P2 V70 R radiator r/r 31319056, parts review

[abscate]

This one was on a tight schedule so didn’t get pictures

Prep work

Front of car up on ramps

Remove lower air guide , two M6 screws, release clips in front, lift up and pull back to release. 30 cm screwdriver needed

Remove air pipe from air cleaner, 2 M4 /8mm socket o air cleaner, 3 M4/8mm on front frame member, remove pipe

Remove TWONY M4/8mm socket screws from radiator spring damped clamps

Fan shroud
Remove two M6 bolts from top of shroud
Unplug fan harness
Lift shroud up and out

Remove induction hose from turbo, cover turbo
Remove two M6 bolts on hard pipe
Remove turbo pipe from right side of radiator
Remove turbo pipe from left side of radiator
It’s posdible To leave these in place but clearance will be tight

Drain coolant
Remove two radiator hoses
Squeeze clips, pull AT oil Lines back to release from radiator, top and bottom. About 100 ml AT oil drains

Place support under condenser and inter cooler. We used a jack stand.

Release radiatorfom the rad intercoller condemsor sandwich by removing the four m4/8mm screws from the sand which. They are about 10 cm long. You need a wobble to access the top right left one. Unlike the P80s these are good hardware and fasten from back To front, much easier to access.

Release radiator by dropping the TWO M6 bolts screwed up onto the frame member, supporting from above

Remove radiator by dropping right side, the easing to right to clear left mount from AT lines
After radiator is lowered, release overflow pipe by opening Oetiker clamp, upper left side of radiator

Reinstall notes

Reattach and clamp overflow pipe before mount8mg radiator
Attach radiator and starts sand which bolts before bolting radiator in

LeVe hoses off until fan shroud is reinstalled

We spent 30 minutes fussing with the air guide, and were 3.5 hours to wheels up on ramps to starting engine for leak test. A half day job, max

[abscate]

On parts, March 2019

Valeo is OEM for Volvo, other choices are Nissens And Behr.

The VAleo radiator is the only one that has metal inserts inside the rad hose snouts. You want those if you want ten years from your radiator.

It’s a $300 parts vs $150 parts, otherwise.

Valeo $300
Nissens $150
Behr $110

There are lot of reviews on FCP SAYING THE Behr hardware slots and mounts holes need fitment work so add an hour of time to trim or get new hardware to put the Behr one one. Your time, your value.

The Nissens has a lot fewer notes to this effect.

You can see the metal inserts in the snouts here in this FCP picture, and absent in the two aftermarkets

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 0-31319056

[cn90]

Hi abscate,

Just curious what year/model/mileage when the radiator failed?
Was it a crack at the side tank(s)?
Was it slow leak or fast leak?

[abscate]

Ooof, two years ago.

I can’t remember how many kids I had two months ago…

[cn90]

I took a photo from 2002 S60 AC Condenser DIY in the link and add illustrations to help others:

Replacing A/C condenser - who is OEM?
viewtopic.php?t=75253

Basically, for regular 2.5T engine, the Intercooler is sandwiched between the Rad and the AC Condenser.
I think the R model (such as S60R) has the Intercooler in front of the AC Condenser (not sure but this is what I see on youtube)...

Anyway, as @abscate said...

- Front tires on ramps (wood ramps are fine) so the radiator can be dropped from below.

- I have seen elsewhere that some people drop the Rad and Intercooler as a unit, but this is not necessary.

- As in the photo below, you can see that the Rad is mounted by 2 side tabs, and the Intercooler/AC Condenser combo are held by 4 long bolts mentioned by abscate.

- Support the Intercooler/AC Conderser combo by placing something underneath (jack or wood).
Or use zip ties, metal coat hanger etc.
Basically once in place, the weight of the Intercooler/AC Condenser combo is held by the 4 long bolts, which transfer the weight to the 2 large side mounting tabs of the Rad.

More below...

2004 V70 2.5T radiator replacement tips
viewtopic.php?t=85881


- A Note on ATF cooler lines, as others have said: new O-rings, new green clips. I always cover the free ends with ziploc bags and rubber band to avoid debris from entering the lines. Once all done, add a bit of ATF as needed.
I wrote a trick to check ATF level with engine COLD (no need for a hot engine) in forum. Checking ATF level is easy in the P80 (1998 S70 etc.) bc the dipstick is right there. Checking ATF level in a P2 car is risking bruning your hands bc the dipstick is way down. Anyway, over the years I found that with COLD engine (engine OFF), if ATF is 6 mm in the morning cold engine above "HOT" mark, it will be perfect. You can read more here...

viewtopic.php?t=81549&start=20

- I have not done this job (Rad DIY) on the P2 yet, but these are random photos from the web.
Anyway, once you understand how these 3 items are sandwiched together, then it is not difficult...


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S60-V70-Rad-01.jpg (273.77 KiB) Viewed 2138 times

[cn90]

A relevant PDF on "do88" radiator, good tips/tricks for radiator...

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[erikv11]

Doing this job on the 06 S60 R. Slow leak from cracked side tank up high near the upper rad hose.

This is a super useful guide: straightforward, complete, minimal bloat. Thanks for posting, abdicate-obfuscate.

This was the crux for me:

...
Remove radiator by dropping right side, then easing to right to clear left mount from AT lines
...

There is a thick wiring harness under the rad in the AC compressor area; I eventually zip tied that to the alternator belt and then was able to guide the old rad down and out with one person working above, one below. Pay attention to the route, take the same one for reinstall with the new unit. I used a piece of cardboard between the rad and condenser to protect the fins on the latter.

On the NIB Nissens radiator I installed, on the passenger side the rectangular cavity for the spring clip fitting was too small. The plastic looked slightly warped there. I filed down the spring clip base a bit so as to fit it in there without splitting or stressing any plastic on the new radiator. Otherwise, workmanship seemed good on the radiator.

[abscate]

I can’t even remember which car this was since I’ve never had a P2R. It might have been my favourite lawyer in NJ who I miss even though I’ve moved less than half the distance to since lived in Albany.

Maybe retirement in a few years will change that