Removing Clean Tape On Roof Trim

Post by **velorider** » 27 Aug 2019, 21:25

Does anyone know how to remove the clear tape on the roof trim. Peeling really bad and looks really bad. I have some color match paint I'd like to just paint them but I need to remove the clear tape first.

There must be a body shop secret to get that stuff off.

I've tried mild heat, steam, WD-40 nothing is working on the sections not peeling.

Thanks
John

Post by **June** » 27 Aug 2019, 21:41

I used acetone on paper towels many times over a six month period and now they look fine. My car is Ice White and the white under the peeling clear on the rails didn't rub off. I was careful about hitting the car's body paint, but where I did it didn't hurt the factory paint. The sticky residue tends to smear so use lots of paper towels. Definitely test areas of the car's paint first. My car definitely has its factory paint. A repaint may not fare so well. Also now that the rails are stripped I am toying wit the idea with vinyl wrapping them. June

Post by **velorider** » 27 Aug 2019, 23:32

Did the acetone help remove the tape or the glue residue?

Post by **June** » 27 Aug 2019, 23:56

Both. The acetone caused the rest of the clear tape to wrinkle and come loose. Most of the tape was intact when I started. It took several cleanings before it was all gone. I didn't spend much time each time. Had I worked at it could have been done in a day. I'll add photos of what it looks like now in the morning. June

Post by **velorider** » 28 Aug 2019, 00:46

The acetone worked amazing, made easy work of the tape!! I'm working on the drivers side rear trim piece first. The acetone also soften the factory paint a little so I had to let if harden before sanding it. The first coat is on and in the morning I'll spray a second, then clear in the evening. It's already looks amazing! I'll post some before and after picture of the progress.

Post by **chrism** » 28 Aug 2019, 06:25

June wrote: ↑27 Aug 2019, 21:41 Also now that the rails are stripped I am toying wit the idea with vinyl wrapping them.

We also had an ice white S80 that we recently sold. It had the same peeling problem and I had considered a vinyl wrap as a solution. I don’t know why it wouldn’t work. Some how or another those trim pieces can be popped off but I just don’t know what way they need to be pushed/pulled/twisted to get them off without breaking. A trip to the dealer parts counter or a local wrecking yard might get you a good look at how they’re attached. Once they’re off you could really go at them with the acetone, plus you could get the vinyl wrapped well around the edges.

Post by **June** » 28 Aug 2019, 08:30

Here is a zoom in of a peeling rail before acetone cleaning, and the same rail after acetone cleaning taken today. June

Post by **velorider** » 29 Aug 2019, 23:15

Finished the rear driver side, look so much better. Thanks June for the acetone advice!!!!! Here are some progress photos:

Example of existing condition, please ignore the dirt

Base coat

Clear coat

Wet sanded and polished

I have zero experience doing automotive paint, closest experience was painting a few bikes as a kids

I was able to purchase color coded Volvo paint on ebay in a spray can and figured I couldn't make it any worse. It actually looks really good. The paint is Magic Blue #467 which has a metallic sparkle so I was really worried about the finish, but after wet sanding the clear and polishing it sparkled!

Can't wait to complete the rest!!!

Post by **BlackBart** » 30 Aug 2019, 12:23

velorider wrote: ↑29 Aug 2019, 23:15 The paint is Magic Blue #467 which has a metallic sparkle so I was really worried about the finish, but after wet sanding the clear and polishing it sparkled!

Looks good! Did you wet sand both the base coat and the clear? What papers did you use? I might try some mirror hoods to match factory.

Thanks -

Post by **velorider** » 31 Aug 2019, 00:45

BlackBart wrote: ↑30 Aug 2019, 12:23
velorider wrote: ↑29 Aug 2019, 23:15 The paint is Magic Blue #467 which has a metallic sparkle so I was really worried about the finish, but after wet sanding the clear and polishing it sparkled!
Looks good! Did you wet sand both the base coat and the clear? What papers did you use? I might try some mirror hoods to match factory.

Thanks -

No sanding the base coat, just the clear.

1. 2-3 coats of base about 15 minutes apart. Each coat was a decent amount of paint using fast passes over the piece I'm painting.

2. 3-4 Coats of clear, same technic.

3. 48 hours later, sanded 1000 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> 2500 -> Meguiars/Mothers swirl removal -> Meguiars/Mothers polish -> Meguiars/Mothers wax

The first time I sanded too much and had to reapply the base coat. I was trying to get a dull even finish but with my painting skills that's not possible. If after the swirl removal you have unevenness you can sand a little more, you won't get the shine until you polish.