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ENTIRE VOLVO S80 2007 / 2008 FACTORY ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAMS

Everything on the Volvo S80. Sometimes called an "executive car", the S80 was Volvo's top-of-the-line passenger car. P2 platform.
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volvotechgod
Posts: 2
Joined: 23 June 2021
Year and Model: 07 s80
Location: earth

ENTIRE VOLVO S80 2007 / 2008 FACTORY ELECTRICAL WIRING DIAGRAMS

Post by volvotechgod »

IM PUTTING THIS HERE BECAIUSE ITS A NIGHTMARE TO FIND ANYWHERE ( FULL CAR FACTOR ELECTRICAL DIAGRAMS)
THIS WILL ESPECIALLY HELP THOSE TRYING TO FIND THE SPEAKER WIRIING COLOR CODES COMING OUT OF THE
AMP .. ITS ON PAGE 118 THRU 120 I RECALL / WHEN INSTALLING AN AFTERMARKET AUDIO SYSTEM YOU MUST PULL THE MAIN UNIT OUT OF THE DASH, YOU CANT REUSE THE WIRING THERE AT ALL EXCEPT FOR THE LARGE BLACK WIRE ITS A GOOD GROUND, GO UP ABOUT INCH AND HALF AND CUT IT FROM THE CONNECTOR. STRIP THE END, AND YOU HAVE A GOOD NEGATIVE - / GROUND WIRE FOR YOUR NEW UNIT, YOUR NEW STEREO WILL NEED THE ANTENNA ADAPTER CABLE, IT HAS A WEIRD LITTLE SQUARE RECTANGLE CONNECTOR ON ONE END AND STD ANTENNA JACK ON THE OTHER, IT SHOULD BE MIN. 6 INCHES LONG. NEXT YOU WILL NEED TO RUN 2 NEW POWER WIRES +POS 12VDC.
THIS IS EASILY DONE BY RUNNING TWO WIRES FROM THE UNDER DASH FUSE BOX ON THE PASSENGER SIDE UNDER THE DASH / FLOOR BOARD, JUST LOOK UP UNDER THERE YOU WILL SEE IT. SIMPLY STRIP ONE END OF YOUR NEW WIRE FOR RED 12DC + COMING FROM YOUR NEW CONNECTOR, PULL FUSE #6 (REQUIRES STOUT NEEDLE NOSES WITH CROOVES IN THE ENDS OF THE POINTS OR A NEEDLE NOSE VICE GRIPS) WRAP STRIPPED WIRE AROUND THE POST OF THE FUSE AND PUT IT BACK IN #6 FUSE HOLE ( #6 IS THE ORIGINAL RADIO FUSE ) THEN YOU NEED THAT 2ND WIRE AND DO THE SAME BUT ADD IT TO A FUSE THATS ALWAYS POWERED, LIKE A CIGARETTE LIGHTER OR SOMETHHING THATS ALWAYS POWERED, THIS NEW WIRE IS THE YELLOW WIRE FROM YOUR NEW PLUG, IT ACTUALLY DOESNT REQURIE MUCH CURRENT, IT SIMPLY KEEPS THE RADIO MEMORY POWERED, WITHOUT IT YOU LOOSE ALL RADIO SETTINGS EVERY TIME YOU POWER OFF THE INGNITION SWITCH. NEXT YOU WILL NEED TO RUN 2 4 6 8 ECT ECT SPEAKER WIRES FROM YOUR NEW CONNECTOR TO THE SPEAKER WIRES UNDER YOUR SEAT WHERE THE AMP IS
AND YOU WILL NEED TO CUT THEM LOOSE TO SPLICE THEM INTO YOUR NEW SPEAKER WIRES, THATS WHAT GOOD THIS DOCUMENT ATTACHED IS FOR , IT TELLS YOU THE COLOR CODES OF THOSE SPEAKER WIRES. IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO READ A SCHEMATIC, FIND SOMEONE WHO DOES AND GET THEM TO SHOW YOU, ITS EASY.
ONCE YOU HAVE SPLICED THE NEW WIRES TO THE EXISTING ONES CORRECTLY, YOU WILL HAVE A NEW SOUND SYSTEM.
NOW.. HERE IS A TIP WORTH GOLD, AS YOU WILL HAVE DISCOVERED, THERE IS NO EASY PATH TO RUN ALL THE WIRES FROM YOUR NEW CONNECTOR WHICH IS IN THE DASH CAVE OF THE OLD RADIO DOWN TO THE FUSE BOX AND BEYOND TO UNDER THE SEAT. MORE ON THAT IN A MOMENT, WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO IS TAKE A STURDY METAL STANDARD COAT HANGER, OPEN IT AND BEND IT STRAIGHT, THEN TAKE THE END OF A FEW WIRES, I MANAGED 3 SPEAKER WIRES OR 2 POWER WIRES AT ONE TIME, USE ELECTRICAL TAPE TO WRAP THE END OF THE WIRES TO THE END OF THE COAT HANGER END, JUST 3 OR 4 TIGHT TURNS OF TAPE WILL DO, THEN ON THE RIGHT OF THE RADIO CAVE YOU WILL SEE A BIG OPENING, YOU HAVE TO GUIDE THAT COAT HANGER FORWARD AND DOWN AT ABOUT A 30 DEGREE ANGLE UNTIL IT GETS DOWN NEAR THE FUSE BOX, IT WILL ACTUALLY COME OUT RIGHT IN FRONT OF THE FUSE BOX IF YOU GET IT RIGHT AND LUCKY. THEN PULL OUT SOME EXTRA LENGTH OF WIRE AND SNIP OFF WHERE ITS TAPED TO THE HANGER, SO YOU HAVE FREE WIRES.. GO AHEAD AND PULL ENOUGH SPEAKER WIRES TO FEED ACROSS AND DOWN THE SHAPE OF THE DOOR WELL ALONG THE EDGE OF THE DOOR AND A COUPLE FEET EXTRA, COIL IT UP AND PUT IT UNDER THE SEAT FOR NOW.. YOU WILL PATCH THEM INTO THE EXISTING SPEAKER WIRES LATER. YOU WILL ALSO NEED A MULTI METER WITH CONTINUITY TESTER BEEPER ON IT..MOST HAVE THE ALREADY EXCEPT THE REALLY CHEAP ONES. SO REPEAT THIS UNTIL YOU HAVE BOTH POWER WIRES AND AS MANY SPEAKER WIRES AS YOU NEED. IF YOU GOING WITH AN NEW AMP MIGHT AS WELL UNBOLT AND REMOVE THE OLD ONE. YOU CAN REUSE ITS GROUND -NEG AND +POWER WIRES BY CUTTING THEM AND PATCHING INTO A NEW WIRE FROM YOUR AMP, ALWAYS USE BUTT OR HARDWARE CONNECTORS FOR THIS DONT JUST TWIST IT AND TAPE IT. YOU MAY FIND THAT REMOVING THE CAR SEAT IS THE EASIEST WAY .. ITS JUST 4 NUTTS OR BOLTS ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAR.. NO BIG DEAL. SO THERE YOU GO IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ASK PEOPLE.. OH.. THE ACTUAL NEW RADIO OR DECK, WELL REMEMBER WHAT YOU BUY HAS TO FIT THE EXISTING FACEPLATE HOLE, ( THE FACTORY ONE IN THE CONSOLE UNSCREWS FROM THE BACK WITH TORX, I MANAGED TO JUST FIT A STD STEREO BLUETOOTH UNIT WITH NO DVD IN THE EXISTING OPENING.. AND SOME CREATIVE WAYS TO HOLD THE DECK IN SOLID. THERE IS NO WAY TO USE THE EXISTING CONSOLE OPENING TO FIT A NEW STEREO WITH A DVD IN IT.. JUST NO WAY OTHER AND BUTCHERING IT WITH A DREMEL AND SOME BIZZARE MOUNTING ARRANGMENT. IF IT COULD BE DONE AT ALL. FACE IT.. ITS A BITCH OF A JOB TO DO THIS. IVE DONE MINE...MY THOUGHTS AFTERWORDS... ITS OK WORKS.. SHOULD HAVE JUST SOLD THE DAM CAR AND BOUGHT ONE THAT WAS MORE MOD FRIENDLY.. WELLL HELLLL NO WAY TO ADD A UPLOAD TO THIS.. DAM WELL ILL FIND A STORAGE LINK AND PUT IT HERE..SORRY

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