05 s60 crank but no start
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allan4187
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 18 May 2014
- Year and Model: 2005 s60, 2001 s80
- Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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05 s60 crank but no start
I have a 2005 volvo s60 2.5t. Two weeks ago I had an issue where the car would turn over but not start. It sputtered once or twice but that's it. I turned repeatedly and nothing. Tach would jump randomly while turning. Once I got a "reduced engine performance" so it made me think to gorent a code reader from auto zone. I got a crank position code. I changed that, cleared the codes, and the car started. It ran fine for two weeks. However, when cold it seemed to start hard. Maybe I would get a sputter or two, but then it would start fine and run fine. Finally, the other day it returned to past behavior of turning but not starting. I can smell gas so I'm sure I'm getting fuel. After turning quite a few times with no luck (maybe a sputter or two) I got a "reduced engine performance" message again. I ran down to auto zone right away and got the code reader again. This time got p0017 crank position - cam position correlation - bank 1 sensor b. I replaced the cam position sensor thinking that would help, but nothing. After reading some, I feared a timing issue so I took off the timing belt cover and it looks like the timing mark on intake and exhaust are aligned. I suppose they could be off a tooth? What are your thoughts?
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
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- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
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Any weakness in the signal path between the ECU and any of the sensors can fool the diagnostics into thinking the sensor is bad. I've come to the conclusion that when you have problems like this on these 10-15 year old cars that you shouldn't spend a dime on parts until you've pulled the ECU out, cleaned the contacts and reinstalled it. A correlation to temperature swings might just support the idea of a weak connection somewhere. The tool to unlock/relock the ECU in place seems to be quite available and reasonably priced these days.
Good luck!
Good luck!
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allan4187
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 18 May 2014
- Year and Model: 2005 s60, 2001 s80
- Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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I thought you were crazy...but I went outside anyways and jiggled the ECU for the hell of it and the car started....maybe you are on to something? What do I do now? Remove it And clean the contact you say? Someone on another site is telling me my problems lie with the fact that the crank sensor I bought was autozone brand not Volvo....sounds like I committed a mortal sin.
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chrism
- Posts: 1307
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- Year and Model: S80 / 2005
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I'd hang onto the OE sensors if you still have them.
"...sounds like I committed a mortal sin..."
Don't feel bad. I bought a $350 throttle body that didn't solve my problem - reseating the ECU into the connector fixed it. I think that's what I'd try if I was you. Hit the link below.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hardware-Too ... 3=&veh=sem
"...sounds like I committed a mortal sin..."
Don't feel bad. I bought a $350 throttle body that didn't solve my problem - reseating the ECU into the connector fixed it. I think that's what I'd try if I was you. Hit the link below.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hardware-Too ... 3=&veh=sem
- RickHaleParker
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I bought was autozone brand not Volvo....sounds like I committed a mortal sin.
In the eyes of Volvo fundamentalist .... you did, now your a marked man.
I would pull the ECU and cleanup the edge contacts with electrical contact cleaner. Get a stiff cleaning brush so you can scrub the contacts.
In the eyes of Volvo fundamentalist .... you did, now your a marked man.
I would pull the ECU and cleanup the edge contacts with electrical contact cleaner. Get a stiff cleaning brush so you can scrub the contacts.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
- abscate
- MVS Moderator
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You will get spurious cam and crank codes if the car sputters or misfires, I would look for root cause.
Plugs should be <30k miles, if you have been jump starting at all it's time to replace ignition coils that are > 100k miles, and finally test fuel pressure at the rail. This is all stuff to check before ECU
Plugs should be <30k miles, if you have been jump starting at all it's time to replace ignition coils that are > 100k miles, and finally test fuel pressure at the rail. This is all stuff to check before ECU
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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allan4187
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 18 May 2014
- Year and Model: 2005 s60, 2001 s80
- Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Car ran fine for about a week. Now, this morning back to crank with no start. Pulled the ECU, checked contacts (looked clean) and reseated the ECU. Still no start. I'm down to waiting for the genuine Volvo crank sensor to come in the mail. Got delayed....that's my only hope. I'll post the results of that once I get it put in.
- mrbrian200
- Posts: 1554
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- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T FWD
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Yet another case of the tach jumping erratically while cranking on the starter combined with hard starting. That's 3 threads in approximately 1 week that have mentioned this. I'm convinced there's something specific/common cause to vehicles that exhibit this. Where can I sift through existing Volvo TSBs?
- mrbrian200
- Posts: 1554
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- Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T FWD
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I'm finding one reference via google to TSB 228011, points to a thread here on MVS. Rerouting and shielding the crank position sensor wire with foil appears to fixed it for one person. I would expect results could vary from one vehicle to the next. It's worth a try. If you have an old O2 sensor hanging around, those have a specific type braided EM/heat shield around the pigtail wires that would probably be more suitable if you're willing to unseat the terminals from the CPS connector to slide it over the wires. If accompanied by misfires after the engine is running this would also suggest a grounding issue somewhere, either at the coil packs or between the engine/transmission and the chassis.
I'm not sure I agree with Volvo pinning this solely on the mate between the engine/transmission. Likely there are other contributing factors.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/vie ... hp?t=35374
I'm not sure I agree with Volvo pinning this solely on the mate between the engine/transmission. Likely there are other contributing factors.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/vie ... hp?t=35374
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allan4187
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 18 May 2014
- Year and Model: 2005 s60, 2001 s80
- Location: Ann Arbor, MI
- Has thanked: 4 times
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I agree. I'm hoping mine becomes as simple as I'm being punished for putting in an auto zone crank sensor. Still waiting on genuine one. I had to reorder. I just walked out today to try it again for the hell of it and it started again like nothing was ever wrong. It is a few degrees warmer than it was when I first tried it this morning. 17F rather than 13F....
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