1998 V70 and Colorado Emissions / Keep or Sell Nordic Thunder? Topic is solved

bubbeck · Post by **bubbeck** » 06 Apr 2018, 15:40

Hey folks!

I'm planning to move from Massachusetts to Boulder, CO over the summer, and am trying to decide whether or not to bring by beloved 1998 V70XC (no longer AWD) wagon a.k.a Nordic Thunder with 228k miles on it with me. I've had fun putting a bunch of work into it, but rationally realize it might not be worth driving across the country. Had a couple questions for you fine folks:

1) Anybody have a high mileage, P80 volvo have any trouble getting inspected in Colorado? From what I understand there's a tailpipe emissions test, which I've never had to do in MA. My CEL is on (P0440) but from what I understand, EVAP won't register on tailpipe emissions. I should probably replace some vacuum lines but how likely am I to fail/ what should I check to know? Not being able to pass emissions would definitely be a hard no in terms of keeping it.

2) How many miles can you get out of these wagons? I have a pipe dream of getting to 300k but how likely is that?

3) What would you do? My local mechanic seems to think the cars in rough shape, but I don't really agree. The most obvious bad thing is a minor oil leak (can go several tanks of gas without having to add oil) but I'm pretty sure its the oil cooler hoses, and that seems like a doable and inexpensive (though PITA) repair. To get to Stage 0, all I have left is the fuel filter, vacuum lines, maybe fix EVAP, and replacing coolant lines. For reference, here's the maintenance log https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing I've been keeping.

Thanks in advance!

Post by **abscate** » 06 Apr 2018, 16:35

Double check your county of residence so that you understand emissions requirements.

Any car that is paid off and known to you beats a new payment or an unknown

Evap is an easy fix, if OBD IS not triggering g codes you will pass a tailpipe test

Volvo’s roll well past 300k

callahanoffroad · Post by **callahanoffroad** » 07 Apr 2018, 21:06

I used to live in Boulder. My 86 land cruiser with a 2 barrel carb and a removed emissions system passed emissions. My 96 Volvo 850 never had problems passing either. All the way to 280,000 miles.

Your car is OBD2, they're going to hook it up to the scanner, search for codes and if there are codes it'll fail. They may also run it on the rolling road with the tail pipe being tested as well. It seems scary but it isn't. All major cities do emissions testing. If it passes in Boston it'll pass in Boulder.

As to how long you should keep it, I drove my last wagon till it was unreasonable to repair and maintain. Ie when the head needed to be rebuilt at 280,000 miles and it needed a new steering rack and and and and. It was about $4k worth of repairs and there was no way I was getting that back if I got in an accident. I was aiming for 500,000 miles on that car.

There's a good shop called Sweedish Motors in Boulder, they do good work. Just be warned everything in Colorado is expensive. Except locally produced milk. (Strange right?)

I moved across the country in high mileage vehicles many times. 96 Buick LeSabre, 86 toyota land cruiser, 96 Volvo 850, 91 GMC sierra 2500. I only had issues once and that was in the GMC. Honestly if your car runs fine around town it'll be fine. Highway mileage is some of the easiest that your car will do. Everyone is always so scared of driving long distance! Dont be like everyone, you own a Volvo!

Enjoy the 8 hours of western Kansas and eastern Colorado!

Hope that helps!

Post by **matthew1** » 07 Apr 2018, 21:34

Bring it. They let one fail code go. I had a recurring P0440 in my 850 and passed. This was about 2 years ago.

Just clear it so there’s no active CE light.

Sorry if there’s something I didn’t read that makes what I wrote sound dumb. I didn’t read all the posts. I’m on mobile at a restaurant.

Post by **abscate** » 08 Apr 2018, 06:57

I’m guessing you can clear it but have to drive 50-100 miles to have most monitors go ready, except EVAP?

Most everyone here back east has punted tailpipe testing since the car OBD2 is better at picking up faults than sniffing, and cheaper

callahanoffroad · Post by **callahanoffroad** » 08 Apr 2018, 07:34

abscate wrote: ↑08 Apr 2018, 06:57 I’m guessing you can clear it but have to drive 50-100 miles to have most monitors go ready, except EVAP?

Most everyone here back east has punted tailpipe testing since the car OBD2 is better at picking up faults than sniffing, and cheaper

Yeah that's how it is in STL also. Pre obd2 doesn't even get tested.

Post by **sleddriver** » 08 Apr 2018, 11:10

We have about the same mileage. No rust issues here. The county I live in is uber-anal about all things enviro. With a 98, all monitors don't need to be 'ready' before an inspection. The CEL is easily turned off by disconnecting the battery for awhile. The sled's never failed a 'snif' test when done. Not even close. However, usually they hook the scanner up to the OBDII connector instead.

I'm planning on passing 300K with no issues. The engine runs like a sewing machine when well cared for.

Keep her! She's a known quantity and you've obviously taken good care of her. Well done!

bubbeck · Post by **bubbeck** » 25 Apr 2018, 11:58

Man you all are a bunch of enablers, telling me what I want to hear!

Couple other questions:

1) How terrible an idea is it for me to tow a moving trailer with my car ~2000 flat-ish highway miles? It seems cheaper than getting a truck, but my girlfriend thinks the ol' wagon will give up the ghost if we do that.

2) Maybe a tangent, but I removed the driveshaft because it was worn out and super noisy, and was contemplating putting a rebuilt one back in. Is there anything I should look at/ other parts that might be worn out (angle gear?) that might not make it worth it to do this? Local pickup

on a Colorado Driveshaft for me is ~$350

Thanks!

Post by **scot850** » 25 Apr 2018, 14:25

Grab the rear shaft of the angle gear and try moving it sideways. If little or no movement then that is ok. If no angle gear oil leaks then another plus, but I would change the oil. You will need to suck the oil out and re-fill.

If the prop-shaft has been re-built then no worries there. Just make sure you have the shaft bolts (x 12) and the center support mount bracket (x 4).

Rear end. Grab the front flange to the VC unit and turn it an feel for roughness in the front bearing. It can be replaced. Also check the front VC casing bush.

Other then that check for leak on the rear diff seals. Even if you don't replace the prop-shaft these will still need to be maintained and change te oil there too. Again a suck/drain and fill.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 25 Apr 2018, 15:21

1) How terrible an idea is it for me to tow a moving trailer with my car ~2000 flat-ish highway miles? It seems cheaper than getting a truck, but my girlfriend thinks the ol' wagon will give up the ghost if we do that.

If its laden weight (trailer plus load) is <2000 pounds you won't even notice it, as long as you get the tongue weight up to 200 pounds or so. Gas mileage will drop to about 20 mpg

Do not drive over 60 mph.