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2004 S60 NA Radiator fan wouldn't turn off (more than one ECT?)

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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skstrobel
Posts: 3
Joined: 30 July 2020
Year and Model: 2004 S60
Location: MT

2004 S60 NA Radiator fan wouldn't turn off (more than one ECT?)

Post by skstrobel »

Hi everyone! The other day the radiator fan in my 2004 S60 (2.4, non-turbo) didn't turn off and ran the battery down. The fan would run whenever the battery was connected, even if the key was not turned on. At first we worked around it by disconnecting the battery whenever the car was turned off, and later by unplugging the two prong plug at the top of the shroud. I trained my family to plug it in before driving and unplug it afterward :)

After reading some forum threads on the issue, I was thinking that the problem was likely a bad fan control module, which on this car unfortunately comes as part of the whole fan assembly. I was planning to try removing the purple wire and checking whether the fan still ran (if I understand it right, the fan continuing to run in that case confirms that the fan control module is bad). But before I got around to trying that, the fan stopped turning on as soon as the power connector was plugged in.

I took it for a test drive up a long steep hill. The temperature climbed to mid-scale as expected and then stopped climbing. I stopped at the top of the hill and checked the fan; it wasn't running. While I was stopped and watching the temperature gauge, it suddenly (over maybe two or three seconds) jumped from mid to full scale. I headed back down the hill, hoping that the airflow through the radiator from the car moving (mostly coasting downhill) would cool it down.

While headed downhill, I fired up a code scanner (generic ELM327 1.5 Bluetooth adapter talking to the MotorData app on my Android phone) and checked the engine coolant temperature. It varied from about 186 to 192F (85 to 89C) as I drove, which if anything seems a bit on the low side. But the temperature gauge on the dash stayed pegged as if it was completely overheated.

When I got to the bottom of the hill, the gauge was still full scale. I turned the car off and the fan continued to run for almost exactly 6 minutes. I turned the key back to the run position (without starting the car). The fan started running right away. The code scanner read 178F (81C); the temperature gauge on the dash still read full scale. I started and stopped the engine; the fan ran for six minutes; the gauge remained at full scale.

I turned the key back to the run position to reconnect the code scanner; the fan immediately started running again. The code scanner showed a coolant temperature of 171F (77C). The temperature gauge started at minimum but over the next about 30 seconds it gradually rose to full scale. I turned the key off and the fan ran for another six minutes.

The fan shutting off after six minutes suggests to me that the fan control module is now working. The fan running whenever the key is on and the temperature gauge on the dash going to full scale seem to suggest that the engine coolant temperature sensor isn't working. But the temperatures shown by my code scanner make sense and don't indicate that the engine is hot. Is there more than one ECT? Should I replace the one by the thermostat?

Steve

chrism
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Post by chrism »

There is only one sensor and it drives both the gauge and the fan controller. It sounds like you’ve pretty well diagnosed it down to a faulty sensor. Maybe someone on the forum has a temperature vs resistance curve and can give you two or three data points to check.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

That data is here in this forum
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skstrobel
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Joined: 30 July 2020
Year and Model: 2004 S60
Location: MT

Post by skstrobel »

Would I need to remove the sensor to test it? I am guessing so, because I think I will need to do something (perhaps take it to higher than normal operating temperature) to make it fail now; just driving it normally hasn’t made the gauge display anything unusual since my test drive the other day when it went to full scale. And I would need a way to know the temperature to check the resistance. Today I drove it about 20 miles on the highway with outside temperatures around 90F (32C), then about a mile in town. The gauge rose to mid-scale and stuck there (as usual). When I arrived, the fan wasn’t running and my code scanner read 210F (99C). That all seems good for the time being.

Since removing the sensor and testing it sounds like more work than just replacing it, maybe I should just replace it and wait to see if it acts up again. But there are so many choices! Just at my local auto parts stores, all of these show up as being compatible. Any suggestions about which I should try? Or a different one from another source?

$7 - Stant 2 Terminal Coolant Temperature Sensor. Part #74027.
$8 - URO Coolant Temperature Sensor URO-012830
$18 - Valucraft Coolant Temperature Sensor SU4007VC.
$18 - MasterPro Ignition 2 Terminal Sensor. Part #2-9334
$26 - Duralast Coolant Temperature Sensor SU4007.
$31 - Echlin Ignition Part #: ECH TS6677
$32 - Murray Climate Control 2 Terminal Coolant Temperature Sensor. Part #36424
$34 - Mileage Plus Electrical MPE TS6677SB
$41 - ACDelco 2 Terminal Sensor. Part #D583.
$57 - Echlin Ignition Part #: ECH TS5775
$78 - ACDelco 2 Terminal Coolant Temperature Sensor. Part #15-5986.

Thanks!
Steve

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Post by abscate »

This is a part where you want to use OEM parts only, ordered from a reputable source.

Part number is 8653103, it will cost about $55-60

Don’t get price anchored by junk.

Order from IPD, FCP
Volvo dealer
Amazon from reputable source, not generally “ sponsored sites”
Junkyard

eBay is rife with counterfeiters and grifters
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Post by darrylrobert »

Your OBD2 code reader uses the cars thermostat sensor and the values are normal yet the DIM needle point to full scale, i think the problems is not the sensor but the ECM.
1981 260 GLE converted to 240 M46 after auto box failure
1987 740t auto converted to M47
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1998 V70 factory M56 (parts car)
2001 XC70 factory M58
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Post by abscate »

Definitely check the resistance cold and hot on the existing sensor before buying , and also check wiring carefully

The gauge is not really a gauge, it’s a cold...correct...overheat three way indicator.
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skstrobel
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Joined: 30 July 2020
Year and Model: 2004 S60
Location: MT

Post by skstrobel »

Thanks for all of the info, everyone. It started working right again, running the fan when it should and turning it off otherwise, keeping the temperature (per the code reader and gauge) within a few degrees of 190F (88C) even in hot weather and when pulling long hills. I am sure it will act up again and I'll get to track down the fault, but I have some other fires I would like to put out first if it keeps working that long. I'll try to follow up here when I know more (or have more questions).

Thanks again,
Steve

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