Questions about oil changes on a car that's hardly driven

[oragex]

First, congrats for an almost new car. Not relevant, but if you even sell it, don't bring it to the main dealer: it will give you half the value.

That said, the biggest concern about your car is the PCV system (you may google up for details). Specifically short distance trips is what clogs this system the faster. I see two things what you can do about: the first is to push a little more the engine at the begging (accelerate faster if possible), so as to bring the engine to the normal temperature as quick as possible (i.e. bring the temperature gauge at 12h). The reason is the PCV system clogs exactly when the engine runs while not at the normal temperature.

The PCV can be verified (there are videos on Youtube) and may need replaced in the near future.

The second thing which is much easier to achieve is indeed to switch to synthetic. I personally use Castrol Syntec 0W40 because the engine warms up faster and the oil stays clear for longtime. I do about 5000 miles a year and only change the oil once in a year and I absolutely don't believe the 'twice a year' myth when it comes to low miles and synthetic oil. I also use and recommend a quality filter, Mann filter is sold on Ebay and it's the manufacturer that produces the filters for the Volvo dealers.

While there, I'd recommend a transmission fluid replacement with the correct 3309 fluid type. It will be a great asset if looking to sell the car one day.

One last thing (and I'm done). Given the extremely low miles yearly, I suggest not filling the gas tank only once a year. The gasoline does degrade after a few months, so it's better to keep the tank say at 1/4 so as to having to refill it at least every 2 months. This will keep the gasoline fresh and will help keeping the injectors clean and working properly.

[June]

If you feel you cannot afford two oil changes per year, sell the car. A car not maintained will be junk within a few years. It might still look great but untrustworthy tires, break system, transmission, and a engine clogged with carbon will be the result. Also at that 10 year mark it's due for a timing belt service. Consult your maintenance schedule. it's years or milage whichever comes first. June

[Rattnalle]

With that milage it'll be once a year according to the schedule, not more. Save the money for more important repairs. After just a few hundred the oil is still pretty much new..

That said it's better for the car to be driven more. Or at least a few more longer trips to make sure it's really warm and you can replace the fuel in the tank.

I'll be doing an oil change soon after driving 7500 miles in the last four months..

[abscate]

Pengo...you could go every two years if you change one thing in your habits. Once or twice a month have someone take your car on the highway for a 30 minute drive at 60 mph. Even better if they can do it once a week

Oil doesn't go bad sitting. You might lose a bit of octane running only 2-3 tanks of gas a year but don't worry about that.

I would use synthetic in a turbo, it just clogs less

I run a turbo beetle about 5k every two years like this.

[erikv11]

Keep using full synthetic, it is a real plus four your low-mileage use case in that it helps minimize PCV trouble too. But definitely save a few bucks by changing the oil once a year or less, 18 months is fine with the mileage you put on it. Yes, full synth for a turbo.

I totally agree it would help the car's longevity to get some more frequent highway duty.

[Georgeandkira]

Without oil analysis these questions can only be answered by gut.
Maybe a mechanic with LOTS of experience could catalog his experiences but still, there'd be no science behind any answer.

My gut says to go with a full synthetic. My reasoning is that "they" (the oil manufacturers / blenders) say true synthetics have none of the waxes and other crud found in conventional oils. These baddies combine with moisture leading to sludge and acids.
Low mileage cars like yours will accumulate moisture in their crankcases.

Could you skip changing the filter element??? Possibly, I suppose, but then again how tight is your budget? Filters are cheaper bought from online sources like FCP or eEuroparts or IPD. They commonly have "3-fer" sales. DO NOT pay the hideous rip-off prices charged by local auto stores. They charge $14 to $17 per.

Also, moisture in cars' exhaust systems needs to be driven out by heat. This was always the caveat against dual exhaust systems in locally driven vehicles. The systems rusted out faster because they never heated up.
Yours is rusting now.

Your statement, "I don't have a lot of opportunities to drive around in circles on the highway..." seems odd without context. Do you take public transportation to work and have the luxury of walking to your terminal? How many cars are in your family such that you haven't the "opportunity" to heat up this poor, neglected, lonely XC70....at least bi-weekly? Is this a "dead man's car"?

The "PVC thing" can be checked with either a rubber glove stretched tightly over the oil filler neck or with a balloon secured on the dipstick's tube after the dipstick has been removed. Either way you'll be looking for the balloon or glove NOT TO EXPAND. Failure of the PCV system will result in positive crankcase pressure. It is this pressure which will expand the glove or balloon.

Selling the car while it's attractively young to more buyers might be the thing to do.
Changing the timing belt, brake fluid and seeing that the coolant and bevel gear lube is ship-shape now will make it irresistible to freaks like us. Also, truthfully stating that you've inspected the underused parking brake hardware will assure you a spot in heaven.

Tell any prospective buyer that your outstanding, youthful car has the vastly more economical 5 cylinder engine. Ask a healthy price and STICK TO IT (unless you sell it to one of us)!

BTW: Where in the "usa" are you? I can exercise your car for you and perform maintenance operations for a very modest fee. Cheers, Kira

[June]

I'm not selling the car, not for a long while at any rate. There's no public transportation here so I'd be dead in the water without it. I don't drive it much because I work from home and do most everything over the internet.

When you say "oil filler neck", you mean the opening you pour new oil into? I don't remember there being much of a neck there to secure anything to, I'll have to look at that.

> has the vastly more economical 5 cylinder engine
Did american 07's even come in any other option?

I assumed it was a second car likely kept rather than traded in.

Yes they are talking about the oil fill opening under the cap. A glove will fit.

I would use a light weight full synthetic oil. Thinner oil will circulate faster since you don't run the interstate much and have short distance trips. Also a oil filter designed for extended change interval as oil filters are known to break down.

Also from another post to run the car hard to warm it up. No, keep rpm low until temperature gauge is to normal spot on the gauge then tack it up and run it as hard as you want. These engines don't do well without a good higher rpm run every so often. June