Big project weekend. Need advice on best sequence

jmorman · Post by **jmorman** » 22 May 2019, 02:18

I’ve got a pile of boxes from various ipd sponsors waiting for Saturday morning and I’m praying I drive it to work on Tuesday. Any ideas on best sequence or tips would be gratefully appreciated.

My list.
Timing belt/water pump/tensioner
Possible cam seal leak (I’m super busy right up to Memorial Day so this will have to be diagnosed Saturday)
Engine mounts just doing all three now.
Turbo lines

If time.
Boost gauge
Dash swap. This is the one my girlfriend hopes gets done most of all.

Post by **Clemens** » 22 May 2019, 04:16

Start with the timing belt and be sure to have everything you need. you will need a short torx for the tensioner or roller. try your toold before you start by removing the timing belt cover and test fit the tools you have. be sure to spray the two bolts for the lower ziming belt cover with penetrating oil before you get down there.

cam seal leak: haven't had one yet (knock on wood) but I'd try ATP 205. This cured my RMS leak after a few hours of runtime and it has been dry for 2 years. (knock on wood again).

lower hydraulic mounts: do them one at a time and loosen the lower tranny torque mount. the one under the crank pulleys is easy to do. the front one under the radiator is easy to do, you might need to pull the fan shroud to get the mount out. I had to do it on my Turbo with AT and AC. The rear hydraulic mount can be a bear. Quite tricky to reach and grab the upper nut. you will need to lift the engine uncomfortably high to get the rear one out. if you run out of time or energy, leave the rear one for a fun night during the week.

Turbo lines: if you mean the vacum lines, two are okay to reach, for one of thrm you might have to pull the turbo or wastegate unit off. if you do so, you can remove the compressor side of the turbo without having to remove the whole thing. Rober DIY has a video on that.

The upper dash pad is not that much of a hassle timewise, but the complete dash is said to be a weekend job by itself.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 22 May 2019, 07:53

I'd definitely start with the timing belt. Do that and the cam seals all in one shot. In the case of a cam seal leak, it's easier to just fix it than use a stop leak, which may cause other issues. Then again, I have heard good things about ATP 205, so if you have something like an RMS leak that you don't want to fix, it could be a great option, but I don't see the reason for that here.

I assume you are referring to the vacuum/TCV lines on the turbo, those are fairly easy to do. Do those after the belt.

Then take care of the engine mounts. Like Clemens said, the one under the crank pulley is pretty easy. The front hydraulic mount isn't bad either, but the rear can be a bit of a pain. Just take your time and make sure you are safely supporting the engine.

jmorman · Post by **jmorman** » 22 May 2019, 09:03

Turbo coolant lines.
I believe it to be the place of my slow leak. A lot of lines have been replaced in the last year so I’m hoping this will be the fix

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 22 May 2019, 15:22

The top coolant hose for the turbo is easy. Just make sure you remove the screw(s) holding the hard line to the turbo. As for the lower hose, it can be a little tricky, but it's not horrible. Use good quality hose clamps and ensure you have the correct length hose. Being that your car is a 2000, you should have the short one. I've seen '99s with the old style longer hose.

As for when to do them, it doesn't matter if it's before or after the timing belt job. Drain the coolant once and do all of it.

Archer · Post by **Archer** » 22 May 2019, 21:49

Doing all the mounts is well worth the effort, significant noticeable difference. As mentioned, the rear can be a grind. The top nut has to be loosened/removed and I’m pretty sure I was able to loosen with a clumsy universal swivel joint/15mm socket, but ordered a proper 15mm swivel socket to tighten. Have to utilize an extension set-up to get over it from the top, funny angle when seated, easy to slip off when trying to break the nut. Definitely remove the fan shroud for the front....refresh wire conduit/electric tape (3M Super 33+) as you go. Replace all vacuum lines while you’re in there or when you do the PCV system refresh.