Removing cheapo CV joint stuck in transmission.. [850] Topic is solved

ToriWhite · Post by **ToriWhite** » 19 Mar 2018, 23:37

Does anyone have any advice for removing a poorly machined CV axel from your transmission, when it's stuck? I've hammered it in so hard I can't get it out with a crowbar, and I'm scared to try and 'commit' to hammering it the rest of the way, because I'd have to break out a sledge, and at that point I think it'd be hurting the transmission!

I have very low expectations for help in this regard, I think I've royally screwed myself here- but I'm very open to being proven wrong just this once! For everyone else.. let this be a cautionary tale ..

CV boots were torn, one completely off in a recent repair, and decided it'd be quicker / cheaper to replace the whole CV subaxel (the two joints w/ teeth that go from the transmission to the drivers front wheel) rather than buy the boot kit and replace them on the old subaxel ..

Pick up a Import Direct from oreilly ($70!!

), pull out the old one, and try and put the new one in.. doesn't fit. Closer inspection reveals the C-clip is absolute garbage .. it's too far open, the edges arent beveled, not perfectly circle.. this should have been a big enough red flag to stop- instead, I swap the old C clip onto the new axel and try and plug it into the transmission. It doesn't want to go in.. so I give it some 'gentle' hammering with a rubber mallet. It goes almost all the way in, stopping 0.5 inch off and only then I realize how much hammering I've just put into it.. waay too much. I fruitlessly try my hand at crowbarring it back out.. nothin.

Did some reading, turns out these Import Direct's aren't actually that well machined.. and so I find myself in the position where i've forced a wrong fitting axel into my transmission.. and its absolutely stuck! It wont go out, and I'm scared to hit it harder to go in on the off chance I'll need to eventually take it out again.. Is there any tool I'm over looking that can help me pull this out? I'm at a complete loss, I feel like I just spent $70 to ruin my transmission, and even after just pulling the thing down to replace the clutch the same weekend!

Any advice helps!

Post by **oragex** » 20 Mar 2018, 01:13

Can you just leave the CV joint housing it there and attach a new axle to it then secure the boot with a new oeticker clamp?

Post by **nickelghandi** » 20 Mar 2018, 07:01

This is a long shot, but maybe some computer cleaner? It is the same stuff as R-134 refrigerant and when the can is held upside down it comes out as very cold liquid tetrafluoroethane. It boils at -15 degrees Fahrenheit and it isn't terribly flammable although open flame should be avoided and you should have decent venthilation.

I have used it to free stuck nuts and bolts before and it works pretty well at breaking the bonds loose. It might be just cold enough to shrink the c-clip and/or axle so you can work it out.

Do you have anything you can clamp onto the axle to try and pound it out? I assume you have tried all manner of wiggling to make sure it isn't wedged in there somehow? I definitely would not try pounding it in any further.

You are quite literally stuck in this situation.

Post by **erikv11** » 20 Mar 2018, 07:36

Try a wedge shaped piece of wood, hammer it in from the bottom. Or a chisel but be careful about the trans case as the chisel is narrow by definition.

Post by **scot850** » 20 Mar 2018, 14:10

Were you swapping the axle out and the 'new' axle has jammed on the way in or has it been in there for a while? When you installed it did you check the number of splines as there are a couple of different versions?

Neil.

ToriWhite · Post by **ToriWhite** » 20 Mar 2018, 17:07

Counted the splines, and they're the same-

What I ended up doing is welding up a gross approximation of a slide hammer, (Two long poles connected with a plate for hammering on one end, and two protusions on the other- which I put behind the lip of the axel and pipe-clamped them down tight) and it tapped out without having to put in nearly any force, all it took was getting a good grip!

Going to try to return the abomination to oreillies, and then order some new boots, or a new axel from a reputable dealer..

Post by **oragex** » 20 Mar 2018, 17:09

Even a used but original not refurbished one from the junk yards without play in the CV joints is a good idea.

Post by **erikv11** » 20 Mar 2018, 17:46

I agree, a junkyard axle is a far better idea for the long run.

Next time consider trying the chisel, no welding and sounds like it may have worked very well.

Post by **FLXC90** » 20 Mar 2018, 18:03

Glad to see you got away with it. Awesome McGyver on the slide hammer. It's just the result of the jealous karma from all the automatics out there!

Post by **erikv11** » 20 Mar 2018, 18:12

And I did mean to say that too: clever solution, well done.