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P2097 Woes... AGAIN.... V70 2.4T (P2) Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Jonboy74
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P2097 Woes... AGAIN.... V70 2.4T (P2)

Post by Jonboy74 »

So, this is the 3rd time I've run into this in the last 3ish years....this is getting old...

Basically, the current situation is that the engine will start, and if completely cold, for the most part seems ok. The trouble is if I stop the engine and then go to try to restart it, the thing dies almost immediately and is a bear to get moving. If I get it moving without letting off the gas (highway or interstate), it generally seems fine, and if I stop and let it idle, it seems fine, but then as soon as I kill the engine and then try to restart it, I have a miserable time keeping it running long enough to get moving.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated.... before I take it back to the $hop...which is what SWMBO wants me to do.... I'd much rather fix this myself if I can.

Here's the history....

June 2018 @ 237,855 miles, I submitted this thread:

CEL P0234 and P2097

At that point, the resolution was that I ultimately handed it off to my local indie shop and they replaced some vacuum line and the Turbo Control Valve/Booster Control Solenoid, which resolved all issues.

May of 2020 @ 263,000 miles, I submitted this thread:

V70 2.4T (P2) ECM-262A (P2097) - upper O2 sensor?

In that post, I got the suggestion to replace the vacuum lines around the Turbo Control Valve/Boost Control Solenoid and connected back to the turbo, which I did. It was also suggested that I replace the Turbo Control Valve/Boost Control Solenoid, which I did NOT do, because it hadn't even been 30k miles since it had previously been replaced.

At the same time, I decided to go ahead and replace the larger diameter evap lines. I purchased 3/8" fuel line from the local auto parts store (it was the closest match they had)….but apparently the size wasn’t the proper fit (it was slightly too small and I did have a little bit of trouble with some of the connections, but was ultimately able to make it work).

Anyway, after replacing the vacuum and evap lines, ALL of my problems seemed to go away. (Note, I did not replace the lines going back to the evap canister/fuel pump - only what I could reasonably get to on the top side of the engine compartment).

That code cleared, stayed cleared, and I was able to pass emissions inspection.

Awesome!

Fast forward to a few months later, and I started having some of the same issues - not staying started, not wanting to start up well after a short trip, hesitations, etc…. It started slowly at first, but now it’s gotten to the point that if I drive a short trip of just a few miles, and then hop back in the car to drive back a few minutes later, I almost can’t get the car to stay running long enough to get it into gear. Lord help me if I pull into a space and then have to back out…. It’s almost impossible, unless the car cools down completely, or I sit there and rev it up to 4k for a while to get the engine running. Once I get moving and have the engine under load and going down the road it generally seems fine.

And its throwing the SAME DANG CODE: P2097 (using the Torque app on my android tablet, because it is fast and convenient).

Yes, I have VIDA, but I didn't feel like pulling out the laptop...and I'm not terribly familiar with how to use all the bells and whistles. The last time I used it was for this issue last year.

August 7 (@273,087 miles), I got a misfire in cylinder 5 and replaced that coil. I noted a LOT of oil collected in the spark plug well, which the Indie shop has SAID is not that unusual, but I'm second-guessing that... Cleared the codes and thought I was ok, because it seemed to start behaving again....

Speaking of which - I last replaced the plugs Sept 2016 @ 212,042 with NGK Iridium IX 6418 plugs - 61k miles...so probably about time?

I've done a visual inspection...but not much else until today. I had a writeup all ready to go, but didn't get it posted this morning, and then had to go somewhere, and had issues again, so I very quickly (and in a quite irritated manner) replaced the Turbo Control Valve/Booster Control Solenoid with a brand new one from FCP Euro that I had bought a while back just in case, and the problems seemed to go away immediately....but that wasn't it, because the very next time I stopped and went to restart, I had the same issues. a few hours later, and I had to restart at least 4-5 times before I could get going. Drove on the interstate for 10 minutes, got home, stopped and let it idle, and it idled just fine for 10ish minutes with no issues.

Side note - on my visual inspection, the larger evap hose has split in several places. I'm not sure if that's all the way through, or mainly cosmetic, but I probably should replace that with the correct size tubing - who can tell me what that is and where to get it? If you're not sure what hose I'm talking about, see the pictures. And as a side question - what is the white fitting in that line? a 1 way valve?

Thanks!

Jonboy
2002 V70 2.4T
275,000 Miles

PS: Goodnight Elizabeth! :D


Evap lines
Evap lines
Off White fitting in Evap lines
Off White fitting in Evap lines

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

I'll hazard a guess its the wrong hoses causing it to run lean,
ECM compensates by running it rich.
P2097 shows the rich condition at the O2 sensor.
Engine is too rich to restart until it cools and resets at the ECM.
Over the long term it might damage the cat by running rich.

VIDA should show the problem by looking at fuel trims.
I'd avoid buying generic parts the local part places, talk to the techs at FCP or the parts counter at a volvo dealer, they often have good prices on parts.

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

The turbo model pulls evap vacuum from two places, the intake manifold when at idle ( that’s the right hand* branch of the T connection in your photo) , and the snorkel when under boost ; that’s the rear* branch of the T heading down to the snorkel.

The black and white valve is a check valve that stops those two vacuum sources from fighting each other

My hoses completely crumbled to oblivion there causing all sorts of running problems.

See here on my 1999

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84552&start=20

I also documented the hose sizes there is a pic, I ***** think ***** your P2 is the same layout



* right and rear refer to the car directions , not photo directions , in accordance with Mechanic Vehicle Standard 666
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Jonboy74
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Post by Jonboy74 »

Bingo! Well, I think.... We'll know in a couple of days. Just ordered this assembly from FCP Euro:

Volvo Evap Hose - Genuine Volvo 30757307

Thanks guys!

Jonboy

Image

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

there ya go, now you're doin it right.

Jonboy74
Posts: 179
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Post by Jonboy74 »

Well, that appears to have done the trick! Here is the new assembly:
New Evap hose assembly
New Evap hose assembly
Also, for anyone else who stumbles acros this thread, the assembly appears to be made with a non-reinforced silicone rubber that is actually two different sizes. All but one hose appears to be 8mm ID, wheras the long hose that goes back to the air intake appears to be 6mm ID. It is hard to tell in this picture, but I assure you that they ae different sizes (I should have put my calipers up against each one, but oh well).
New Evap hose sizes
New Evap hose sizes
And for anyone curious - here are the split hoses....yeah, that might cause a problem! :lol:
DIY with the wrong size fuel line - results in split hoses
DIY with the wrong size fuel line - results in split hoses

Thanks guys!

Jonboy

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