2001 volvo v70 crank no start

spineda · Post by **spineda** » 28 Nov 2020, 12:02

My saga continues I restarted this page as I could no find the original one. the car is a 2001 Volvo v70 turbo.
the car has a crank no start. I have done many things.
there Is good fuel at the rail 60 psi and I did replace the fuel filter.
spark side - there is no spark and the coils don't generate any power with a spark tester.
I did get 2 codes p0121 ( tps sensor) and p1238 ( turbo control valve).
I figured the TPS sensor code explained more regarding the problem. when I turn the key to position 2, there is no clicking from the ETM. I then used xemodex flow chart and at the ETM plug engine side when I measure across pins 5 and 6 there is no voltage. when I measure from pin 5 to battery positive I do get 12 volts so I assume pin 5 Is ground and pin 6 brings power. I next checked to see if I have I have any voltage at fuse 7 ( fuse is intact) and I do not. I did replace the min relay according to the flow chart but still no power at fuse 7.
somehow im not getting power to the etm not sure what I am missing. any thoughts/help is greatly appreciated.

ps I also did replace crank and cam sensors with no help.

Post by **gnalan** » 28 Nov 2020, 12:22

Yes, pin 5 is ground and pin 6 is +.

According to the flow chart, if there's no power at fuse #7 then the Engine management relay needs to be replaced.

I would look more into why you don't have any power to the coils, which would be making sure the two grounds are clean and tight. I'm not sure what fuse/relay they run off of, but if the Engine management relay is bad that may cause the no spark issue.

Do you have power at the other fuses with the key in position 2? Maybe the fuse that feeds the distribution block is bad. Is there power from the positive lug on the distribution block to ground?

spineda · Post by **spineda** » 28 Nov 2020, 13:52

thank you so much for the response
Yes I do have power to other fuses in the fuse block so this is strange
I did change out the engine management relay with no luck
there is power on the positive lug to ground -- I get battery voltage there
I may call xemodex on Monday but the issue seems to be that there is no power at fuse 7 or more specifically at the relay block I guess
thank you for any thoughts

spineda · Post by **spineda** » 28 Nov 2020, 13:54

gnalan wrote: ↑28 Nov 2020, 12:22 Yes, pin 5 is ground and pin 6 is +.

According to the flow chart, if there's no power at fuse #7 then the Engine management relay needs to be replaced.

I would look more into why you don't have any power to the coils, which would be making sure the two grounds are clean and tight. I'm not sure what fuse/relay they run off of, but if the Engine management relay is bad that may cause the no spark issue.

Do you have power at the other fuses with the key in position 2? Maybe the fuse that feeds the distribution block is bad. Is there power from the positive lug on the distribution block to ground?

thank you so much for the response
Yes I do have power to other fuses in the fuse block so this is strange
I did change out the engine management relay with no luck
there is power on the positive lug to ground -- I get battery voltage there
I may call xemodex on Monday but the issue seems to be that there is no power at fuse 7 or more specifically at the relay block I guess
thank you for any thoughts

Post by **gnalan** » 28 Nov 2020, 16:37

You could trace down the wiring for pin 6 to see if it's broken anywhere, or check the resistance between pin 6 and a good ground in the engine bay. There shouldn't be any resistance unless there's a short in the wiring. You could also try to run a new wire to pin 6 from the positive lug to the pin wiring as close to the ETM plug as you can using something like what's in the attached pic, just make sure to run an inline fuse that's the correct size if you do and remove fuse 7 in case there is a short, to see if the ETM powers up.

: Screenshot_20201128-183442__01.jpg (111.6 KiB) Viewed 1208 times

Install the fuse last in the new wire. It'll have power at all times this way, so a different connection point will need to be found if this does work. If it doesn't, just tape up the wire from where the plastic connect (in the pic) was connected.

spineda · Post by **spineda** » 28 Nov 2020, 18:06

thank you sir for the idea
basically your saying run power from somewhere ealse to pin 6
I also checked fuses in the same line on the fuse box there are 8 fuse ports there is power to fuse 1. the next 2 ports ore open no fuse but there is power and then fuse 4-8 have no power they cover ecm etm and oxygen sensors so this is weird
this may be the ecm ( computer ) but ill try your idea and see if anyone ealse has ideas and ill try xemodex as well thanks steve

Post by **gnalan** » 28 Nov 2020, 18:25

There's fuses underneath the distribution block too that you might want to check. They're a bit difficult to get to, but you need to disconnect the battery, remove the nut on the lug (also a good time to clean the rings if they're corroded), the 4 torx screws, and the wiring connector that's plugged into the top. Then, if I remember correctly, it should lift up but it may be snapped into place. I can't remember since I haven't had mine apart in awhile.

Yours may differ from mine, which is a 2001 S60, but here's the diagrams for mine that might be helpful.

spineda · Post by **spineda** » 28 Nov 2020, 19:17

spineda wrote: ↑28 Nov 2020, 18:06 thank you sir for the idea
basically your saying run power from somewhere ealse to pin 6
I also checked fuses in the same line on the fuse box there are 8 fuse ports there is power to fuse 1. the next 2 ports ore open no fuse but there is power and then fuse 4-8 have no power they cover ecm etm and oxygen sensors so this is weird
this may be the ecm ( computer ) but ill try your idea and see if anyone ealse has ideas and ill try xemodex as well thanks steve

I checked those but they are ok and they see to be related to posterior stuff wiper subwoofer etc but I appreciate any thoughts because I struggling

spineda · Post by **spineda** » 28 Nov 2020, 19:57

also im in the Cleveland ohio area if anyone know a good local inde shop or has other ideas I really appreciate it
thanks
steve

Post by **xHeart** » 29 Nov 2020, 08:40

spineda wrote: ↑28 Nov 2020, 12:02
I did get 2 codes p0121 ( tps sensor) and p1238 ( turbo control valve).

I had similar problems. It appears that the air intake system has failed. If everything -- sensors, pipes and hoses -- from MAP to ETM is good, then XeMODeX upgrade is needed. Meanwhile, https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... =9&t=95124