Project Astrid: No start, suspecting bad fuel, would like to purge Topic is solved

veektor · Post by **veektor** » 11 Feb 2019, 12:17

Well, friends, I had one hell of a roller coaster weekend with this car. In my previous threads I had mentioned the desire to rebuild the engine (spun bearing), then decided it would be easier to swap with a junkyard unit. Two weeks ago I got the 'new' engine in, and this last Friday I finally got to buttoning things up. Newsflash: vacuum routing has changed on S60 from '07 to '08! I spent a good part of Saturday trying to figure out the vacuum hose connections, went to Pick-N-Pull to look at '07, even took some of the hose with T-connectors, and still couldn't make it work on my '08. After an exhaustive search of my photographic database, I realized there is no T-connector anymore, and the plastic hose from MAF to Turbo has one nipple plugged on '08. I hope to get around to editing my pics so I can make a post about it. May save somebody headache down the road.

So I got everything buttoned up and try to fire it up. Crank, no start, OBDII reader shows code about Crankshaft Position Sensor (they called it engine speed sensor, but whatever). I knew those wires were getting frayed, and sure enough, one broke. I had some spare connectors on hand, so I performed a field surgery. Looked like crap, but it was enough to get her started!

I let the engine run for a little bit, savoring the long awaited victory. No coolant leaks, no fuel spraying anywhere, no smoke in unexpected places. So far so good. I realized that my power steering fluid leaked out while I had the pump disconnected, so it was running dry. I decided to stop running the engine until I had a chance to pick up some CHF202 the next day.

I return home with power steering fluid, top her off, and get back to cranking. Only this time she keeps cranking without start. After a few tries it will start for 1/2 second, and die again. Kind of follows that pattern for a while, until my battery charger/starter overheated and quit on me.

I am somewhat educated on this, so I know the essentials of internal combustion engine are: air, fuel, compression, and spark. I double checked my air hose connections, the fuel sprays at the shrader valve, spark would likely throw an OBDII code, and compression check will have to wait until I get a loaner tool from parts store. But I can't help wonder if that 1/4 tank of gasoline that sat in my driveway for over a year, and who knows how long it sat at the PO house, may have collected enough moisture to phase separate? I would like to purge the fuel from the tank, but the procedure described for P80 models does not seem to apply to P2 platform. What used to be controlled with a by-passable relay is now integrated into a PEM. I need some suggestions here.

My only explanation for why it started earlier was that vehicle was raised on jack stands and the fuel was picking up higher than the bottom. Maybe when I lowered from the jack stands it started picking up the water at the bottom? Really bummed out right now, wishing I had at least recorded a video of car running, because now I got nothing again. Oof.

Post by **abscate** » 11 Feb 2019, 13:51

Lets get some ether into that induction and make sure we have spark. Esoterica like water in fuel are like food poisoning - rare occurrences.

veektor · Post by **veektor** » 11 Feb 2019, 15:50

abscate wrote: ↑11 Feb 2019, 13:51 Lets get some ether into that induction and make sure we have spark. Esoterica like water in fuel are like food poisoning - rare occurrences.

I have that, will try tonight. I may also dig out my fuel pressure gauge and test at the shrader valve for good measure.

veektor · Post by **veektor** » 11 Feb 2019, 19:30

Got her started this evening, no ether required. As much detail as I tried to provide in the original post, I skimped on some, and the essential factor was omitted.

I removed ECU boxes for engine and transmission to avoid getting them damaged while pulling the engine. I used a primitive method of unlocking the ECU with a flat screwdriver, but just couldn't make it work in reverse. This means that my ECUs were plugged in, but not fully seated. I suspected that may cause some issues, but pressed on anyway, and achieved partial success. The ECU removal tool was already on order, but that package did not arrive until this evening. Once I figured out how to use that contraption, I reseated the ECU, and she started up on the first crank.

Abscate, you were absolutely right to point out that I was overthinking the situation, and was trying to lead the conversation in the direction I had the most control over at the moment.

Now I get to move on to sorting out the suspension clunk on the right side, and hopefully get an understanding why the traction control system is disabled. I borrowed a DICE unit from a friend, which reads the VIN and model information, but won't let me use the Diagnostics tab. I had high hopes that would tell me if the DSC fault is due to a sensor or the control unit.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Feb 2019, 02:38

Clear all those codes first, then see what comes back. One bad or iffy wheel sensor will knock out traction control.

veektor · Post by **veektor** » 14 Feb 2019, 11:39

abscate wrote: ↑12 Feb 2019, 02:38 Clear all those codes first, then see what comes back. One bad or iffy wheel sensor will knock out traction control.

What do you mean by "clear codes"? I am not getting any OBDII codes from the car right now. I do, however, get "ANTI-SKID TEMPORARILY OFF" message, and there was another one about anti-skid system requiring maintenance. Those messages seem to go away after restarting the car, but appear after a short drive. My research into this error seems to point in the direction of steering angle sensor.

I also took a look at all of the wheel sensors, and don't see anything indicating damage with any of them. I'd hate to replace all of them just because I am assuming one of them is failing.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Feb 2019, 11:52

You need a reader which can dig out the BCM codes which will tell you where the fault is.

Is a short drive equal to the first time you reach about 15-20 mph, or is it several minutes?

veektor · Post by **veektor** » 14 Feb 2019, 12:47

abscate wrote: ↑14 Feb 2019, 11:52 You need a reader which can dig out the BCM codes which will tell you where the fault is.

Is a short drive equal to the first time you reach about 15-20 mph, or is it several minutes?

I'm still trying to get the DICE to talk to my computer, I'll keep trying. The short drive is very short, I get to the cul-de-sac at the end of my street, turn around, and the anti-skid warning already lights up. Other threads I've read mention that in-depth diagnostics would indicate there is a dead spot on the sensor, and as soon as it is detected, the computer throws the anti-skid warning.

Post by **abscate** » 14 Feb 2019, 17:16

The car Doesn't self test until it first reaches 15 mph, if you listen , there is a slight burp as the pump tests the system. It won't fault a wheel sensor until this speed.

veektor · Post by **veektor** » 23 Feb 2019, 17:02

: bmc_faults_after_reset1.PNG (15.02 KiB) Viewed 1170 times

Finally got VIDA to read the codes, yay! Got a whole bunch on the first read, some of them were complaining about low voltage (9.4V) to the BCM unit, but I know I've recharged the battery since, so I cleared the first batch. Second reading only returned two codes: BCM-0111 and BCM-A031, both SAS related. I yanked a clockspring from a V70 at Pick-n-Pull, PN 30798167. Searched that PN, could not get a clear indication whether it had DSTC or not, but one of the searches redirected to PN 31313083, which I know is DSTC part. I'll plug it in and see what happens, doubt it will make it any worse.