SAS Delete Troubleshooting (96 850)

[ToriWhite]

CEL (0410) comes on even after SAS delete solder on ECU, what could be causing this?

It pains me there’s so few (visual) resources for the SAS system, even though it’s relatively ‘shallow’ in the engine bay, having a guide or diagram really helps out! And Roberts never done a video on removing or replacing it, either!

I’m still completely blind as to the components of the SAS system, and their locations- except for vague distributions. If anyone is privy to how that system works, I would really appreciate chiming in. I’m going to photograph my endeavors, so the next sorry sod to deal with this won’t have to suffer as much

[misha]

Sas solenoid must be connected and sas valve plugged or removed and manifold port plugged.

Other than that....cut the red wire from air pump relay(positive feed for air pump).

If all above is covered....than there is a possibility that you fried a diode while soldering.

[ToriWhite]

Thanks Misha, I haven’t done anything but solder- all the hardware’s still in place. I’ll try poking around the manifold and unplug the pump

[misha]

Air pump and it's relay are under driver's side fender.

[abscate]

System components in line drawing form

[ToriWhite]

Thank you for the diagram Abscate!

There are two wires that come from the pump, a black and blue. I presume the black is the ground, on account that it’s black- and the ‘control’ comes from the Blue, which is plugged into the relay

Attached is a photo of the relay, which has 3 plugs on it, and the two wires from the SAS, highlighted in yellow. Blue plugs into the relay (shown as unplugged) and black snakes up to, presumably, the battery.

I’ve unplugged just the blue and gave it a start, but it still threw 410. Do I need to unplug everything from the relay, or only one of the 3 from the relay?

Side note, I have not yet tested my pump as is, because I thought it’d be way deeper and harder to get to, would I be able to jump it from that blue wire, to the red terminal? Considering there’s only two wires, it makes me thing that it’s +/- to just a pump, and no sensitive circuitry, that the relays do all the thinking for it

[abscate]

Don’t assume with wiring, and the older the car, the less you can depend on colour of wire

Find the wiring diagram on the inter webs.

The relay and solenoid have to stay in place even after the diode insertion to the ECM. They get other tests they have to pass

[erikv11]

Keep working on it but for the record yes it is pretty easy to cook the diode when installing, if you are soldering.

[ToriWhite]

Going to jump it tomorrow, with a fuse in-line, to be safe

If you look at the previous picture, I noticed Socket 2 is unplugged.. that was like that before I got there.. I only unplugged socket 1 when I was under. Today I plugged both of them back in (no dice) and then unplugged 3, as suggested above (no dice)

Fingers crossed jumping it shows the motor’s just fine, and that socket two just fell out of its own accord!

[ToriWhite]

Jumped it down to the plug with a 10a fuse.. which it blew. That little motor can't take more than 10 amps, right?

Besides that, no combination of plugging/unplugging from the relay has made a difference. I thought with all the original hardware in place, that the SAS manifold opening wouldn't need to be plugged up like Misha said above; is that not the case? Do I need to remove the tubing to manifold and plug it with something as well as have the SAS pump unplugged?

Tomorrows troubleshooting agenda, figure out which tubes to suck and blow on to check the status of the solenoid / valves that may also be at fault, and test them without someone calling Management on me for suspicious activity