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Front Brake Drag

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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Caberguy
Posts: 58
Joined: 12 June 2014
Year and Model: 2000 S70
Location: Milwaukee

Front Brake Drag

Post by Caberguy »

I've been having problem with my front passenger side brake.

It was dragging, creating a lot of heat and dust. I pulled the wheel and caliper, lubed it and bled it. That seemed to help for a couple of months.

Then about two weeks ago I started getting grinding when I braked. I pulled it apart and found that that the outer pad was worn unevenly... down to metal along the inner radius, still about 1/4 - 1/3" on the outer radius.

Bought and installed new pads from Advanced, so Carquest or Wearever probably.

Seemed to be okay for a few days. But yesterday I got out on the highway for a bit and smelled it, and got where I was going and checked, and I could feel the heat coming off.

When I replaced the pads the pins seemed to move freely and I was able to back off the piston all the way with a c-clamp (though it definitely felt stiffer than the driver side). The retaining clip was missing, though. Breaking performance seems fine, and I'm not getting any weird feedback through the pedal, it's not pulling noticeably.

I was inclined to just replace the caliper. But since it's not really seized, I thought that might not actually be the problem. Ideas?

Edit: I did read through this thread, and am thinking I might be having the same issue, but thought I might as well ask: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=85768&hilit=front+caliper

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

You could have. Aplugged hardline or rubberline,but. That is getting into the “esoteric failure”

The caliper piston shouldmove easily with finger pressure with the bleeder eased ,or else it is sticking.

Replace it, be aware the aftermarket ones aren’t great though.
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1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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WhatAmIDoing
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Post by WhatAmIDoing »

It could be the rubber lines deteriorating preventing the caliper from fully releasing. With the bleeder open how hard is it to push the piston in? As abscate said, it should be easy. If the piston goes back in easy with the bleeder open, then it's the brake lines.

Aftermarket rebuilt calipers are a crap shoot. Might last a year, might last a month, a week, or 5 years.

Get a retaining clip back on there.
'98 S70 T5M - 323,000mi - awaiting heart transplant :shock:
'98 V70 T5M - 324,000mi - my new project
'99 S70 "AWD" - 220,000+mi - gone :cry:
Knows enough to be dangerous :wink:

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

The hard line to soft line fittings are notoriously hard to crack. You can just remove the line at the caliper, and unscrew the caliper from the fitting if it fuses to the hard line. Don’t just yank on it of it is stuck, you will break the hard line. Once the line is of the caliper, soaking it on an eye cup of penetrant will free it up. Wipe it paper towels, it will flush off with all that shiny new brake fluid you will push through the caliper, at least 250 ml
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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