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09 XC90 3.2 Exhaust Manifold replacement

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
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pmhoppe
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09 XC90 3.2 Exhaust Manifold replacement

Post by pmhoppe »

Can anyone furnish step by step guidance? I have a bad O2 sensor in bank 1 that is stuck tight. I tried all my tricks and took it to a shop that specializes in Volvos. No luck.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

What is in your bag of tricks? Somebody might have one you don't have.
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2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
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ggleavitt
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Post by ggleavitt »

Horrible site to navigate but there's a step by step here- https://workshop-manuals.com/volvo/xc90 ... page_6859/

VIDA is an outstanding technical reference that many folks use in maintaining their vehicles. There are various ways to get a copy working and it's free if you look around. Try an internet search for "how do I get VIDA installed on my PC?" and see what comes back. If you're not able to get it functioning locally, the link above is your only other bet for free.

As relates to getting the stuck sensor off, seems like if folks had suggestions they might already be making them. My response to your question is in regard to the manifold removal only.

Good luck with your repair
2006 V8 Ocean Race #740/800 200k, 2008 V8 Sport 183k

pmhoppe
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Post by pmhoppe »

RickHaleParker wrote: 13 Dec 2020, 00:45 What is in your bag of tricks? Somebody might have one you don't have.
Using different socket and wrench combinations in conjunction with penetrants. Also applied heat (very dangerous in such a tight space).

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

pmhoppe wrote: 13 Dec 2020, 19:04 Using different socket and wrench combinations in conjunction with penetrants. Also applied heat (very dangerous in such a tight space).
Have you tried this?
1. Cut the wire off.
2. Run the engine to heat it.
3. Work it free with a 22mm deep impact socket and a breaker bar.

By work it free I mean turn a couple degrees one way then back the other way, back and forward, back and forward. Will breakup the rust and other gunk with out binding up the threads.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

pmhoppe
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Joined: 14 June 2015
Year and Model: 2009 XC90
Location: Louisville, Ky USA
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Post by pmhoppe »

Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions. I have decided not to try and remove the manifold due to the high probability of breaking one or more of the 13 fasteners required to take it off and will renew my efforts to remove the O2 sensor. I will cut the top off the sensor and have ordered the Gearwrench Bolt Biter 1/2 in. Drive Bolt Biter Impact Deep Extraction Socket 22 mm (7/8 in.) to assist me.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/GEARWRENCH- ... /314933052

Being a great believer in high heat to remove rusted bolts, I am prepared to purchase a magnetic resonance induction heater to safely heat the sensor if needed. If you haven't heard of this method check this out: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... eater+tool

pmhoppe
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Year and Model: 2009 XC90
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Post by pmhoppe »

Finally got the sensor out. Using a Dremel tool with an abrasive cutoff disc, I cut the metal jacket about 3/8" above the hex. As the jacket is filled with ceramic, you have to cut the metal all around the sensor and use a hammer to break the ceramic. Then using the IRWIN Tools Bolt Extractor, 7/8-Inch / 22mm, 1/2-Inch Drive (53916) I was able to back the sensor out. Work the bolt extractor back and forth to lessen thread damage to the exhaust manifold bung. My threads had some damage so I purchased a M18 x 1.5 thread chaser to clean up the damage. I coated the new sensor threads with anti-seize compound and finally had a working sensor instead of the dead one I had been driving around with for over a year. The one on the left took 30 minutes to replace and the one on the right took over a year. :D
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