940 Regina starts fine, runs for a bit, then dies. Repeat.
- bharman
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 3 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1993 940
- Location: California
- Has thanked: 2 times
940 Regina starts fine, runs for a bit, then dies. Repeat.
My 1990 B230 Regina has been sitting for a few months, ran sweetly before. Now it starts readily, idles, will go in gear for varying amounts of time, 30 seconds, to half a mile down the road, then it starts to sputter, cough, bogs badly on pressing gas, then dies. She starts right up immediately, idles and maybe gets me back home barely before quitting again. Put new fuel filter first, no change. In-tank pump works but I don't know how to check pressure, sock is fine. I removed the pulse regulator thing above the pump(some other thread said it might be leaking air), no change. Put a few gallons of fresh gas in, thought it might be spoiled gas, no change. Fuel lines all look fine. Changed out the radio suppression relay, no change. Swapped a used fuel pump relay, no change. The crank sensor wire looks fine. Any ideas?
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6222
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
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Will the car idle without moving for long enough to get to full warmup?
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6222
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
- Been thanked: 999 times
It could be related to the engine temperature sensor. If the sensor does not report the rising coolant temperature, the computer will continue to provide excess fuel for cold idling. I am not sure if this explains the restart and run after it died on the road.
Search this forum for temperature sensor. There are two.
volvolugnut
Search this forum for temperature sensor. There are two.
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- bharman
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 3 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1993 940
- Location: California
- Has thanked: 2 times
So, I pulled the old coolant temp sensor, cleaned the contacts, put a new one in. No change in the condition. Starts, idles for a while, chugs and dies. Would the fuel pressure regulator be next?
- volvolugnut
- Posts: 6222
- Joined: 19 January 2014
- Year and Model: 2001 V70
- Location: Oklahoma USA
- Has thanked: 927 times
- Been thanked: 999 times
Check the Ohms of the coolant sensor at a known temperature. Repeat at a higher temperature. Use top radiator hose as the temperature reference. You can do this in the car if your arms are skinny. If you do not have the recommended Ohm rating, post here for more information. Contacts may be good and the sensor bad. I had to replace mine on '83 245 to fix rough idle after warm up.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
The Fleet:
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
-
Bodhi5
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 15 June 2020
- Year and Model: 2001 s40
- Location: Toronto
- Been thanked: 1 time
Hi, I've always bought old beater projects for 25yrs, from 244 turbos, to Honda, Toyota, now got ,s40. I've noticed many YouTube n forum complaints about idling, reving, stall, n engine dies.
These are electrical problems caused by:
1) loose battery terminals,
2) uncharged dying battery under 10volts,
3) rusted negative blue wire terminals to engine n frame, under battery.
4) dead alternator not charging battery properly,
5) bad plug wire n solid state coil sparkers.
6) engine idle control that YouTubers allege get dirty from controlling air intake to cylinders. Not sure about this, I haven't changed this yet, but maybe in a month will.
I do notice that all Volvo's do not sand off paint to steel frame when grounding negative terminal to frame under battery. This can cause rough idling cause spark cannot return to battery n alternator, and paint can disrupt this because there is oil insulators silicon, sealers that slow, prevent electrical flow.
Volvo engines are great, I've seen some go to 1 million miles like Honda's Toyota's. U just have to keep electrical, plugs, coolant oil flowing. Buy one of the new genius battery multi chargers, tester. If u run low on sulfuric acid in battery, try vinegar or clear coca cola.
Hope this helps everyone!
Cheers.
These are electrical problems caused by:
1) loose battery terminals,
2) uncharged dying battery under 10volts,
3) rusted negative blue wire terminals to engine n frame, under battery.
4) dead alternator not charging battery properly,
5) bad plug wire n solid state coil sparkers.
6) engine idle control that YouTubers allege get dirty from controlling air intake to cylinders. Not sure about this, I haven't changed this yet, but maybe in a month will.
I do notice that all Volvo's do not sand off paint to steel frame when grounding negative terminal to frame under battery. This can cause rough idling cause spark cannot return to battery n alternator, and paint can disrupt this because there is oil insulators silicon, sealers that slow, prevent electrical flow.
Volvo engines are great, I've seen some go to 1 million miles like Honda's Toyota's. U just have to keep electrical, plugs, coolant oil flowing. Buy one of the new genius battery multi chargers, tester. If u run low on sulfuric acid in battery, try vinegar or clear coca cola.
Hope this helps everyone!
Cheers.
- bharman
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 3 March 2014
- Year and Model: 1993 940
- Location: California
- Has thanked: 2 times
Solution update on my problem! It was an oxygen sensor connection problem by the catalytic converter. I cleaned my idle air control valve, almost bought a new one (phew), checked my coil pack, seemed to be ok, almost lost my mind, then read yet another forum reply and checked my oxygen sensor. A wire was broken. Problem solved.
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