2004 XC90 has a strong fuel smell

[JosephBH]

Hi,
Our XC90 has a strong fuel smell coming from under the rear passenger side door.
I read on this forum that it could be a fuel pump leak.
I took out the seats and looked at the pump.
As soon as a opened the access panel, sure enough! that is where the smell is coming from.

I looked at it and am not quite sure what to make of it; here are some pictures:
Can any body tell where the leak is?

Thanks!

[SuperHerman]

Pretty common issue with Volvo (and other makes that must use the same pump manufacturer). The white/yellowish plastic starts to crack with age and leaks when under pressure. To confirm, clean up the area really well. Then start the car, being smart as you have gas/fumes, and look for new wetness. Usually it is inside the "X" - if it is the pipe portions the repair described below will not work.

I had the same issue on my 2004 XC90. The proper repair is to replace the pump with a new one. There are write ups and videos on the process - it is similar to other Volvos of the same era. It can be a tricky repair with hoses kinking or not seating correctly. It is also a semi-dirty job; best approach if you are going to replace the pump is to drive it until the tank is nearly empty.

The other approach people have used, myself included, is to disconnect all the connections, including the fuel supply, and filling the entire cavity with epoxy. Before doing this clean everything as well as you can. Once everything is disconnected clean it all again. You have to disconnect the fuel line to relieve pressure - disconnect battery.

Then lightly score the inside of the "X" area in all sorts of directions. Then lightly sand, clean again. You are working towards an oil, dirt and gas free surface with enough roughness so that the epoxy will bite and hold.

Some members have had short term success with this approach and after several months the leak returned. Mine is turning a year with no issues. I think the trick is to thoroughly clean the area and scoring and sanding to get the proper bite for the epoxy. I filled mine in two stages using JB Weld regular epoxy (2 ounce size - two one ounce squeeze tubes), not the quick cure. I did about 1/2 a tube of each and filled it up slowly making sure I didn't get any bubbles. If you slightly warm the epoxy before you apply it - it will be thin and runny. You want a thin consistency so it settles nicely. When it is normal room temperature it is rather thick. You can mix it in a small plastic cup, cut down so you can mix it well and pour it. Once you have it fully mixed take a hair dryer set to it on low, and mix it while you push hot air on it. It will start to get runny. You only want the temp of the epoxy to raise a few degrees - epoxy will set faster if it is hot - you don't want hot - you just want something equivalent to mixing it on a hot day - not room temperature. Once it is runny pour it in slowly and make sure it doesn't bubble. It will self level. After about four hours it will start to firm up - at this point (before it has cured and you can push and dent it through it is tacky like peanut butter) apply the rest of the tube in a similar manner.

The "X" portion of the fuel pump top will be at an angle - so one side will not fill up. To fix this I just used some masking tape around the top to raise it up slightly. You need to push down on the sides as it has ridges - the epoxy will drip down here if you don't. Actually this wouldn't be all bad as it will seal it even better. You just don't want a mess and you need to make sure what ever you do - you can take the pump off in the future. Just filling the "X" area does not alter your ability to replace the pump later. That is why I did it - if it didn't work I was out only $6 in JB Weld - I had to tear into it to find the leak so I was already there. All in it only added 1 hour - so it is worth a shot.

If you want, you can skip the two stages I used, just thin the epoxy with heat, slowly pour into the "X" area until the epoxy level hits the level it just will start to over flow. Then with a tooth pick or the like spread the epoxy on to the rim - add a drop or two more and let it sit. Come back an hour or so later and clean up anything that may have dripped over the side. After this leave it overnight, check that the epoxy is cured and if you are happy hook it all back up and give it a test.

There is debate on which glue is best. There is debate on whether this repair even works.

For me JB Weld regular worked. I did clean everything well. I thought like a glue and prepared the surface to maximize adhesion. So far so good. I think those that have had early failure with this repair used either the wrong glue, mixed the glue incorrectly, didn't use enough glue, didn't clean and score the plastic or did something else wrong. With that said - I fully understand and admit that a new pump is the better option and at some point the gas may find its way out of the epoxy plug.

In the end, like I stated before - I saw $6 and an hour of work to get my 16 year old car on the road. If it starts to leak I know the problem and how to get to the pump panels.

[ggleavitt]

At one point there was a recall for a cracked pump flange with a number of pre-05 P2s, was delivery region specific but might be worth validating- http://volvo.custhelp.com/app/answers/d ... recall-220 (see file attachment R29076.pdf in the link for some additional information).

Absolutely may not be related to your specific issue, just wanted to add another reference point.

[JosephBH]

Thank you for the fast reply!
What is a good detergent to clean the pump with?
Or should I just use a dry paper towel?
I think I might try the epoxy method.

Thanks again for the insightful reply!

[volvolugnut]

I did not see anyone else mention this - If you have disconnected the SRS (airbag and seatbelt) connection to the rear seat, be sure to connect again before starting the car for test. If connection is not made, a code will be set that most code readers will not reset. I know, I did this.
volvolugnut

[volvolugnut]

My 2 cents on new pump for replacement. Your current pump is likely the original and now 16 years old. If you plan to keep the car several more years, it would be good to have a new pump and no worries about the pump failing when least convenient.
volvolugnut

[JosephBH]

To SuperHerman,

I have some 5 minute epoxy here, but I know you used the regular slow setting stuff.
Is there any thing that you see wrong with the 5 min Epoxy?
I couldn't find any thing online about what too use to clean the grime up with. I think I'll just try a rag/ paper towel with maybe some dish soap.

[JosephBH]

I just looked online about fast setting Epoxy...
Apparently, it is highly exothermic. some epoxies reaching above 400 F. Too close to the flash point of gas for comfort!
So We decided to replace the fuel pump after all.
Also decided to take it to the mechanic because they have a pretty decent price since I already did all the work to remove the seats.
I did not remove the middle seat, so it did not mess up the SRS.

Thank you to every body who replied to my posts!

[RickHaleParker]

There is a recall for Fuel pumps that includes 2004 XC90, which where originally sold in certain states. Read Volvo Recall 220.

[abscate]

There is a recall for Fuel pumps that includes 2004 XC90, which where originally sold in certain states. Read Volvo Recall 220.

You have about 4 months left on that recall before it reaches the 10 year “ use by “ date in July 2020, at which point you are on Volvo goodwill.