I am planning to replace my front struts and rear shocks. I have a 2006 S60 2.5T AWD. Absolutely love this car. I've searched and read as much as I can from different sources but can't seem to find any solid answers to my questions. Just e-mailed IPD also but waiting till Monday I guess to hear back so I thought I'd ask here....plus every time I think I've found an answer that just leads to another question because there are so many different details that are stumping me. I'm very detail oriented so these minor discrepancies throw me for a loop.
1. What is the difference between a 'loaded' strut kit and one that is not loaded? I've found multiple Sachs kits on IPD. Springs included and assembled in the pictures anyway. I believe loaded means the entire assembly is ready to install. Then why do some of the kits that look 'loaded' do not say loaded? Just a minor detail I guess?
2. Is there really a difference between AWD and FWD strut kits? Some of the strut kits I've found say FWD. Others don't say. Should I be looking for AWD kits? I assume they're the same.
3. Most of the rear shocks online don't come with springs. Do I need to replace the springs? I'd like to replace the entire rear assembly. I see some rear kits online but not many. Is it because the rears don't get as much wear so I shouldn't bother replacing the rear springs?
Thank you!!!!
shocks and struts
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Goldchemist
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- oragex
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Long Island, I guess not the best streets ? If you keep the car for more years, my take would be to go with Genuine. You may find a Volvo dealership that sells online at a decent price. I have a video on my channel (www.youtube.com/watch?v=kos_nLjjgno) showing how to find the suspension code on your car plate, to order the correct part number. This is just an example (not the right one) of a Volvo dealer in Canada, in canadian currency (so around $120 USD https://www.volvooftorontoparts.ca/p/Vo ... 67252.html
I had several other brands, including Sachs and Monroe, to me the Genuine replacement is much better than all others, but I have to admit I doubt it's the same quality/comfort as the original suspension that came when the car was new. These replacements are made in Turkey by Sachs for Volvo
I would recommend keeping the original springs (or at least not throwing them away as yet), and replacing only the strut and spring seat (Sachs or CRP/Rein only). Try to keep the original strut bearing mount as replacements ones are of unconfirmed quality as of this time. For the front struts, the spring needs compressed to replace them. You may also need end links (Lemforder)
I had several other brands, including Sachs and Monroe, to me the Genuine replacement is much better than all others, but I have to admit I doubt it's the same quality/comfort as the original suspension that came when the car was new. These replacements are made in Turkey by Sachs for Volvo
I would recommend keeping the original springs (or at least not throwing them away as yet), and replacing only the strut and spring seat (Sachs or CRP/Rein only). Try to keep the original strut bearing mount as replacements ones are of unconfirmed quality as of this time. For the front struts, the spring needs compressed to replace them. You may also need end links (Lemforder)
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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Loaded or “ ready struts” are assembled struts that don’t require the spring compressor to install.
Five bolts, some minor accessories , and they are in
Downside. You get no say what junk they use for all the components, and there are many junk parts.
The rears are different construction , with the springs not being compressed in the mounts,so components can be purchased and installed separately.
Five bolts, some minor accessories , and they are in
Downside. You get no say what junk they use for all the components, and there are many junk parts.
The rears are different construction , with the springs not being compressed in the mounts,so components can be purchased and installed separately.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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- MoVolvos
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I am not endorsing either Brand but both have been around. I did purchased a set of Gabriel Ready Mounts and rear shocks for a 98 S70 T5. Enjoyed the ride and performance for 2 years that I owned the car. Gabriel does not have a Front Ready Mount for the S60 just bare front struts and rear shocks. Video for reference.Goldchemist wrote: 29 Feb 2020, 17:47
1. What is the difference between a 'loaded' strut kit and one that is not loaded?
2. Is there really a difference between AWD and FWD strut kits?
3. Is it because the rears don't get as much wear so I shouldn't bother replacing the rear springs?
Thank you!!!!
.
1) eBay - Complete Assembly & Lifetime Warranty
2) eBay - Fits AWD and FWD
3) Don't need to replace rear spring unless you've had a bad accident and you deliver cement in it.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Pair-Com ... 0005.m1851
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Easier Installation
Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
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I watched wizechatmgr rip off and replace a strut in about an hour+ the other day, including horsing around with troubleshooting my T5 no crank issue...we did have some nice impacts to deal with the rusty upstate NY bolts
Empty Nester
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- GlennG2759
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I agree, by buying a bare strut you get to choose what goes in it. Get a spring compressor with the buy/return/refund tool program A.A. or A.Z. Compressor isn't as scary as people will lead you to believe to use. Respect it and go slow.
A impact driver makes it a lot easier. I refreshed my struts 100k (spring seats, mounts, and all other hardware) but wasn't pleased with results. I ended up getting a pr. of Sachs on sale for $88.00 each. I kept original springs, much better ride now. Good Luck
A impact driver makes it a lot easier. I refreshed my struts 100k (spring seats, mounts, and all other hardware) but wasn't pleased with results. I ended up getting a pr. of Sachs on sale for $88.00 each. I kept original springs, much better ride now. Good Luck
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Read the instructions on the compressor, my ABN says not to use impact tools on the tension screw.
Empty Nester
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I've read that various places too. Are your ABN compressors standard cut threads VS ACME? I've seen both made by ABN.
My cheap, heavily used & beloved set of compressors says BOTH. In one area it says "3/4" hand or impact wrench required..." and in another it states to "always tension/release tension using hand tools ONLY." The cheap set I always use is ACME cut thread. I'll be darned if I'm gonna tension down spring compressors with a ratchet/breaker bar, though. I always use an (air) impact with my spring compressors.
This is not a task to take lightly! The potential for danger/death is very real with anything that is compressed, so don't be foolish.
My cheap, heavily used & beloved set of compressors says BOTH. In one area it says "3/4" hand or impact wrench required..." and in another it states to "always tension/release tension using hand tools ONLY." The cheap set I always use is ACME cut thread. I'll be darned if I'm gonna tension down spring compressors with a ratchet/breaker bar, though. I always use an (air) impact with my spring compressors.
This is not a task to take lightly! The potential for danger/death is very real with anything that is compressed, so don't be foolish.
2001 V70XC 200k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
2014 Ram 3500 DRW 116k
2004 V70 AWD 174k
2004 V70R M66 147k
2004 XC70 361k
1995 F250 7.3PSD 262k
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Pete, I suspect that for us backyard guys, who use this tool 2x yearly, the impact is fine.
If you are a shop, then using it weekly, it’s important
I would also clean and oil the threads each time.
I threw out my old JC Whitney compressor a few years ago because
1) I can’t remember how much I paid for it
B) had no money when Inbought it.
iii) the latches were cast silver cheese and were crumbly
I sure like the forged hooks on the ABN, as well as the safety latches
If you are a shop, then using it weekly, it’s important
I would also clean and oil the threads each time.
I threw out my old JC Whitney compressor a few years ago because
1) I can’t remember how much I paid for it
B) had no money when Inbought it.
iii) the latches were cast silver cheese and were crumbly
I sure like the forged hooks on the ABN, as well as the safety latches
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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Goldchemist
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Thanks for all of the advice. The confusing part to me is that some of the assembled kits say 'loaded' and some of the assembled kits don't say 'loaded'. I'm going to assume its just a minor part description difference. I understand the rears now, thanks.
I've used the rented compressors from auto zone in the past. I changed my strut mounts about two years ago. I was planning to go with the assembled or 'loaded' kits this time because I've been battling my other vehicle for the past few weeks and don't feel like dealing with rebuilding the struts. But, sounds like the best bet for best ride quality is to buy the genuine Volvo strut and keep all my other original parts.
I'm sure I will be back with updates and questions as I dig into this job. First priority though....swap out my thermostat ECT assembly.
Thanks again!
I've used the rented compressors from auto zone in the past. I changed my strut mounts about two years ago. I was planning to go with the assembled or 'loaded' kits this time because I've been battling my other vehicle for the past few weeks and don't feel like dealing with rebuilding the struts. But, sounds like the best bet for best ride quality is to buy the genuine Volvo strut and keep all my other original parts.
I'm sure I will be back with updates and questions as I dig into this job. First priority though....swap out my thermostat ECT assembly.
Thanks again!
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