Door actuator motors - Has anyone tried these?

[scot850]

I added this to another thread but it may get missed there. Has anyone tried these or found any from other sources?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32915628013.html

Neil.

[WillieBeamen]

That's indeed the correct motor. I've never purchased them or know of any other sources. My only input is that splitting the lock module plastic open is the hardest part. once you've gotten the motor itself out, cracking open the can motor and removing the bi-metal resistor and replacing it with a piece of hammered copper or solder is pretty easy. Its an electric motor that's been current protected for years so its unlikely to have failed/gone bad.

Haha the more I think about it, I would de-resistor them (the new aliexpress ones) as well before I installed them because they'll just fail again. The problem really is that stupid resistor square thing in the motor.

[Eddystone]

Only wish this was true.

NOTE DESCRIPTION:

Why need Change motor?
1. After locking car by remote control, the door won't lock properly, because the motor has gone bad, it has stopped working.
2. when the car door lock sometimes work , sometimes get stuck, or remote control can sometimes open, sometimes fixed card in the Middle,
then press the remote control several times to open; ageing motor, motor torque has become smaller, motor power is not lock pieces of gear.
3. when driving in the car, after the door lock, door locks has problem that door can be opened.

Professional advice:

1. door lock Assembly easy to repair it? Locked inside the motor can change?
Locking block Assembies are fixed by screws, so they can be easily opened using a screwdriver, replace the motor is also very convenient, put it back together again is also easy.

2. replace motor or directly changed the locks block Assembly which is better?
4S shop for original locking block Assembly parts to more than $150, and a motor less tahn $15, a difference of more than 10 times. Known, locked inside metal and plastic parts ' life-or at least more than 20 years, so after changing the motor, you get a set of original locking block Assembly,renewed motor like changing batteries, because the carbon brushes of the motor service life has expired. Symptoms,when the car door can sometimes lock, sometimes won't lock, sometimes open and sometimes will notopen, motor age,motor carbon brush wear is too large, motor torque has become smaller, motor power is still locked inside the spring. After the emotpe-controlled lock andthen unlock, problematic lock blocks, can't open the door from the outside, it can be opened from the inside,left key can open the front door. And in the case of not locking the car, can play both inside and outside the door,unlocked again after locking the car, still same problem, which can open the door, but couldn't open the door

[scot850]

Yes if only.............

What many forget is that in colder climes (like Sweden/Canada) car locks can freeze so the thermal resistor is there to protect the cars electrical system as well as the item (door lock/headlight wiper motors where the blades freeze to the headlights).

In warmer areas I think that the headlight wipers are probably not required for the most part. Also the thermal protection on the door locks is possibly unnecessary too. The rear door motors in particular and front passenger side doors on later P80's where there are no door key locks it may not be needed either.

Jamming a piece of wire in or soldering a wire in place makes sense in many areas, but where I live they make sense until the stop working. Living in a country where it can go from -40C to +40C is a challenge for any manufacturer!

We use the headlight wiper motors in the winter as the roads get really mucky in the winters, but just by-passing the resistor in headlight wipers can blow your main wiper fuse if something goes wrong as they are on the same circuit. So by-passing the thermal resistor you should consider fitting an in-line fuse of lower rating than the main fuse!

Neil.