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Random no-start/no-crank

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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SonicAdventure
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Random no-start/no-crank

Post by SonicAdventure »

Hi all,

Over the last 6 months, there have been 1-2 times when I've gotten in my car '96, n/a/ 850, turned key to start and nothing, no noises, no crank, no buzz, nothing. Without fail when I turned the key again it started right up.

Went out the other day to run an errand. 5 min drive. When I went to re-start, nothing. Took key in and out, rowed the shifter, nothing. After waiting about 10-15 mins. I tried again and I got a very weak starter sound, like the battery was dead, but at least a crank happened. Man came with jump box (assuming dead battery) and it started right up. Ran it for 10 mins., shut it off, and it started right up again. I've been out running errands all day, starting, stopping, no issues. The battery is from 2015, so I was thinking to just replace that, but I'm not sure thats the only issue.

I've read about ignition switches on these, and I've never replaced or messed with mine. FCP says the right part number for an 850 is 9447803, I have a 9447804 that I pulled from a 98 or 99 in the junkyard. the 803 has a black plastic cap and the 804 has a grey one. What is the internal difference between these two switches? Are they interchangeable? How can you test a switch and determine if its bad? My other thought is the PNP switch, as I don't currently have reverse lights and the bulbs are good I just checked them both.

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RickHaleParker
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Post by RickHaleParker »

SonicAdventure wrote: 01 May 2021, 16:06 The battery is from 2015, so I was thinking to just replace that, but I'm not sure thats the only issue.
If you do a lot of short trips ans/or do not drive the car much. The battery maybe Sulfated.
Leave it on a float charger when the car is at home for the next 3 - 4 weeks.
Also clean the battery terminals and the terminals on the B+. Make sure they are in good condition.
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SonicAdventure
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Post by SonicAdventure »

RickHaleParker wrote: 01 May 2021, 16:50
SonicAdventure wrote: 01 May 2021, 16:06 The battery is from 2015, so I was thinking to just replace that, but I'm not sure thats the only issue.
If you do a lot of short trips ans/or do not drive the car much. The battery maybe Sulfated.
Leave it on a float charger when the car is at home for the next 3 - 4 weeks.
Also clean the battery terminals and the terminals on the B+. Make sure they are in good condition.
I do make lots of short trips, but several 1+ hr trips per week as well. Sometimes the car will sit for 1-2 days max between drives, but in reality, over the past 2 years (same battery the whole time), the car is driven almost daily. Unfortunately, float charging is not an option where I live as car is parked outside and no power terminal nearby. I will be cleaning the battery terminals later tonight. Thanks -

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Post by matthew1 »

You could lug the battery out of the car and trickle charge it inside...

I know, not palatable for this low-med. level of annoyance, but there it is either way.
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pbierre
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Post by pbierre »

I would open the glove box and watch the light in there as I'm turning the start key. If the light dims way down in response to turning the key to start, you need a new battery. If the light stays bright while you turn the key to start (and no starter motor action), you need a new ignition switch.

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Post by SonicAdventure »

pbierre wrote: 01 May 2021, 20:27 I would open the glove box and watch the light in there as I'm turning the start key. If the light dims way down in response to turning the key to start, you need a new battery. If the light stays bright while you turn the key to start (and no starter motor action), you need a new ignition switch.
that is one heck of a sharp answer and as soon as the sun goes down tonight, I know what I will be doing -

Thanks a million, I love "old school" diagnostic like this :D

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Post by SonicAdventure »

Any thoughts on the interchangeability of ignition switches? There is a 94 or 95 in the junkyard near me I'm planning to see if I can grab one from there, but would a grey capped 9447804 from a 98 or 99 work in a pinch?

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Post by foggydogg »

I don't remember the start date for chips, and others may know about switch internals, but the last time I had this very issue it was the push-on wire on the starter solenoid. The diagnostic was to do the on-n-off removal and reinstall when the offence occurred, then on to the real fix of little wire brush and a slight recrimp on the spade connector. Mine is turbo, I dare not repeat the language used doing this on my car.
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Post by abscate »

SonicAdventure wrote: 02 May 2021, 10:50 Any thoughts on the interchangeability of ignition switches? There is a 94 or 95 in the junkyard near me I'm planning to see if I can grab one from there, but would a grey capped 9447804 from a 98 or 99 work in a pinch?

It’s the 9447803 part for the 92-97 850, then the 9447804 for 98-99, then the. ?. For the late 99-2000
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Post by RickHaleParker »

abscate wrote: 03 May 2021, 04:18 It’s the 9447803 part for the 92-97 850, then the 9447804 for 98-99, then the. ?. For the late 99-2000
↑↑↑ In Europe ↑↑↑

North AMErica did not get key chips until 1999. My AME 1997 S90 had no key chip. My AME 1998 C70 has no key chip.
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.

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