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Stall at start/idle/stop - 2004 XC70

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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br0dy519
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Stall at start/idle/stop - 2004 XC70

Post by br0dy519 »

Hi guys,

Back again for more fun and games with the 04 XC70. A couple of weeks ago the wife had mentioned in her drive cycle she received the "Reduced engine performance" message, and a VIDA readout showed throttle body codes. I drove the car for the past week, and the issues started getting worse. 50% of the time upon starting up, it lowers to its' regular 700rpm idle, then it sputters and dies on me. It also happened last night when slowing and approaching a left turn as well. I believe my plan of attack should be to inspect/clean the throttle body, and address a vacuum leak as detailed below.

Troubleshooting so far:
1) Cleaned the MAF (seems to be the #1 hail Mary I keep reading on other threads)
2) Located and fixed multiple vacuum leaks on the hose tree with the check valves that feed the purge valve up front. Replaced with all new 5/16 and 3/8 hose. Clean and verify check valves functional.
3) Performed glove test, great vacuum pulling glove in

I can still hear a high pitch whining/air noise change tone when doing mid/heavy accel. I had the OTE and connecting hoses off the car when I did my alternator last month and upon inspection didn't notice any cracks on the hard plastic or rubber hoses/pipes, and also verified all my hose connections, so I think my leak is elsewhere, and require a smoke test. I've researched and found a few threads regarding smoke testing, however, I'm more of a "VISUAL" learner :roll: could someone tell me or show a picture of a simple way to introduce smoke into the vac lines? I was planning on removing the tube just prior to the MAF, covering with a glove and band, then removing another ideally 3/8 line (because I have a barb and extra hose) and blowing smoke into it. Just trying to grasp what would be the most effective method here.

For the throttle body troubleshooting, what would be the most pertinent information from VIDA to post here? I was reading another thread where the guy's throttle position was stuck at 12%, is that highly helpful info for troubleshooting a bad TB? I performed the TB calibration, and heard the TB chattering doing it's thing with key in POS II. I, however, don't have an option for an ETM sweep test in VIDA (I suppose because it's an 04, likely Bosch unit), so I can't rely on that particular function within VIDA.

Thanks again guys. Been quite the saga this summer. Replaced ball joints, wheel bearing failed, alternator failed, muffler fell off, now this TB issue. Hopefully this thing calms down so I can relax a little bit soon. abscate will make fun of me, but I want to ensure my next order online has everything I need (TB Gasket, perhaps additional air hoses) because my local parts stores carry no stock of the volvo stuff. Hence why I want to do as much troubleshooting as possible prior to putting an order together.
Last edited by br0dy519 on 23 May 2021, 23:40, edited 1 time in total.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Update: Couldn't even get past go! Was going to remove one of the hoses at the intake hose from the MAF to the turbo and realized the entire hose was already off the turbo! The plastic collar that adapts to the turbo was completely sheared off and the hose was hanging without its' clamp. So I'm going to try and source that hose. Question: The PTC heater/nipple on that hose had no electrical connector connected to it, and I can't find a connector anywhere in that area in the engine bay. Did the 04 XC70 not have that heater connected?

I also removed the throttle body, and that hose too had a faulty collar where about half of it was sheared, so I'm going to replace that too. I was gentle, promise, so I think it may have been heat or the last person who was in there. The TB was filthy so that's being cleaned. Will update as I find more, definitely looking forward to hearing about that PTC heater electrical connection though..

EDIT: Found the PTC electrical connector buried under the O2 sensor mating plugs. Doesn't look like it's -ever- been plugged in... interesting. Looking forward to calling around to try and find the hoses I've found with cracked collars. Hope to have everything buttoned up with functional pipes and the cleaned TB on wednesday. Will update the thread.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Well it looks like my issue is (mostly) fixed. No more stalling after a cold startup after the initial high RPM then drop, and no more stalling when coming to stops or turns. It looks like cleaning the TB, and replacing the air intake and TB pipes solved the issue ( to the tune of $220CAD for the pipes shipped from a dealer ).

It does seem though that sometimes the car after being warm does a sort of hesitation while cruising at highway speed and sometimes at idle you can hear the engine dip, no feedback on the RPM gauge. This issue has been happening for a while actually, couple years. Originally I replaced the fuel filter among other things. I checked all my coils this weekend by unplugging one at a time and all of them affect engine performance which is a good sign. Going to check the plugs next week once weather is more predictable. No FPS or PEM on this car so that's a relief. Also feels like I lost some of the power/acceleration that I used to have. Could my muffler delete have caused any of the above issues? All I did was replace my muffler with a 3 foot section of 2.5" pipe with a 45 degree bend in it. Curious to see if anyone will chime in.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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br0dy519
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Post by br0dy519 »

Issue is back!

Sputtered and stalled in the Costco parking lot today- joy! Took about a dozen tries to restart it. It would turn over, start, then sputter to a stop. Mechanic thinks it's the fuel pump just from a phone call with me. No PEM, no FPS on this car. I'm gonna throw a fuel pump at this thing I think. At a minimum it will give me a chance to see if there's any contaminants in the fuel tank I suppose. I should install a new filter too, even though I just replaced it last year. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.

I did spray carb cleaner all over the fuel injector area, and intake hoses and couldn't get it to change idle just to see if there's a vacuum leak. I do have codes for EVAP leaks but I'm wondering if it's actually the lid of the fuel pump like everyone else gets. Going to take the rear seat off and inspect this weekend.
04s60 2.4
04xc70 2.5t
prwood wrote:I wish I had a permanent car repair area that was covered, had a level surface, lighting and fans, a workbench, and tool cabinets. You know,like a garage. Much of my time during the job is spent hauling things up and down the stairs to the basement or in and out of the storage shed, or running back downstairs when I realize I need something else,or taking a break from standing out in the sun,or using flashlights or work lamps when it gets dark.

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Post by Vova585 »

Hope you dont have a full tank of gas, since you will spill a lot. If it is 50% full you should be ok. Do yourself a favor and buy fuel pump ring opener tool($30) and new rubber seal between fuel pump assembly and tank($12?). You will thank yourself a lot. Replace fuel filter at the same time too(you are in ON so it will likely be rusted by now). I understand that's it is "parts cannon" but not too cost prohibitive to replace. I doubt your issue is gas cap(rare issue on volvo IMHO) likely one of the lines around charcoal canister are leaking(super fun requiring to lower subframe a little to replace). Do you currently have codes for throttle body? Those are not lasting forever and usually around 120-150k miles will start to act up(xemodex is expensive but great option for repair). Good luck

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Post by MoVolvos »

br0dy519 wrote: 12 Jun 2025, 12:14 Issue is back!

Sputtered and stalled in the Costco parking lot today- joy! Took about a dozen tries to restart it. It would turn over, start, then sputter to a stop. Mechanic thinks it's the fuel pump just from a phone call with me. No PEM, no FPS on this car. I'm gonna throw a fuel pump at this thing I think. At a minimum it will give me a chance to see if there's any contaminants in the fuel tank I suppose. I should install a new filter too, even though I just replaced it last year. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.

I did spray carb cleaner all over the fuel injector area, and intake hoses and couldn't get it to change idle just to see if there's a vacuum leak. I do have codes for EVAP leaks but I'm wondering if it's actually the lid of the fuel pump like everyone else gets. Going to take the rear seat off and inspect this weekend.
.
I had two bad really bad coils which caused a similar problem on the 00 S70 SE. They were basically not working after I washed the car with the cover off.

Have purchased a variety of parts: XC90 Wiper Gear Assembly, AC Compressor 09 Crown Vic P71 Interceptor, 05 GS430 Starter and more. Good customer service.
.
1 Year Warranty Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Engine-I ... 2BV70&th=1
.
3 Year Warranty Direct

https://a-premium.com/product/a-premium ... oil-ic0010
.
Blessings,

BKM


2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
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1998 S70 T5 Prior
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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

you need a fuel pressure gauge with enough hose to hang the gauge off the drivers mirror to monitor pressure as you drive.

Vova585  
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Post by Vova585 »

jonesg wrote: 12 Jun 2025, 17:37 you need a fuel pressure gauge with enough hose to hang the gauge off the drivers mirror to monitor pressure as you drive.
That would be a a "diagnostic" part, but gentleman identified that he wants to try to replace fuel pump and hopefully "parts cannon" will hit desired target and issue will be fixed. Ideally I totally agree that diagnostic should be done first. However I was several times doing "educated guess" with some luck and error(same as many of us. Sometimes you want to replace some part and just looking for an excuse to tackle that project)

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Post by abscate »

Measuring fuel pressure makes a lot of sense here. Fuel pump failure on P2 is rare , especially if you kerp the Idiot Man light off
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Post by jonesg »

br0dy519 wrote: 12 Jun 2025, 12:14 Issue is back!

Sputtered and stalled in the Costco parking lot today- joy! Took about a dozen tries to restart it. It would turn over, start, then sputter to a stop. Mechanic thinks it's the fuel pump just from a phone call with me. No PEM, no FPS on this car. I'm gonna throw a fuel pump at this thing I think. At a minimum it will give me a chance to see if there's any contaminants in the fuel tank I suppose. I should install a new filter too, even though I just replaced it last year. If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.

I did spray carb cleaner all over the fuel injector area, and intake hoses and couldn't get it to change idle just to see if there's a vacuum leak. I do have codes for EVAP leaks but I'm wondering if it's actually the lid of the fuel pump like everyone else gets. Going to take the rear seat off and inspect this weekend.
A no start condition makes it easier to diagnose with a shot of ether in the intake manifold.
When my fuel pump was leaking it stunk of fuel but ran fine, the top cover was flooded with fuel.

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