Tips on removing the head on a -99 v70 2.5t

[Eliotlm]

Hi!
I written a few threads in the past regarding diagnosing my issues. I've come to the conclusion that the head needs to be removed in order to change a burnt Valve, and or head gasket. The problem has to do with the cams, im really afraid of Messing up the timing, I purschased a cam locking Tool, that goes on the back of the cams, i'm just unsure on how I should use it. I cant find a guide that shows how to use it for My purpose, and all the head gasket replacement tutorials are vara without vvt-hubs. So I Wonder if someone has some tips on how to do it properly.

I thought that in order to get to the headbolts, i would have to remove the camshafts, wouldnt that render the locking Tool useless if I need to remove the shafts?

I also wonder when i should take the timing belt of and wether to align the sprockets straight Up first, and then put the lock on.

IF anyone has any tips they would be greatly appreciated!

[abscate]

You want to set the crank to the clearance mark, but once you remove the cam cover with the 47 M6 flange bolts, the cams come out and lose their index

Off comes the head for rework

Going back on, you will set the cams based on the rear offset flanges, then set up the lock tool to torque the CVVT hob back on.

[Eliotlm]

You want to set the crank to the clearance mark, but once you remove the cam cover with the 47 M6 flange bolts, the cams come out and lose their index

Off comes the head for rework

Going back on, you will set the cams based on the rear offset flanges, then set up the lock tool to torque the CVVT hob back on.

So if I understand you correctly, the only reason i time the engine by setting the pulleys att the marks is so that i can remove the cams without damaging the valves on the piston head? But i dont have to install the locking Tool before disassembly? After lining up the pulleys with the marks, can I safely take Off the belt?

[abscate]

The torx bolt on the CVVT cam pulleys is really tight. You won’t have a good way to counter hold it to loosen it if you don’t use the lock tool; likewise for tightening it,

[wizechatmgr]

You want to set the crank to the clearance mark, but once you remove the cam cover with the 47 M6 flange bolts, the cams come out and lose their index

Off comes the head for rework

Going back on, you will set the cams based on the rear offset flanges, then set up the lock tool to torque the CVVT hob back on.

So if I understand you correctly, the only reason i time the engine by setting the pulleys att the marks is so that i can remove the cams without damaging the valves on the piston head? But i dont have to install the locking Tool before disassembly? After lining up the pulleys with the marks, can I safely take Off the belt?

So if I understand you correctly, the only reason i time the engine by setting the pulleys att the marks is so that i can remove the cams without damaging the valves on the piston head? Yes
But i dont have to install the locking Tool before disassembly? Correct
After lining up the pulleys with the marks, can I safely take Off the belt? Yes
Remove the VVT hub before you go messing with taking the timing belt off, It may help. The problem is you MUST have the cam locking tool on in order to really remove it.

You MUST install the locking tool while putting it all back together.

[FLXC90]

So the idea is, set the timing to the marks, Install the lock tools on the rear of the cams, this will secure them to the upper cover. then undo the belt(s), remove the cam cover and cams together, perform required work.
With the cams locked in the cover, you can do the VVT hubs
Re-install cam cover/cams, replace forward cam seals, set timing and VVT hubs, remove tool, replace rear cam seals, replace tool, set timing and hubs, install belt(s)

[Eliotlm]

You want to set the crank to the clearance mark, but once you remove the cam cover with the 47 M6 flange bolts, the cams come out and lose their index

Off comes the head for rework

Going back on, you will set the cams based on the rear offset flanges, then set up the lock tool to torque the CVVT hob back on.

So if I understand you correctly, the only reason i time the engine by setting the pulleys att the marks is so that i can remove the cams without damaging the valves on the piston head? But i dont have to install the locking Tool before disassembly? After lining up the pulleys with the marks, can I safely take Off the belt?

So if I understand you correctly, the only reason i time the engine by setting the pulleys att the marks is so that i can remove the cams without damaging the valves on the piston head? Yes
But i dont have to install the locking Tool before disassembly? Correct
After lining up the pulleys with the marks, can I safely take Off the belt? Yes
Remove the VVT hub before you go messing with taking the timing belt off, It may help. The problem is you MUST have the cam locking tool on in order to really remove it.

You MUST install the locking tool while putting it all back together.

Thank you for a clear answer! Do I remove the sprocket and the vvt huv or just One of Them If that is even possible)

[Eliotlm]

So the idea is, set the timing to the marks, Install the lock tools on the rear of the cams, this will secure them to the upper cover. then undo the belt(s), remove the cam cover and cams together, perform required work.
With the cams locked in the cover, you can do the VVT hubs
Re-install cam cover/cams, replace forward cam seals, set timing and VVT hubs, remove tool, replace rear cam seals, replace tool, set timing and hubs, install belt(s)

I dont understand how the Tool Will lock the cams into the cover and is it necessary to replace all the seals? I dont have any and would have to order some IF so. Im also abit confused how to to reinstall the vvt hub as it is spring loaded, how is the correct way to reinstall it? Thank you very much for the answers!

[Eliotlm]

You want to set the crank to the clearance mark, but once you remove the cam cover with the 47 M6 flange bolts, the cams come out and lose their index

Off comes the head for rework

Going back on, you will set the cams based on the rear offset flanges, then set up the lock tool to torque the CVVT hob back on.

So if I understand you correctly, the only reason i time the engine by setting the pulleys att the marks is so that i can remove the cams without damaging the valves on the piston head? But i dont have to install the locking Tool before disassembly? After lining up the pulleys with the marks, can I safely take Off the belt?

So if I understand you correctly, the only reason i time the engine by setting the pulleys att the marks is so that i can remove the cams without damaging the valves on the piston head? Yes
But i dont have to install the locking Tool before disassembly? Correct
After lining up the pulleys with the marks, can I safely take Off the belt? Yes
Remove the VVT hub before you go messing with taking the timing belt off, It may help. The problem is you MUST have the cam locking tool on in order to really remove it.

You MUST install the locking tool while putting it all back together.

How is the proper way of reinstalling the huv afterwards?

[abscate]

Solid hubs are easy , three m6 flange bolts , and the hub is indexed to only go on three ways. Mark it with a punch or use the rear cam slot to get the right position

CVVT hubs have a large torx bit, a T55 torqued to about 90 ft lbs. that’s really tight.

A 1999 v70 T will have exhaust only CVVT

The four seals will cost $20 total and replacing them whenever the cam cover is removed is prudent practice

Replacing the 5 orings that seal the spark plug chambers is also prudent.