1998 Volvo V70XC won't start at 16 degrees

rocky_mtn_man · Post by **rocky_mtn_man** » 26 Oct 2020, 12:54

16 degrees last night and right now (10/26/2000 at 1pm in Colorado)
and my 1998 Volvo V70XC (180,286 miles) won't start.

I put a full charge on my battery, and when I first
try to start after waiting a while I get the engine to run for two seconds,
then it quits and cranking periodically doesn't work.

Possible problems causing the no start:

I have replaced spark plug boots, new Bosch spark plugs, Bosch cap and coil already.
That did not fix a misfire code. CEL is still on.

I know I have a clogged PCV system, and have the parts for that. Since it involves
removing the fuel rail, I have new Bosch fuel injectors ready to install. Also a new
Fuel filter, though I don't think I am starving for fuel.

I'm thinking if the fuel injectors have never been replaced, this might help a
great deal with this cold start problem and get rid of the misfire codes.

Wondering if any of you in cold areas have this kind of problem? You would
think a Swedish car is made to start reliably in cold weather!

Thanks, rocky_mtn_man

Post by **jimmy57** » 26 Oct 2020, 13:12

Injectors are almost a yes or no failure. If the flow rate is off much the fuel trims go out of range and the check engine light is on.
DO you know if it flooded out and quit or ran out of fuel and quit?
The last two times it was started how long did it run?
Does it crank over normally or does it seems it is spinning over faster?

Post by **manovlov** » 26 Oct 2020, 13:46

Did it work before the sparks plugs change ? Are you sure to have plugged everything fine ? Could it have to matter with a fuel filter ? How many miles has got the lady ?

Manov

Post by **abscate** » 26 Oct 2020, 13:55

We get a rash of fuel relay induced no-starts on P80s

Best way to diagnose this is with a fuel pressure measurement. If you don't have this gauge, try some starting fluid to see if she comes to life!

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 26 Oct 2020, 16:05

My 1998 C70 would not start at low temperatures. It was the barometric pressure sensor crapping out. The ECM could not calculate the correct air/fuel ratio for a start.

Invest in 850 OBD-II and a good ELM327 interface so you the car can tell you where it hurts.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 26 Oct 2020, 18:39

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑26 Oct 2020, 16:05 Invest in 850 OBD-II and a good ELM327 interface so you the car can tell you where it hurts.

+1
If you have a CEL, get the codes read.
The light on the dash is just an alert.
The codes that triggered it are what
you really need to get back on the road.
A basic OBD ll unit can be had very reasonably.

Post by **scot850** » 26 Oct 2020, 19:38

Is your car stored outside?

Does your car have a block heater of any sort?

Assuming your coolant temp sensor is ok (ECT) (there are ambient temp readings v's resistance to verify this), the it could just be that the intercooler has frozen preventing the engine from getting air. You said your PCV is clogged. That will force air into the intercooler and clog it like bacon fat in your arteries. The oil sits in the cooling tubes and then when the engine cools in cold temps the moisture freezes in what is left of the tubes and causes a block. In cases where the intercooler is not fully blocked the engine may start and idle but when you try to get power to move it will go no where.

The simplest thing to start with is to get one of those oil pan heaters that can sit under the car and warm the front area of the block and the intercooler. This should give you a chance of getting the car started. Once it starts let the engine idle until warm and you should be ok.

Longer term I would suggest the following in these temperatures:

1) If your car does not have a block heater then see if you can get one from a crap car. They may still be available from Volvo but may not fully fix the issue. You could try to find a water heater to insert in the radiator pipe to warm the water and the proximity to the intercooler of the radiator may prevent the intercooler freezing.
2) You can get an oil pan 'stick-on' heater pad that will warm the oil but may not help with this issue.
3) If the external temp stays cold for long periods, you can fit a piece of cardboard in front of or behind the hood grille with zip-ties to reduce the cod air running through the intercooler and it will reduce the condensation building in the intercooler. DO NOT RUN the car above +10C (F??) with cardboard in place!!

Longer term:

1) Fix PCV system!!
2) Remove the intercooler and see if you can find a radiator repair shop that is willing to clean it. It may not fully get it clean but it will significantly improve it.
3) Where you can, park the car with the engine away from the cold wind direction
4) Cardboard over the hood grille.

Good Luck.

Neil.

Post by **Chuck W** » 27 Oct 2020, 07:55

ECT. ECT. ECT.

My 97 T5 had fits last winter when it got cold and the ECT connector was corroded/bad.

Did not want to start, and ran like crap when it did.

Post by **SonicAdventure** » 27 Oct 2020, 12:15

rocky_mtn_man wrote: ↑26 Oct 2020, 12:54 16 degrees last night and right now (10/26/2000 at 1pm in Colorado)
and my 1998 Volvo V70XC (180,286 miles) won't start.

I put a full charge on my battery, and when I first
try to start after waiting a while I get the engine to run for two seconds,
then it quits and cranking periodically doesn't work.

Possible problems causing the no start:

I have replaced spark plug boots, new Bosch spark plugs, Bosch cap and coil already.
That did not fix a misfire code. CEL is still on.

I know I have a clogged PCV system, and have the parts for that. Since it involves
removing the fuel rail, I have new Bosch fuel injectors ready to install. Also a new
Fuel filter, though I don't think I am starving for fuel.

I'm thinking if the fuel injectors have never been replaced, this might help a
great deal with this cold start problem and get rid of the misfire codes.

Wondering if any of you in cold areas have this kind of problem? You would
think a Swedish car is made to start reliably in cold weather!

Thanks, rocky_mtn_man

I chased this problem all last winter. Did a complete tune up, and ECT sensor and MAF. Still had stalling.

Ended up being the fuel pump relay. The car wouldn’t start when the temp was at or below 22F. Once I replaced the relay the problems went away. Now I keep extra ones in my car. One telltale sign of a bad fuel pump relay is when it does finally start up and stay running you will usually hear a clicking/buzzing from the relay (you can hear this coming from the area where the VIN plate is, even if the hood and door is shut.) If you hear buzzing during start up or failed start up from that area, swap out the relay.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Oct 2020, 14:51

OEM only on the fuel pump relay, junkyard Is fine.

Don’t Kill An Entire weekend with an aftermarket