1985 240 DL stalls out from a stop when accelerating
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brickcanic
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 16 October 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location:
1985 240 DL stalls out from a stop when accelerating
Stalls out from a stop when accelerating after vehicle is warm. Doesn't start again until a minute or so later. Happens once every 2 days or so. On a guess, shop replaced fuel pump relay 4 months ago but still have the problem.
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wojeepster
- Posts: 259
- Joined: 15 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Hendersonville, NC
check the thermostat in your airbox if it is stuck so that you are feeding the air mass sensor HOT air all the time it could be that your air mass sensor is bad. If car will not start unplug air mass sensor and see if it starts. This puts the computer in limp home mode. If it starts plug up again, if it does not start probably air mass sensor.
If it happens at particular throttle settings it may be a bad throttle position sensor (I think this is unlikely because it would be bad all the time not just when hot)
Does it happen only when you have 1/2 tank of gas or less? If so consider the intank prepump to be the culprit.
As with any car that does not start check for spark and check for gas. When the problem occurs do you have 12v at the coil with the key on? You need pressure gage to measure pressure and a logic probe to check for pulse when cranking at the injectors. Let us know what you find.
If it happens at particular throttle settings it may be a bad throttle position sensor (I think this is unlikely because it would be bad all the time not just when hot)
Does it happen only when you have 1/2 tank of gas or less? If so consider the intank prepump to be the culprit.
As with any car that does not start check for spark and check for gas. When the problem occurs do you have 12v at the coil with the key on? You need pressure gage to measure pressure and a logic probe to check for pulse when cranking at the injectors. Let us know what you find.
OK
Unplug and re-plug the AMM only with ignition off.
If it runs better with AMM unplugged then AMM is bad as wojeepster wrote.
Other things to check
25A blade fuse in white holder behind battery, on fender wall. Keep holder in place while pulling fuse or the whole thing will come up off the mounting rail. Fuse contacts get dirty; often just wiggling it in the holder helps. Clean the contact blades. If you decide to replace the holder be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable first. Otherwise you'll ground a hot fuse wire on the fender wall, guaranteed. POP!
Fuel pump relay(s). Earlier cars have two on driver's side kick panel, later have one on passenger kick panel. Failure is usually due to cracked solder joints which can be fixed by reflowing the solder, or replace the relay. Or failed due to water leaks.
Intake leaks. The flex hose into the throttle body likes to get worn/cracked, especially on the underside where you can't see it. You have to remove it to examine. A few hose clamps to loosen, that's all.
Unplug and re-plug the AMM only with ignition off.
If it runs better with AMM unplugged then AMM is bad as wojeepster wrote.
Other things to check
25A blade fuse in white holder behind battery, on fender wall. Keep holder in place while pulling fuse or the whole thing will come up off the mounting rail. Fuse contacts get dirty; often just wiggling it in the holder helps. Clean the contact blades. If you decide to replace the holder be sure to disconnect the battery ground cable first. Otherwise you'll ground a hot fuse wire on the fender wall, guaranteed. POP!
Fuel pump relay(s). Earlier cars have two on driver's side kick panel, later have one on passenger kick panel. Failure is usually due to cracked solder joints which can be fixed by reflowing the solder, or replace the relay. Or failed due to water leaks.
Intake leaks. The flex hose into the throttle body likes to get worn/cracked, especially on the underside where you can't see it. You have to remove it to examine. A few hose clamps to loosen, that's all.
'89 245 NA, 951 ECU, open-front airbox, E-fan, 205/65-15's on steelies, IPD sways, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors.
Wifemobile: '89 245 NA stock.
Spare: 90 244 NA, runs.
Wifemobile: '89 245 NA stock.
Spare: 90 244 NA, runs.
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brickcanic
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 16 October 2006
- Year and Model:
- Location:
Thanks for your quick responses and advice. Sorry I didn't get back to you both sooner but I'm having multiple issues with my "brick" right now. Just replaced the camshaft oilseal and a ruined timing belt and now discover I still have oil leaks. Also leaking ATF from steering pump reservoir but solved that with double clamps.
Anyway, since my post on Oct. 16th, I've stalled once again. Yes, the gas tank was very low, only a couple of gallons in it, so I'll keep an eye on that. Haven't done the other tests and checks you suggest yet but here's some more info: Last April my Volvo was declared a "Gross polluter" here in Santa Rosa, California. It failed the NO (nitrous oxide) SMOG test. My SMOG mechanic "inspected air induction system and found to be open to hot air draw at all times...found thermo bulb defective" and replaced. Car then passed. Is this the "airbox thermostat" you mention wojeepster? And is it located in the hose between the airfilter compartment and the LH-Jetronic system in that hardware called the AMM? Brucepick, it may be a fuse problem like you suggest. My onboard clock likes to quit running during cold weather but kicks in as soon as the car runs! Would that be connected to the "25A blade fuse" you mention? Also the mechanic who replaced the fuelpump relay said it was behind the glove box on the passenger side.
I'll keep you posted as I progress. Usually I only have access to the Internet Saturdays through Tuesdays so if you don't hear from me right away, hang on.
I much appreciate your advice.
Thanks,
Brickcanic
PS: I'm not sure how to send this message to both of you individually? Is that what the "quote" button is for?
Anyway, since my post on Oct. 16th, I've stalled once again. Yes, the gas tank was very low, only a couple of gallons in it, so I'll keep an eye on that. Haven't done the other tests and checks you suggest yet but here's some more info: Last April my Volvo was declared a "Gross polluter" here in Santa Rosa, California. It failed the NO (nitrous oxide) SMOG test. My SMOG mechanic "inspected air induction system and found to be open to hot air draw at all times...found thermo bulb defective" and replaced. Car then passed. Is this the "airbox thermostat" you mention wojeepster? And is it located in the hose between the airfilter compartment and the LH-Jetronic system in that hardware called the AMM? Brucepick, it may be a fuse problem like you suggest. My onboard clock likes to quit running during cold weather but kicks in as soon as the car runs! Would that be connected to the "25A blade fuse" you mention? Also the mechanic who replaced the fuelpump relay said it was behind the glove box on the passenger side.
I'll keep you posted as I progress. Usually I only have access to the Internet Saturdays through Tuesdays so if you don't hear from me right away, hang on.
I much appreciate your advice.
Thanks,
Brickcanic
PS: I'm not sure how to send this message to both of you individually? Is that what the "quote" button is for?
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wojeepster
- Posts: 259
- Joined: 15 November 2005
- Year and Model:
- Location: Hendersonville, NC
I think the thermo bulb is the air box thermostat.
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