2000 V40 non-start mystery
2000 V40 non-start mystery
So, the car runs like a top, 80 mile round-trip commutes for weeks on end. The other night I went to start it for a quick ride up to the store and it struggled to start, caught a bit and then died. When I tried re-starting the key does not seem to go all the way round to the start position. I hear the fuel pump engage, all lights on the dash work, but nothing in terms of starting......what the hell? Key problem? Immobilizer? Demons? I'm at a loss. All the fuses look good, battery is new and when it was running it ran great! Not anymore. Any advice?
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emtor
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 23 January 2017
- Year and Model: 2002 V40
- Location: Norway
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WD40 inside the key hole,-massage it a bit with the key. If the key goes all the way, then that's one problem out of the equation.
However, the ignition key / lock is most likely not the problem since it's cranking.
"jefe" mentions the gear knob. -Massage that as well.
A crank,-no start situation may have several causes. -No fuel or no spark or both,- or the Idle Air Control Valve does not work.
To rule out the IACV try starting by depressing the accelerator pedal slightly while cranking. If it starts but dies when taking the foot off the pedal the IACV is the problem. Then remove the IACV and clean it with carb cleaner or some other solvent. Also check for voltage at the contact, and if there is voltage at the contact the motor inside the IACV may have given up. Supply the IACV with power directly from the battery to see if the valve moves or not.
If the engine still won't start despite depressing the pedal move on to the next stage . . .
Fuel pump is running, you already heard that, so most likely it's in good order.
Then, check for fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Locate the schrader valve sitting at the end of the rail, depress the needle. It should squirt gas, and if it does, the Fuel Pressure Regulator is OK,-or maybe, since you now know you have pressure, but not how much.
If no pressure, then pull off the short hose going from the FPR to the intake manifold. If you see the smallest amount of gas here the diaphragm has ruptured and you need to replace the FPR.
If idle control and fuel seems OK, then move on to spark.
Pull one spark plug and insert it into the cable, ground it to the engine and let someone attempt to start.
If there is spark, well, then there's probably spark on the other plugs as well, in which case I would have started to believe in your theory regarding demons.
If no spark, check wether all contacts are firmly seated. If they are, I would have suspected the crank / cam sensors.
At this stage you'd love to have an oscilloscope to check the waveforms from these sensors.
Since you probably don't have one, a decent repair shop will.
However, the ignition key / lock is most likely not the problem since it's cranking.
"jefe" mentions the gear knob. -Massage that as well.
A crank,-no start situation may have several causes. -No fuel or no spark or both,- or the Idle Air Control Valve does not work.
To rule out the IACV try starting by depressing the accelerator pedal slightly while cranking. If it starts but dies when taking the foot off the pedal the IACV is the problem. Then remove the IACV and clean it with carb cleaner or some other solvent. Also check for voltage at the contact, and if there is voltage at the contact the motor inside the IACV may have given up. Supply the IACV with power directly from the battery to see if the valve moves or not.
If the engine still won't start despite depressing the pedal move on to the next stage . . .
Fuel pump is running, you already heard that, so most likely it's in good order.
Then, check for fuel pressure in the fuel rail. Locate the schrader valve sitting at the end of the rail, depress the needle. It should squirt gas, and if it does, the Fuel Pressure Regulator is OK,-or maybe, since you now know you have pressure, but not how much.
If no pressure, then pull off the short hose going from the FPR to the intake manifold. If you see the smallest amount of gas here the diaphragm has ruptured and you need to replace the FPR.
If idle control and fuel seems OK, then move on to spark.
Pull one spark plug and insert it into the cable, ground it to the engine and let someone attempt to start.
If there is spark, well, then there's probably spark on the other plugs as well, in which case I would have started to believe in your theory regarding demons.
If no spark, check wether all contacts are firmly seated. If they are, I would have suspected the crank / cam sensors.
At this stage you'd love to have an oscilloscope to check the waveforms from these sensors.
Since you probably don't have one, a decent repair shop will.
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emtor
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 23 January 2017
- Year and Model: 2002 V40
- Location: Norway
- Been thanked: 1 time
Best scenario - lack of lubrication.
Worst scenario - lock is shot.
On my V40 I had trouble inserting the key, and turning it felt like turning a rusted bolt. WD 40 fixed it.
Try the cheapest solution first,-lubrication. Also try to wiggle the key while turning it.
Oh,-make sure the steering wheel is not in the locked position. -Wiggle the steering wheel too.
Worst scenario - lock is shot.
On my V40 I had trouble inserting the key, and turning it felt like turning a rusted bolt. WD 40 fixed it.
Try the cheapest solution first,-lubrication. Also try to wiggle the key while turning it.
Oh,-make sure the steering wheel is not in the locked position. -Wiggle the steering wheel too.
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difflock54
- Posts: 471
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- Year and Model: V40 Nordic 2002
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PNP switch problem.
With foot on the brake pedal, paddle the shifter several times thru all the gear positions then return it to Park and try again.
Does the dash display go out when you attempt to start up?
With foot on the brake pedal, paddle the shifter several times thru all the gear positions then return it to Park and try again.
Does the dash display go out when you attempt to start up?
Thanks for all the replies. I don't believe it is a PNP issue, that item is a new Volvo part and have not had an issue. I'm thinking it is something to do with the immobilizer, but doing the lock/un-lock routine with the fob has not made any difference. Although the key doesn't seem to reach the start position, it's not hard to turn and is inserting fully. I lubed the ignition switch, but still nothing.
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- RickHaleParker
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It could be the starter relay.
1. Locate the starter relay.
2. Swamp it with another of the same part number. (There should be a second one in the fuse box ... A/C, horn ..ect.)
3. Try cranking the engine.
If it cranks you located the problem.
1. Locate the starter relay.
2. Swamp it with another of the same part number. (There should be a second one in the fuse box ... A/C, horn ..ect.)
3. Try cranking the engine.
If it cranks you located the problem.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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emtor
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 23 January 2017
- Year and Model: 2002 V40
- Location: Norway
- Been thanked: 1 time
If swapping relays doesn't help try removing the ignition switch or at least try to get access to the contact points. Find the two contact points that get connected when in position III and short them.
If the engine cranks then you've got a mechanical issue with the ignition switch.
White wire comes from +12 volts, green wire goes to starter relay (V40 2002 1.8 liter petrol engine).
If the engine cranks then you've got a mechanical issue with the ignition switch.
White wire comes from +12 volts, green wire goes to starter relay (V40 2002 1.8 liter petrol engine).
I finally gave up and had the car towed to the local Indy Volvo shop. It turned out to be a mechanical failure inside the key switch. I appreciate all the efforts to help me diagnose the problem. I hope to have the car back in a few days.
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