2006 S60 2.5T Code: P2111 and other problems

joesvec3 · Post by **joesvec3** » 24 Jan 2018, 12:59

So, I got seduced (by the car) into buying a 2006 S60 2.5T a few weeks ago from my Volvo guy - who also sells used Volvos (I have a 98 V70 too that he has worked on).

We drove the S60 3 times for about an hour each time. When test driving the only thing I saw / noticed was It has a slight "warble" in the front end "probably a tire imbalance, or ice (it was cold and snowy and icy) if not I will fix it (this it the seller talking)" - it is still doing it - I think it is a BEARING - he is on vacation - he says he will fix everything when he gets back.

AFTER more or less falling in love with it, we bought it. It is in immaculate condition - dealer serviced for the first 100,000+ miles - one owner, everything looks good.

AFTER buying it - within the first WEEK or so we note:

* It has been VERY cold out - 0 to 30 degrees (F) - the car "lags" or "flares" when shifting from 2nd to 3rd - it only does this for a few blocks then becomes silky smooth and you can't even feel it shifting. I think on all of our test drives it was already warm. Seller says "I guess I noticed that, but they all do it, I wouldn't worry about it - we can try changing the fluid and see if that helps". This kind of freaks me out. I ordered a B4 servo cover and am planning on having him put that on too. IS THIS SOMETHING THAT WILL GET WORSE, EVENTUALLY ENDING UP MAKING THE CAR UNDRIVABLE?

* The coolant level low message came on after about a week - he says "I will fix it" - I think it is the WATER PUMP - he says the timing belt has been replaced - the car has 190,000 miles and if changed at 120K, that would leave 40-50K left in the timing belt

* The day after the coolant level low light came on, I went out to start it in the morning and it freaked out, coughed and sputtered, flashed "REDUCED ENGINE PERFORMANCE", the check engine light came on etc, etc. I turned it off, and then turned it back on - same thing. This was on a Sunday. Let it sit. Still did the same thing Monday. Got a cheap OBD checker at Wal Mart - pulled code P2111 - RESET CODES. Car started right up and ran PURRFECTLY...
Drove it around. Turned it off again and started again - got P2111 again - sputtered - RESET - ran perfectly. A few days later now it seems to work fine again. This code I understand means "ETM" - $350 + install (he said he would install if that's that it is.

This ETM or whatever thing happened after I ran the car through the car wash and then took it out on the interstate and drove at 70-80 MPH for awhile trying to figure out the "moan/whoosh/warble in the drivers side front". Car worked fine that night (a Saturday night). Then on Sunday it was in the 40's or 50's outside (up from below freezing) and it was FOGGY and everything was wet and melting. Could the dampness have something to do with it?

This is completely UNACCEPTABLE in my mind - I do not want a car that decides it needs to be in "LIMP MODE" and barely run for NO REASON. What is up with this?

Is there a software update for this? Should I just throw a new ETM into it? Should I take it to a DEALER and have them "diagnose" for $50-150? Is it something else? Will it do this again? Everything under the hood looks like it is NEW. How do I get the $&&% dealer to apply updates to the car? They said - $50 and we will plug it in and give you the FREE updates [once a year?] but not the updates related to things going on. There is one dealer 30 miles away that wants $130 and another 50 miles away that wants $50. $*$%*%(@@

Another thing going on is the GAS GAUGE - reads 0 intermittently when tank is anywhere between about 1/2 and full - there is a TSB about this - there is a software update - but I have t PAY them to "diagnose" and then pay EXTRA to get the $#$(# update???? WTF - I did not know about all of this...

ANOTHER thing is the KEYS. He only has one key. I made him get me another key (which he hasn't done yet). The freaking keys are a nightmare - $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

This is nothing like my 98 V70 which has started right up every day for 15 years. The keys for that are like $30

Should I make the guy buy it back from me or keep it? I am willing to put up with a little bit as long as I end up with something that is reliable and won't strand me or my wife out in the middle of nowhere at a scary truck stop after filling it up or something for no reason.

Thoughts? Should I not expect a car this ago to be able to drive for a few hours on the interstate and not "shut down". Mechanically it is perfect. It is all of this SOFTWARE and SENSORS freaking the computer out that appear to be the problem. I think the transmission thing has an update too? Not sure. How can I find out - the dealer won't TELL ME...
Is there some dealer that I can call to get the UPDATE HISTORY who would help me figure out what updates might be applicable to my VIN. This is all a bit much. My other choice was a Camry (should have done that but couldn't bring myself to it).

THANKS!!!!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 24 Jan 2018, 13:32

Clean the Electronic Throttle Module (ETM).
Check wiring and electrical contacts.

P2111 ECM-925C Throttle unit Signal too high
P2111 ECM-925D Throttle unit Signal too low

----------------------------------------------------
ECM-925C & ECM-925D Electronic throttle unit. Signal too high or Signal too low

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information ECM-925C & ECM-925D

M2302863 Condition
The diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored if the engine control module (ECM) registers that the movement of the throttle is impeded, or that the return spring in the throttle unit is not functioning correctly, when attempting to adapt the electronic throttle unit.

Substitute value
Depending on the fault, the engine control module (ECM) can cut off the supply to the damper motor in the electronic throttle unit. The throttle will then attempt to set itself to the return position.

Possible source

The throttle is sticking or is blocked (e.g. oil film, dust)
Contact resistance or oxidation in the terminals between the engine control module (ECM) and the electronic throttle unit
Open-circuit, short-circuit to ground or short-circuit to supply voltage in the wiring for the damper motor in the ETM.
Short-circuit to each other in the wiring for the damper motor in the electronic throttle unit
Damaged throttle unit.

Fault symptoms
Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) lit
Poor performance.

joesvec3 · Post by **joesvec3** » 24 Jan 2018, 17:42

Thanks!

Does anyone care to comment on the other issues?

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jan 2018, 19:05

Volvo is a premium brand which cosmetically holds up better than anything other than perhaps BZmW or Bemz,but, the reality is a 13 year car with 190k miles on it probably needs 2500-3000 of work that has been deferred.

If you don't want to spend that, return the car.

Many, many buyers have gone down the Siren call of a high mileage Volvo..except their siren doesn't work of course, because the module is toast.

joesvec3 · Post by **joesvec3** » 25 Jan 2018, 06:04

Right, thanks, that is what I am not interested in doing (spending $2500-3000 on a car that I paid retail book for).

The car APPEARS to have no deferred maintenance. It appears to be NEW (more or less).

What ELSE should I expect in the next few years (if I keep it) OTHER than the items listed below which I already know about and which he says he will address as part of the warranty:

* ETM probably needs to be replaced (P2111) - wiring looks new / untouched
* transmission fluid is very light brown/pink and when I checked it, it was way over "FULL" - this was with the car off and
in park, sitting on a level surface - will replace and make sure it is at correct level
* B4 servo cover update - not sure this will fix anything in an 06 - already have one waiting to be put on - can't hurt
* little rattle sometimes in front end - sway bar links (?) - will do
* bad bearing or whatever the "whirring" noise is - I will make him replace / fix
* gas gauge shuts down when full - I can live with it but would take to dealer at some point after all of above it done
* HVAC blower motor - I can deal with / replace
* serpentine belt squeaks - will replace
* brakes and rotors are new
* tires are new
* has new(er) looking real (?) Volvo CV axles

I paid RETAIL for this car and expect it to be in "CLEAN" condition - which to me means "no deferred maintenance". My other options in that price range would have included 2007 Camry's and other various Japanese cars with cigarette burns in the seats and 4 cylinder engines that self destruct OR some American made car that would rust/fall apart in a few years.

If I can get him to fix all of above - and if I then after deciding to keep it - I take it to the dealer and have them do whatever updates they can do to fix the currently KNOWN issues (gas gauge, possible transmission), then
WHAT ELSE should I expect to go wrong in the next 5 years?

I could deal with replacing the plugs and all of the coils myself - $250?
What about the RADIATOR - how can I tell if it has been replaced already - my 98 radiator failed and oil ended up in the coolant.

I am trying to decide if I should just bail and get a 2009-2010 Camry with around 1/2 the miles and a V6 (2GRFE) for twice as much (which my wife does not want), or allow him to fix everything listed and see what happens next?

Kind of am falling in love with the car despite all of above... Camry's are hideous inside and uncomfortble.

Thanks!

Post by **abscate** » 26 Jan 2018, 07:37

I bought a clean retail from Jim here and I had to put a clutch in it after 4 years. Other than that, it took oil changes for 30k

Thats a clean retail car.

IMHO, it doesn't sound like clean retail, but a neglected car. Take it back and look for another if you like the Volvo brand.

5 years/ 15k miles per year - expect a paid maintenance bill of 15-20 cents per mile, about 1/3-1/4 of that if you do all the labor yourself.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 26 Jan 2018, 14:14

Mine ('06 S60 2.5T) had a bad wobble that shook the car violently on the highway from the front/right when I bought it with 84k miles. Problem went away when I replaced the axle shaft on that side. I'm pretty sure it was carrier bearing responsible for it. I'd like to replace that bearing, clean and repack the inner/outer joints on the original shaft and put it back on the car. The aftermarket axle shaft I replaced it with is a piece of crap with slop in the inner joint.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 28 Jan 2018, 11:43

I pulled that axle shaft that I took off the car and looked at it again. Volvo sticker, OE part. But it's definitely not original to the car/has been replaced (MY06). Inner and outer joints feel awesome 110% like brand new. I would guesstimate it as being not more than 3 or 4 years old when I bought the car. Paint all intact, not even surface rust. The bearing is stiff to turn but not damaged. All it needs is to be cleaned/repacked with a high quality bearing grease. So is that the problem with these: the supplier packed these bearings with low quality grease that gets hard? The dust seal on the side is easy enough to pop out to clean and repack it, and voilà I think I should be able to remove that noisy aftermarket slop from the car and put this back on

This might be considered a low $ fix for anybody who has problems with this RH axle shaft due to the carrier bearing if you can determine that it's merely stiff to turn and the actual bearings/journals aren't damaged (no play or binding).

Napa wanted my old one / core charge. I boxed it without inspecting closely but some smart little voice in the back of my head convinced me to keep it. That little voice tends to suffer from a case of pack rat-itus. Not always a good thing, but in this case...

Edit...edit...edit...
Due to the placement/location on the vehicle I'm thinking CRC SL3121 or equivalent (synthetic marine bearing) grease is probably most appropriate for this. I would imagine this carrier bearing can get pretty darn toasty at times being at the rear of the engine compartment above the engine splash guard. Extreme heat stability that you might not think needs to be accounted for might be paramount with the splash guard installed, especially if you do a lot of low speed/stop and go commuting. This would would be a likely scenario with the immediate PO of my car where this bearing started having trouble after what looks like just a couple years: Chicago 10 miles from city center according to the title I received with the car.