Dash dies after 10-15 minutes driving

Iain73 · Post by **Iain73** » 04 Aug 2018, 10:58

Hi,

I am driving a 2007 XC90 (135,000km on the clock). I had an initial problem with an erratic left signal. The indicator stalk (at the time of purchase) was held together with black tape. So I replaced the stalk and the problem was fixed for a while. The left mirror was damaged after a fight with the driveway gate. INdicator housing damage - and bulb does not work.

I live in Qatar and so my wife and daughter escape the 45C heat in the summer. I use a company 4x4 for work, so take the XC90 out at weekends to give it a run.

Last weekend the remote lock wouldn't work when I tried to unlock it. So i used the key (manually). The car started no problems.

About 10 minutes into the journey the nstrument cluster died and all dials dropped to zero. The fan continued to operate but the A/C wasn't working (so just blowing warm air - did i mention the 45C heat?). All electric windows ceased to work at same time. cabin lights were also off - but the glove compartment light was on. The hazard/indicators worked (although nothing on the instrument cluster).

I took car back home parked up and left it to rest - while i did some online research. A couple days later I decided to take car out again ... to drive to Volvo dealer to see if there were any errors on the computer diagnosis. The car unlocked with the remote key fob and started no problems. This time it was about 15 minutes into the journey that the instrument cluster etc. died. The Volvo dealer said to leave it in for tests ... which always scares me as you pay for the trial and error. I drive the car home (did I mention the 45C with no a/c ?) and parked the car up. All fuses tested an d working on. When went out a few hours later I say a red glow in the garage. The brake lights were still on - but key was not in the car... (another sign ?!?). I put the key in and whilst the car didn't start, the lights went out. The battery is now dead.

There are similar issues on the forum but some of then are about the car actually dying (not just the instrument cluster).

Hence new more specific post to this forum.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 04 Aug 2018, 12:03

Wow you have a platter full of potential issues. They could be related or they could be separate.

1) Turn stalk; 2: Left mirror; 3) Remote; 4) A/C; 5) Door Module; 6) Coolant fan; 7) Instrument Cluster;

CEM and 9) Battery.

I would disconnect the battery (negative first) and hook it up to a charger until fully charged. You can leave it in the car. Then once it is fully charged reconnect and see how much current is being drained, just sitting, it should be something like 50mah if I recall. Any more than that you have a battery draw. See last item for more.

Easy things first - the turn stalk if you did everything correct should not be an issue. If you damaged some wires or pins this could be a source of a short and battery drain.

The left mirror - I don't know how bad the damage is here - but like the turn signal stalk you could have a wire that is damaged and is shorting, but not blowing a fuse.

These two items may be causing a drain on the battery and causing the battery then CEM to have issues. Although your fuses are fine the system may be pulling too much current. Checking the draw will tell you.

Remote - how are the batteries in the Remote? Put in a fresh one to eliminate the obvious. Otherwise this could be tied into the other issues.

A/C - does the A/C work at all? How has it been functioning prior to the current issues?

Door Module - this could be bad or it could be part of the rest of the problem. Doing current draw will give you some information. If the module is bad it will not function, but shouldn't be pulling current.

Coolant fan - this may be bad and pulling too much current. Do the fans spin freely? Does it turn on when the A/C is turned on?

Instrument cluster - these are known to fail and heat is an issue. For your year generally this issue has been resolved.

CEM - I think this is where you issues are coming from. All of your symptoms go through the CEM. CEMs can fail and this is heat related. Again for your year this problem was suppose to be solved - I would look at the relays and shunts. Check current draw. Look for signs of water damage - touch it to see if it is warm.

Look up how to access the built in diagnostic system (I think it is still there for your car) and see what the on-board diagnostic system shows as communication faults. The dealer will be able to use their equipment to figure this one out.

Battery - everything could be a bad or failing battery. You need to fully charge yours and make sure it is still good. On many modern cars if the battery is bad the entire electrical system starts to have issues. Maybe start here.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 04 Aug 2018, 12:07

The one thing all this has in common is the CEM (Central Electronic Module).

If your going to do your own work, a Volvo DiCE clone (Diagnostic Communication Equipment) would be a good investment. We can show you where to get the software and how to install it.

Diagnosis by symptoms does not work well on modern cars, expectedly with the electronics which don't tell you where it hurts.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 04 Aug 2018, 23:13

Watch this video - maybe running the test will tell you something. I mentioned this built in internal test in my prior post. It is free and a great place to start especially with your car's issues.

Post by **ggleavitt** » 05 Aug 2018, 11:52

It's a 2007 in a high heat/ high humidity area, right off the get-go.

Original battery? Is it the 6xxCCA H8/48 or the larger 8xxCCA H9/49 ? Both will fit (side bracket gets moved). If it's original, there should be a datecode stamped on one of the battery terminals.

Engine on this car (especially since it's an international) please. Can put it in your signature so folks don't have to ask.

Iain73 · Post by **Iain73** » 08 Aug 2018, 13:22

Thanks for the replies guys.

ggleavit - signature updated. Battery is official Volvo "Flooded & Sealed" Battery. 12V 70Ah 600A EN. 30659798 V022A.

SuperHerman - thanks for the video. Unfortunately I was not able to try this out. I got the battery charged and on connection, the rear tailgate interior lights came on - I thought happy thoughts. When I turned the ignition, the engine started but alas ... no instrument cluster or internal lights. The indicators both worked this time though. The fan worked (no a/c). The CD multichanger started to make noise - like loading CDs.

RickHaleParker - I will look into Volvo DiCE clone. I am going back to UK tomorrow for a couple of weeks - is there a specific type of DiCE clone that I should look for? I have seen some on ebay but not sure if there are different types of connections or software?

IS it worth me trying to get a replacement CEM or instrument cluster when I am in UK - right hand drive and fit it into my car in Qatar (left hand drive).

Post by **oragex** » 08 Aug 2018, 13:34

Iain73 wrote: ↑04 Aug 2018, 10:58When went out a few hours later I say a red glow in the garage. The brake lights were still on - but key was not in the car... (another sign ?!?). I put the key in and whilst the car didn't start, the lights went out. The battery is now dead.

I haven't read the comments above, so sorry if it's already been said, but these lines seem to be the more important to me.

Try checking the brake pedal switch www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDxPQlK_WVY

There may be an electrical glitch that would affect the car systems (which are connected through canbus), and that would cause all the electrical behavior you noticed.

The first thing to do is to test the battery - don't rush into replacing it as the new one may get worn as well. See if it has decent voltage after driving, then again next morning. This is a long-ish video showing how to properly test the charging system www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gc1SCGLfCk

Then also inspect the alternator. Am am intrigued that the a/c compressor stopped working... seems like indeed something gets several systems/modules to lack electric power. A problematic alternator can often times cause weird reactions, but don't blame it right away, test first, it's easy to test it properly. Maybe also get one of these, it's cheap and decent to measure the alternator in real time www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVDHzTkjHlc

If everything checks fine, measure for parasitic drain (see the video)

After these, I would look into the car's electronic modules and wires (some wire looms can crack, for example near the trunk lid). The brake lights I believe are part of the REM - rear electric module, located inside the trunk. Sometimes it can get issues.

It's indeed the kind of thing to 'take slowly' and try to find by yourself or by someone who is really good into these, who takes the time and is very hones. The main dealer may not always have the patience, and may charge or replace parts without finding the actual issue (not all of them, but quite a few of them)

Post by **ggleavitt** » 08 Aug 2018, 14:35

Then it's the smaller battery. Simply out of curiosity, the next time you're in the back, see if there is a stamped date/code on one of the battery posts.

Decent link https://forums.swedespeed.com/forumdisp ... Management for DICE clones and VIDA , not sure how recent it is for DICE clone choices but wouldn't hurt to have a look.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 08 Aug 2018, 15:06

Is there a specific type of DiCE clone that I should look for?

Get one off eBay, go for a full chip version, stay way from the lowest sellers. Do not use the software that comes with it, go here and get the Russian Distro 2014D_RePack and the 2099 patch.

Iain73 · Post by **Iain73** » 19 Nov 2018, 11:00

OK … (belated) update.
I got the problem fixed (but got a new one - more about that later).
The problem was due to a faulty connection in the cabin light console at the front of the car. I had previously gotten the inside roof lining recovered as it was sagging down. Took it to a local upholsterer (who charged about 15% of what the dealer was going to charge). He must have damaged the wiring when fixing the lining.
Anyway - problem solved. Now my CD player is making clunking and whirring noises - without actually loading and CDs. I can't even eject the CDs (so my Californian Feetwarmers CD is stuck in there!). I notice that this is a problem after the players have been subjected to a disconnected battery for too long. No recourse from Volvo dealer I guess. Any easy fixes ? Even if it is just to get my CDs out ?!?

Thanks for all the great advice to date.