Another P2 question for you guys....

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 22 Jul 2018, 08:11

OK, yesterday I had an interesting phenomenon occur as I was sitting at a red light with the car in drive and my foot on the brake pedal. The engine went from a resting/idling 750 rpm's to around 3,000 rpm's and I felt I had to throw it into neutral. I hit the gas pedal in neutral and it cam back down. Any thoughts on what would cause this?

I plan to change the oil for the first time very soon and maybe the spark plugs too.

Georgeandkira · Post by **Georgeandkira** » 22 Jul 2018, 09:03

Good morning,

Are you 100% certain the side of your foot didn't hit the gas pedal? That has happened to me a few times.
Since you're new to the P2 I respectfully suggest a few things before you have at the oil and plugs.

1) Change plugs on a cold engine only.

2) Use ONLY the 5 pack of Volvo, plugs for your non-turbo. The part number was 8642660 when I did mine 15 months ago.

3) Have compressed air or a narrow snouted vacuum cleaner handy to clear the spark plug well after you remove the coil and before you remove the spark plug.

4) Nobody enjoys the squeaky grunts these STEEL spark plugs make as they unscrew from the ALUMINUM head.
I carefully (accurately) drip a few drops of thin oil aside each plug before I break 'em loose then give the plug as much back 'n forth working as needed to make the extraction process smooth and quiet.
If anyone thinks this is excessive caution, they can do whatever they want to their own vehicle.

5) Get some dielectric grease and use it on the coils' boot (where the plug goes into it) and around the o ring which seals the top of the coil. That second part aids in future removals.

6) I work with the understanding that our NA plugs are good for 60,000 miles. I got my car from a dealer with 70,000 miles and the plugs hadn't been changed. I have never felt a difference in performance after a plug change in one of my white engines and you likely won't unless the plugs are real old.

7) Use FCPeuroparts (the old FCPGroton) or eEuroparts to procure parts. Through either it'll be easier to obtain Mahle or MANN filters as well as the plugs.
Most local parts places won't have our element and the few which do overcharge for them. The reasonable prices charged by the 2 places I mentioned basically cancel out the shipping charges. FCP's shipping is free on orders over $49.
Also these places offer kits (both oil change and tune up) at further savings.

7a.) Here's an example of an oil change kit:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... service1v2
It may be a tad pricey but you're saved searching about for the specific bits and the oil is of high quality.
I use Mobil1 0W-40 European Formula. Gallons are cheap at a Walmart. You need to buy 2 and you'll have some left over.

Post by **oragex** » 22 Jul 2018, 09:26

Assuming the car is a 2002, I would look first into the throttle body, google up about the ETM https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo ... ule-fiasco

dj_v70 · Post by **dj_v70** » 22 Jul 2018, 15:08

I have had the same problem on my 2003. This happened once in 5 years, 50k miles. It never repeated. It definitely wasn’t my foot or floor mat. I didn’t do anything to try to fix it because I didn’t know where to start. I probably should have cleaned ETM. But, if I did, I would have thought that that was what fixed it;).

Post by **abscate** » 22 Jul 2018, 17:24

You can pop the snorkel off the throttle body on an NA in 5 minutes and see how dirty it is. Clean with hexanes, keeping liquid away from now the plate pivot.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 23 Jul 2018, 00:11

Have the codes pulled and report back. Even though the CEL didn't light you still may have some codes stored.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 23 Jul 2018, 07:39

Not all code readers can read pending codes ....

Mr. Detail · Post by **Mr. Detail** » 23 Jul 2018, 08:05

Thanks guys. Yes, that P/N 8642660 are the exact plugs I have ready to go.
What is considered "thin oil"? Like a can of 3 in 1 oil?

Concerning the cleaning of the throttle body, what is "Clean with hexanes"? Sorry I am new to some of these parts. I want to do it myself but need some wisdom from you guys.

Post by **Rattnalle** » 23 Jul 2018, 08:27

Brake cleaner and the like works well. Spray on the rag then clean. Don't spray into the ETM.

I've never used oil on my spark plugs and they've never felt bad neither going in or out.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 23 Jul 2018, 08:51

For the spark plugs, I always used "anti-seize" grease on the spark plug threads when I do a change out. I believe it helps when you take them out at the next replacement, and especially with an aluminum head.

Good luck.