buy control arms or press bushings?

850TurboTurtle · Post by **850TurboTurtle** » 13 Feb 2018, 22:25

I've heard that on the s80 you can just press in new bushings rather than buy an entire control arm assembly. Is this a good idea? I have a 2005 S80 T6 that needs the front bushings all replaced (and the upper strut mounts too).

Any links to a good tutorial on either procedure, or suggested parts? I don't drive this car hard: it's just a highway cruisemobile for the family.

850TurboTurtle · Post by **850TurboTurtle** » 13 Feb 2018, 22:30

I'm thinking it's going to be better to buy really good bushings, like Meyle, and put them in my OEM control arms, rather than buy a cheaper control arm, and I don't want to drop $300 on a set of CAs right now... But is it hard to press them out/in?

Post by **matthew1** » 13 Feb 2018, 23:15

It’s hard without a press. Do you have a press?

Post by **oragex** » 13 Feb 2018, 23:18

If you go Meyle buy only the Meyle HD (or IPD HD). Even then, it is very risky if you keep the car more than 1-2 years.

Otherwise go with Lemforder bushings from a main site Ipd, Fcp, Eeuroparts

Pressing them in is a shop job if you are not used with this. Takes 10+ ton press + adapters

850TurboTurtle · Post by **850TurboTurtle** » 15 Feb 2018, 13:39

OK, good info. Thanks everyone.

850TurboTurtle · Post by **850TurboTurtle** » 15 Feb 2018, 13:40

I don't have a press, but I have a great machine shop 8 blocks away. Affordable w integrity, and 40 years in the neighborhood.

Post by **jtp** » 15 Feb 2018, 13:42

Replacing the bushings without a press is going to be a nightmare. Id touch base with the shop you want to just replace the bushings beforehand.

Post by **mrbrian200** » 15 Feb 2018, 16:19

I had trouble with the 'IPD HD' ones. The front bush is too stiff and drags down ride quality somewhat like a poly bush that's stuck/needs new grease. And the rear bush didn't hold the position of the control arm from the get go causing noise from the LCA bouncing against the subframe. The rear bush tore up within pretty short order, within a year/10k miles like has been noted with virtually every other aftermarket bush for these cars.

The OE front bush lasts longer on most of them. The rear bush is where all the trouble is because of the geometry of the control arm itself, which there's nothing you can do about.
I would consider the rear bush a scheduled maintenance item every 50k (or less if your roads are really bad) even with OE/Lemforder. You're better off pressing in a new rear bush every so often than replacing the entire LCA which necessitates an alignment job every whip-stitch.

Post by **matthew1** » 15 Feb 2018, 16:37

edit: INCORRECT - read the next 5 or 6 posts to see why! This does not apply to S80 (or any Volvo P2). I'm leaving it in for context, otherwise the rest of this thread won't make sense.

Important: after pressing bushings in, during control arm installation, remember to align (push up with a jack, typically for us DIYers) the control arm before you tighten things down. This puts the arm at "ride height". Without doing that, you're fixing the position of the bushings at maximum wheel extension (think jumping your car, Dukes of Hazzard style, wheels hanging down waiting for the crushing, inevitable reunion with Earth), and the bushings will be constantly extremely torqued for their life. Which will be about 2 months.

To know ride height for your control arms: before you take anything apart, with the car sitting flat and level, wheels on, just like you parked her, measure their vertical distance from... anything down there... wheel well (mark the spot) for instance. Or take a photos to reference when you're re-installing the control arms.

Post by **matthew1** » 15 Feb 2018, 16:44

edit: INCORRECT - read the next 5 or 6 posts to see why! This does not apply to S80 (or any Volvo P2). I'm leaving it in for context, otherwise the rest of this thread won't make sense.

An easier (and harder) way to measure ride height is to measure the gap between the top of the wheel arch and the top of the wheel.

But then you have to mess with the heavy wheel and at least two lugs while you're trying to tighten bolts on the control arm while jacking up on the rotor while the car is on (again, for 99% of us DIYers [no lift]) jackstands.

If you have a helper, this may be best.