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2002 V70 2.4t valve body

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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ignatz
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2002 V70 2.4t valve body

Post by ignatz »

My 2002 V70 was built on 03/2002, would anyone know if the valve body was an A or a B version.
If I knew what version it was, I might pull one out of a car at the U-Pull It.
Thanks, Rob
2002 V70 2.4
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

There's a serial plate on top of the transmission that may be more helpful in determining which one it is, visible from the top. What do you plan on doing with it? If you are planning on rebuilding the solenoids I'm almost certain they are generic to both iterations from '01 to '07. The TransGo kit is applicable for these model years also.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

You could have no letter, A or B. I have seen posts with no letter being found in 02s.

What are your issues - many times the solenoids are the the main issue. I have had luck with the TransGo kit rebuild.

Here is the odd thing - when I went down the valve body path years ago it seemed like the letter didn't matter as the part Volvo listed as a replacement was the latest iteration. Double check this. If this is the case you can grab the newest lowest mileage unit you can find. Worth confirming.

Related if I recall correctly the harness on the newer VBs has to be longer, I don't recall the break here. Rostra should have some mentions on this.

Finally as Blacklab points out - the solenoids are the same (I recall this also) - so if you grab a newer VB you can always just use the solenoids if the letter doesn't match. Last I checked Rostra solenoids were in the $125 price range - so that should be your measuring stick for used VB price. You needn't take off the VB to swap the solenoids. Just remove the oil pan and disconnect the harness and swap out the solenoids.

Other advice is buy a rubber gasket - skip the RTV. You can use one from a Maxima with the related transmission. Under $10 - makes going back in so much easier if required.

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ignatz
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Post by ignatz »

Thanks, I just wanted to get the solenoids and rebuild them in case of me putting them in my 02. My 02 is a spare wagon that is beautiful, but suffers from the solenoid issues. Depending on where I drive, the V70 is fine. But if I get stuck in traffic with a lot of starting and stopping, the transmission starts shifting more abrupt.
I'll head up to the U-Pull It next week to look for a valve body that's accessible. Thanks again.
2002 V70 2.4
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift

vtl
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Post by vtl »

Amazon has a brand new Aisin Warner valve body for $500.

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SuperHerman
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Post by SuperHerman »

The original solenoids are the ones that suffered from gumming up. The newer ones, if I recall correctly, have a port for fluid to flow through and hence don't suffer nearly as much. So - first do your home work on interchange - but look for a newer valve body - to assure you have the newer design. To be honest, I just looked, and Rostra can be had for $125, it doesn't seem worth rebuilding just the solenoids. If you do the entire valve body with the TransGo kit then yes.

When I had my XC70 I could do the job in 4 hours - in and out - and using a rubber gasket (not including rebuilding the VB). It is not a bad job and there are great write ups on it.

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Blacklab467
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Post by Blacklab467 »

There was a few "updates" included in the TransGo kit that I bought for $125 and included solenoid rebuild hardware, all the valve body gaskets which I never used, various other parts and pieces including a drill bit to drill out a port slightly larger, which I did do. Seems to me there was a calibration that you had to do upon dissasembling the linear solenoids to note their length or something. I used a bead of silicone instead of a gasket.
Also available for free is the troubleshooting flow chart on their website. You mention that your car's issues are temperature related so that might help provide some insight into what the problem area might be, mine wasn't temperature sensitive.
I know people have had good luck with the Rostra solenoids, I am adverse to anything aftermarket so I stuck with stock parts.
As SuperHerman says, It's a pretty doable job in a day, I took two. Once the valve body is on the bench you can have it all done in an hour or two, best not to rush.
My satisfaction with the TransGo product and instructions was 100%. My car had a delayed 2-3 shift, and 3-4. Also used to SLAM going from neutral to drive or reverse, I didn't think it would fix that but everything was like new when I was done. Also changed the B-4 servo prior to the valve body work.
2003 XC 70 (sold)
2007 XC 70, 1970 Dodge Charger R/T.

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ignatz
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Post by ignatz »

Thanks again, another reason for me going up to the U-Pull It is to see what I have to do when the valve body cover comes off. I'm retired, so I can make a project out of this.
2002 V70 2.4
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift

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firstv70volvo
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Post by firstv70volvo »

ignatz wrote: 04 Oct 2021, 06:51 Thanks, I just wanted to get the solenoids and rebuild them in case of me putting them in my 02. My 02 is a spare wagon that is beautiful, but suffers from the solenoid issues. Depending on where I drive, the V70 is fine. But if I get stuck in traffic with a lot of starting and stopping, the transmission starts shifting more abrupt.
I'll head up to the U-Pull It next week to look for a valve body that's accessible. Thanks again.
There's a lot of good information from Sonnax in the link below. Note the different versions of the linear solenoids and general information about the symptoms of a sticking linear solenoid.
https://d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/u ... 7010632876

Because your problem seems temperature related it could very well be one of the linear solenoids (SLT or SLS) sticking at higher temperatures but could also be a worn valve body. How are your garage shifts when hot? Any harshness or delay when shift from the Park to Reverse or neutral to reverse? The reverse garage shifts apply is controlled by the SLS solenoid. Any delay with the Park to Drive garage shift or neutral to Drive? A delay to drive garage shift is controlled by the SLT solenoid.

You have several options on what you could do to fix the problem.

Because you have time you could first pull your linear solenoids and check them if they're sticking. This can be done removing the clip and spring loaded adjustment screw and then shaking the solenoid and listening for the pintle moving (rattle) back and forth easily. A more thorough test would be to do this at temperature too. You do have to have a linear caliper to measure the adjustment screw height as shown in figure 7 of the Sonnax guide. When you replace the adjustment screw you restore to the original height. Be careful with the retaining clip it can be installed two ways but it goes on only one way correctly.

I had problems with a delayed garage shift to Drive and I replaced the valve body with a new one but I finally went back and checked the linear solenoids on the original VB. Sure enough the SLT linear solenoid was sticking even at room temperature so I took it apart and took pictures of the bushing that causes the pintle to stick in the bushing. I've read there's a PTFE coating on the bushing that can cause the sticking problem and I speculate the coating, which originally was used to make sure the pintle slides freely in the bushings, swells over time and causes problems. The bushing in the solenoid I took apart sure appeared to have this coating, it's a tough coating that I partially scrapped off to confirm the bushing were coated. The drill bits in the TransGo kit should clean the bushing up and free them up.

If you have the money get the new valve body as VTL mentioned as it will eliminate other potential problems such as worn valves and bores in the valve body that may also be causing the problem.

Here are some photos of the solenoid that was sticking. The dark crud on the bushings is not dirt and grime build up it's a coating on the bushing. There maybe some dirt and grime embedded in the coating but it's primarily a coating on the bushing.
Linear solenoid disassembled.JPG
Linear solenoid disassembled.JPG (131.92 KiB) Viewed 926 times
Linear solenoid shaft.JPG
Linear solenoid shaft.JPG (48.07 KiB) Viewed 926 times
IMG_0300.JPG
IMG_0300.JPG (56.22 KiB) Viewed 926 times
Linear solenoid bushing.JPG
Linear solenoid bushing.JPG (42.22 KiB) Viewed 926 times
Linear solenoid bushing close-up.jpg
Linear solenoid bushing close-up.jpg (36.85 KiB) Viewed 926 times
solenoid bushing coating III.jpg
solenoid bushing coating III.jpg (29.54 KiB) Viewed 926 times

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ignatz
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Post by ignatz »

I got a valve body today at the U-Pull it. It's from a 2007 S60 2.5T (no AWD) marked B. I lucked out because someone took the engine and the tranny was just laying there.
My questions are.....If I put these solenoids in my transmission.....do I install them in my transmission like the solenoids are already in my transmission or do I put the solenoids in like they are in the 2007 valve body. I'm referring to how the electrical connectors are positioned.
And my car is a 2002 V70 (03/2002) and this valve body is a 2007 S60 2.5T (04/2007).
Thanks
2002 V70 2.4
2005 S60 2.5t awd
2006 S60 t5 stick shift

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