What would you do Bent Valves

wool · Post by **wool** » 29 Aug 2021, 09:16

Ive posted several times about changing the timing belt on a 2004 xc70. I've replaced the timing belt without incident but this time I ran into a snag with a frozen crank pulley so I set all three timing points, locked the cams, and disconnected the battery. The old belt was already removed. I had it towed to the shop and told them to remove the crank pulley and install the new belt. The mechanic for some reason rotated the crank. When he placed the belt on the cams there was some slack so he rotated the on of the cams to take up the slack. Well, sure enough after starting the engine, number two wasn't firing - no compression. The shop is suggesting this is my fault and wants me to write up my version of who is at fault. I'm reluctant to do this because their insurance will require me to use this shop again. I'm thinking that I should get an estimate from another shop and use small claims court. Thoughts?

darylrobert · Post by **darylrobert** » 30 Aug 2021, 03:36

If the mechanic admitted to rotating the crank, get it in writing if it isnt too late. I would definitely take it to small claims if you cannot settle it out of court. What is this shops reviews/ reputation. Ive had more than one incident where a mechanic damaged my car then needed a tow but yea, be very careful who you let work on your car.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 30 Aug 2021, 04:02

There a problem with trying to pin blame on the shop. If it was out of time enough to cause interference, more then one cylinder would have a problem. You have a problem with cylinder #2 that has nothing to do with the timing.

If you do take them to court and they have any smarts in their head. The first defensive claim would be: You brought it to them 1/2 done because you don't know what you are doing. I don't see anyway around that argument. There is stuff in the post above that would prove the defensive claim.

Post by **abscate** » 31 Aug 2021, 04:05

Forget the case, there will be no clear proof of culpability.

You need to take the head off and sort out what is bent and fix it.

Post by **vtl** » 31 Aug 2021, 06:12

Depending on mileage, it could be that a donor engine with less miles is a more worthy choice.

I attempted a full'ish engine rebuild a year ago, it cost me $1600 only in engine parts and about $3000 overall. Yet I wasn't replacing everything (because almost everything outside of the block/head was already replaced). At the end I still got a 200+k miles block with cylinder taper and less life in new piston rings, and who knows how long will it last.

Post by **chrism** » 31 Aug 2021, 14:49

Based on what you posted a week or so ago where you said you took the car in with the crank "presumably" in safe zone and then for some reason the mechanic decided to turn the crank with no belt attached, I had a hunch this wasn't going to end well. Under that scenario I can absolutely see how only one valve would be damaged - the first one that made contact when they turned the crank. Did they use an air gun to crack the bolt loose? if so, and with no belt on, then there was no valve train resistance to to help hold things static and the crank could of easily rotated CCW a ways (to the point of valve contact. Of course when the mechanic installed the new belt he/she saw the crank mark was off so they put it back on the mark, as they should. So when they started the engine there were four good cylinders and one with a dinged valve that won't build compression.

Post by **jonesg** » 31 Aug 2021, 17:08

Just fix it, there never was any need to remove the crank pulley in the first place, live and learn,

Post by **SuperHerman** » 01 Sep 2021, 22:47

You need to let the shop try and make it right. In MN last time this issue popped up the law REQUIRED you to let the shop make it right. Decency requires you to work with them, not sue them. It sounds like you want to pick a fight and not get your car fixed. It sounds like the shop is trying to work with you and actually showing great understanding. If they bent your valves they will fix the car, and in my experience not tender it to insurance. Usually the actual mechanic that broke it fixes it, at their cost.

To be honest, as an attorney that use to litigate these matters and a guy that understands cars, especially your generation Volvo - I am not buying it.

One turns the crank by hand for a reason. The reason is turning it by hand will not result in a bent valve unless one is reckless.

Sure I could write up something that smells like tranny fluid that has never been changed blaming the shop, but I honestly don't see it if the shop behaved like 99.9% of the shops I have dealt. If a valve is open and the crank is turned by hand one would feel the valve. As this is SOP a valve should not get bent. Sure the guy was built like an Olympian and had a 10 foot breaker bar on the crank bolt.

In my experience if two plausible explanations are present - both sides plug their nose and split the cost.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 01 Sep 2021, 23:33

SuperHerman wrote: ↑01 Sep 2021, 22:47 To be honest, as an attorney that use to litigate these matters and a guy that understands cars, especially your generation Volvo - I am not buying it.

The way I see it is the shop did what he hired them to do, install the timing belt. He did not hire them to do diagnostic and repair. The shop held up their end of the contract obligations. What is your professional opinion?

Post by **abscate** » 02 Sep 2021, 04:26

On re-read, IANAL but

The shop is suggesting this is my fault and wants me to write up my version of who is at fault. I'm reluctant to do this because their insurance will require me to use this shop again.

You have a choice between (1) giving them a chance to fix it on their insurance dime, or (B) taking it away on your dime. Small claims could easily deny you by just saying you should have chosen option (1)