Control arm - Is there a safe way to force it?

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 25 Aug 2019, 11:11

Hello again, it's me the novice guy who ripped the CV boot. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... =9&t=89612

The question: How do I force the control arm back onto the steering assembly? I lack skill, tools, and strength.

UPDATE on the boot. The car parts place didn't even have a brass "drift" as called for by Haynes. I had to buy a CV joint puller tool off Amazon (which after I hooked up wrong the first time and squeezed the vibration damper inward an inch... dumb).

I have reinstalled the axle, and put the knuckle back on the strut. I'm protecting the boot with tape over the bottom edges of the strut. I also reinstalled the control arm. The problem is that nothing wants to go together and I'm not strong enough to push the control arm downward to get over the stupid bolt coming out of the ball joint.

It seems I need to do one of two things:

A) Remove the axle from the transmission to keep it out of the way while reattaching the control arm to the steering knuckle.
B) Remove the control arm and reattach the axle to the wheel bearing and tighten things up. Then force the control arm back onto the ball bearing bolt.

I am thinking B) is the best way. I simply will need to force the suspension upward to get the bolt up and into the control arm. Or else I will need to reinstall the ball bearing bolt into the control arm first, and force the control arm on the inside of the car to fit toward the bolts on the frame.

One you tuber who did the control arm talks about using ratchet straps to force the control arm into position when reinstalling.

What I previously did to remove the control arm was to force up on the side bolts of the ball bearing with my trolly jack. It doesn't seem especially elegant or safe....

I've spent a lot of time now and my car is very much disabled.... just a little tip or something will get me there.

Post by **oragex** » 25 Aug 2019, 11:20

If you are comfortable with removing the two big lower strut bolts - may need to check the camber adjustment first - this is what I do - I would also mention that the control arm in the video is an old one, a new one with stiff bushings will require much more force to keep down the spindle. May also try inserting first a screw driver into one of the strut bolts holes, to 'catch' the strut.

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 25 Aug 2019, 12:11

Yeah, I did already remove the strut bolts previously, even though I had read it could affect the camber angle. ( I don't understand how)

In any case, the new control arm seems real stiff and I think it might not be as easy as in the video for me, never the less, I did see a tip there that might get me going. Thanks a bunch I'm going to give this another go. Will post whether I win or lose.

G

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 25 Aug 2019, 12:32

One of the issues I've had is that I didn't detach the sway bar/ roll bar, I guess it's forcing the springs down ward and I can't get the strut high enough? If I remove that will I get some play in the strut? I am worried the suspension and the sway bar are in tension and going to snap up on me.

Post by **oragex** » 25 Aug 2019, 13:27

When it's attached, the end link is 'forcing' a little upwards, so if anything it keeps the bottom end of the strut a little higher - which is actually useful for your situation. May check my channel about this end link (see signature), but I would leave if attached, that upper torx bolt is nasty to undo (the lower is even worse). It's just that it also causes the strut to 'rotate' and move in place so may make it a little difficult to align the bolt holes

For the CA, they are indeed really stiff, takes quite some weight on the wheel hub (also careful not to slide the hub sideways as it will pull on the CV joint and can dismantle it). If you have someone to step on the hub with his weight, it will help you aligning the hub with the strut bolts.

To me the camber setting is not a big matter, I just push the hub all the way towards the engine then tighten down the bolts (will give a little positive camber)

Sardine · Post by **Sardine** » 26 Aug 2019, 04:46

On a volvo V50, I've managed to get the lower control arm into the steering knuckle by using a ratcheting strap as follow:
1) Lift up the car on the side you want the work done using a jacking stand.
2) Wrap the ratcheting strap around the lower control arm and the jack stand somehow.
3) When the ratcheting strap is tightened, it will pull the control arm down. The weight of the car will keep the jack stand from moving.
4) Manoeuvre the ball joint bolt into steering knuckle.
I found it very easy on a V50.

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 26 Aug 2019, 08:07

Oragex, the end link is currently detached, but I'm talking about the sway bar link that runs vertically behind the strut. It attaches to the strut a few inches up from the hub. There never seemed to be a need to remove it as I'm not replacing it. None of the instructions seemed to require it so I left it alone, but it seems that it's putting tension on things - ultimately why I ripped the CV boot for lack of play room. If I pop that off there I'm thinking the strut comes free to bounce.

Just need to make sure this resolves my issue of getting the hub and strut all back together, and then what kind of new thing am I up against to get the link reattached. I want to take it slow and easy but none of this has been easy, just slow.

Post by **oragex** » 26 Aug 2019, 13:43

I'm calling 'end link' the sway bar link. The one attached to the strut. I think it's better to leave it attached. It puts upward pressure on the strut, so it's even better this way. This is a video showing removing the upper link bolt if you need

Post by **mrbrian200** » 26 Aug 2019, 17:07

What I've done:
The two large strut to knuckle bolts, remove the top one, loosen the bottom one but leave it in. With this you can swing top of the knuckle out/away from the car and more easily position the ball joint into the control arm while aligning the CV joint into the wheel bearing. You'll still need to pry the control arm down, but not as far and it's much easier than trying to put this together with both strut bolts installed. Once it's fitted together simply push the top of the knuckle back in toward the car and reinstall the top bolt. And don't forget to tighten the bottom bolt.

Edit: I just remembered.. remove the wheel sensor if you haven't already, as well as the brake caliper. Both the sensor wire and brake hose aren't long enough when you swing the steering knuckle further out via this method. I found it best just to get them out of the way so as not to risk damaging any of it.

gcha8e · Post by **gcha8e** » 26 Aug 2019, 19:18

Mr Brian, thanks. Might give that a go.
Oragex, I think my issue is merely that in your video the end link is clearly detached, the distance he needs to push down on the arm seems to be very minimal, the strut seems fairly well in position where it needs to be to get the hub to align.

But in my case I have what seems a significant more distance to overcome, I figured by freeing the strut from the link, the strut might go upward. It is currently frozen in place, I can only move it side to side.

: my beautiful hub!