Front Strut replacement recommendations and gotchas? Topic is solved

[Jonboy74]

Hi all,

This is for my 2002 V70 2.4T...

I’ve never done this before, but it doesn’t appear to be that hard. I’m just tired of bottoming out....these struts are original and have 263,000 miles on them. I replaced the rear shocks after one of them blew at 227k 2.5 years ago, and aside from lifting the rear of the car a couple feet off the ground that wasn’t too terribly bad

I used Meyle from FCPEuro and they seem ok, but what do I know?

So, I’m just doing my homework before I dive into this. Any recommendations for struts to avoid or any pitfalls I might run into doing this in my driveway?

I’m not planning to deal with the springs unless there is a significant reason that I should..... I figure I would just get struts already assembled with springs so I don’t have to deal with a spring compressor.

I’m assuming I’ll need to have an alignment done once I get them swapped out, correct?

This is the kit I was looking at:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... chs-033078

Thanks,

Jonboy

[SuperHerman]

Jonboy- I think that is a great kit fcp has assembled. I like the fact they added the sway bar end links.

It is a pretty straight forward job unless the bolts are corroded. End link removal can be a major pain, but you can use a vice-grip to grab them from behind as they are being replaced. I have had to use a sawzall for them so in my experience that is the biggest pain of the project.

You are wise to spend the extra $200 or so and be done with it - turn key solution and a fresh front end.

Alignment is always a smart move, although you can mark the knuckle and put the shock back at the mark and be pretty close.

[Jonboy74]

Thanks SuperHerman!

[Georgeandkira]

My caveat for using spring compressors isn't needed here. It would've been the one to make sure you go "even Steven" between the 2 sides.
I will advise you to get some thick cloth tape and place a 10" strip across the very top of the wheel well. Believe me, when you go to set the strut in place you'll be watching the lower end and may very well scratch your fender's paint. My friend kept his eyes open and caught the top of the strut before I damaged the paint.

One of my '02's struts had ZERO dampening power. It's the one in the lower picture. It wouldn't even extend out of the car. The other was oozing smelly thick oil. You'll have no problems and will be amazed with the improvement.
And yes, that's blood on the wheel. No sacrifice too great.....

[Jonboy74]

I will advise you to get some thick cloth tape and place a 10" strip across the very top of the wheel well. Believe me, when you go to set the strut in place you'll be watching the lower end and may very well scratch your fender's paint. My friend kept his eyes open and caught the top of the strut before I damaged the paint.

I believe you, but I am trying to wrap my head around how that could even remotely be an issue??

And yes, that's blood on the wheel. No sacrifice too great.....

LOL, I hear ya. Been there, done that!

Thanks!

Jonboy

[Georgeandkira]

Scratching my car's paint during reassembly would've been a negative.
Not really issue material but it could be when time came to sell....plus every time I'd see it I'd feel less a man.

addition: Never have I required alignment after 4 strut cartridge replacements. Lead pencil marks became photos. Never saw a crookedly worn tire.
I've a suggestion for you upon request.

[oragex]

Good kit but it doesn't say the brand of the bearing plate - keep your old bearing plates as spare just in case. The lower nut on the end links must be cut with a grinder. Hard to say about the alignment, if the new suspension is rising the front end, then yes, but be sure the bushings on the control arm are good and not much play in the tie rods. If anything, inserting the new strut assembly is easier from the left side of the hub (end link side) with the bottom first. Careful not to stretch the ABS sensor wire (also never pull on this wire even slightly). As mentioned above, watch the fender paint, and also with the strut out, look underneath at the paint at the top of the strut tower, it gets rust in there and can go as far as to pierce the tower

[MoVolvos]

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I always check FCP before buying elsewhere and I would say they get about 75 percent or more of my parts purchase. The amount to make Free Shipping and the Lifetime Warranty makes it the choice for everything even if it cost a few dollars more. Depending on the condition and mileage of your Volvo and how well you have kept it up there are times where spending a ton of money just does not make sense.

1A Auto is another place for reference in terms of parts. They also have excellent customer service and most parts have a Lifetime warranty.
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https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-s60-s80-v7 ... 540&y=2002
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On The Ground

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On The Lift - Jay does make it look a lot easier.

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[Jonboy74]

1A Auto is another place for reference in terms of parts. They also have excellent customer service and most parts have a Lifetime warranty.
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https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-s60-s80-v7 ... 540&y=2002

I LITERALLY was getting ready to ask about 1AAuto....interestingly, they have this kit for $3 less, but it appears to contain sway bar end links....

https://www.1aauto.com/volvo-s60-s80-v7 ... 494&y=2002

Considering the age and mileage of my car, I'm trying to justify $600 when I can spend less than half that....

Anyone know any reason why I shouldn't go with 1AAuto?

Thanks,

Jonboy

[Jonboy74]

I've a suggestion for you upon request.

Ok, I'm all ears....

Thanks,

Jonboy