, but nothing concrete on what I should be looking at/for.
I have to be going below 10 to 15 miles an hour. Can be coasting in neutral, or have in gear, doesn't matter. Mostly if I'm turning at these lower speeds. Get no knocks, clunks, etc at higher speeds, even if I hit big pot holes or speed bumps. All rear bushings are super tight, no slop in anything. Shocks are new (sachs/boge oem type). All shock mounts, anti-sway, bushing bolts torqued tight. Upper and lower spring plates rust free and tight. I can't get any noise no matter how hard I bounce car rear up and down, or sway it from side to side, while sitting in garage (and I've got it moving pretty darn good doing that). So, kind of down to drive train I suppose? Don't get any noise or play shaking drive shaft while under the car. But if rear end off he ground, and I turn wheels, seems to be quite a bit of slop in the diff. That is to say, I can move wheel quite a bit before "resistance" is felt from diff gears. No expert on this stuff, and I don't know what that is supposed to look/feel like. Could add video if helpful. Wish I had a brand new 240 to compare to
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jimmy57
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The wheel bearings hold those axles in. There is a slight end play but if you have tire off then you need to use some spacers, like a stack of flat washers, with three lugnuts turned backwards (taper out) screwed down and then you can see end play without having rotor loose from axle flange.
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