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V50 T5 - New to me with PCV and code issues

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials devoted to the second generation C70, S40 and V50 Volvos -- awkwardly model year 2004 ½ onwards -- plus where to go for advice and discussion on Volvo's sporty C30 Coupe powered by Volvo's ubiquitous inline 5-cylinder power plant.
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res94025
Posts: 2
Joined: 22 April 2018
Year and Model: 2006 V50 T5 AWD
Location: NV

V50 T5 - New to me with PCV and code issues

Post by res94025 »

Would love to get some thoughts on issues with a 2006 V50 T5 AWD that I just picked up. Think I got a great deal on the car but took a chance knowing it had some issues. When I purchased the car it had an obvious oil leak that the PO said was due to oil leaking from the filler cap and the dipstick tube. I immediately thought PCV and factored the repair into the offer. It also had a CEL but I didn’t have a code reader with me so I took the chance and paid the money. Got the car home and did a compression check. 125-120-120-120-125 so the motor is a little tired but I’m feeling good that the pressures are all within 10% and all the spark plugs were clean. Pulled the codes and found P0101 (MAF), P0420 (cat conv below threshold), and P0088 (fuel rail pressure high).

Here is where I’d appreciate thoughts and feedback: from the physical condition and symptoms I’m pretty confident in my initial assessment that the PCV/oil trap is the primary issue with the car, and I’ve ordered the kit to repair/replace. My thought is to complete this repair, clean the MAF and pull the codes again to determine next steps as I have seen instances of the 0420 cat code being a result of the PCV issue. Curious in general if this seems reasonable or if that combination of codes makes anyone think I might be facing some other issue to consider first. Also, when it comes to the PCV repair I’ve seen some state that the fuel rail and intake manifold need to be removed while others claim the PCV/oil trap can be removed by repositioning the air box to the side and accessing it from top and bottom - but that may or may not be exclusive to the 2.4 engine. Anyone here have detail specific to the easiest process specific to the T5? Also, suspecting that there may be a fair amount of crud in the motor as a result of the bad PCV, what is the best process to flush the motor once it is replaced?

All thoughts and help is MUCH appreciated. This is a sweet little car in great physical condition and with lots of documented recent services (timing belt, water pump, cam sensors, brakes, shocks, struts, tires, coils, plugs) and my fingers are crossed that the initial $500 investment pays off in a reliable ride for a couple of years

res94025
Posts: 2
Joined: 22 April 2018
Year and Model: 2006 V50 T5 AWD
Location: NV

Post by res94025 »

I should mention - the car does not have an audible whistle or whine that is typically associated with the PCV failure and the motor is running very smoothly. Not sure if the clogged PCV always creates the whistle or if that only occurs if the membrane is ruptured. Thinking mine may be clogged enough to raise the pressure and create the oil leaks but without a ruptured membrane (yet). Is that a reasonable thought?

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