Programming required after installing an ETM for a 2006 S60 turbo?

greentea · Post by **greentea** » 05 Dec 2021, 14:56

Hi, I have a 2006 S60 turbo that won't idle properly, and I'm getting a group of error codes about the ETM. My question is does anyone know what I would need to do after buying a new one? I'm curious because the prices quoted to me vary greatly between what Auto Zone said a throttle body costs, around $450, and the ones on eBay, which are around $50-$100.

Oh, and these are the error codes that my VIDA scan came up with.

cem-9c03 Antenna/Light Ring. Signal Missing
ecm-925d Electronic Throttle Unit. Signal Too Low
ecm-929d Engine Control Module (ECM), Signal Too Low
ecm-92cc Electronic Throttle Unit, Signal Too High
ecm-9270 Throttle Unit, Faulty Signal

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Post by **abscate** » 05 Dec 2021, 15:24

Go the FCP Euro site and put in your car details , then search for throttle body

I’m pretty sure your 2006 uses a Bosch electronic Throttle actuator which does not require programming

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 05 Dec 2021, 15:27

Clear the codes and see what comes back.

Any of the above ECM-XXXX error codes can be caused by:

1. The throttle sticking or is blocked (e. g. oil film, dust)
2. Contact resistance or oxidation in the terminals between the engine control module (ECM) and the electronic throttle unit.
3. Open-circuit, short-circuit to ground or short-circuit to supply voltage in the wiring for the damper motor in the throttle unit.
4. Short-circuit to each other in the wiring for the damper motor in the throttle unit.
5. Damaged ETM or damaged ECM depending on which code. You have codes pointing to both.

The odds that the ETM and the ECM went bad at the same time is slim.
Check the wiring and electrical connections. Clean out the insides of the ETM .... where the butterfly is.

greentea · Post by **greentea** » 05 Dec 2021, 15:45

RickHaleParker wrote: ↑05 Dec 2021, 15:27 Clear the codes and see what comes back.

Any of the above ECM-XXXX error codes can be caused by:

1. The throttle sticking or is blocked (e. g. oil film, dust)
2. Contact resistance or oxidation in the terminals between the engine control module (ECM) and the electronic throttle unit.
3. Open-circuit, short-circuit to ground or short-circuit to supply voltage in the wiring for the damper motor in the throttle unit.
4. Short-circuit to each other in the wiring for the damper motor in the throttle unit.
5. Damaged ETM or damaged ECM depending on which code. You have codes pointing to both.

The odds that the ETM and the ECM went bad at the same time is slim.
Check the wiring and electrical connections. Clean out the insides of the ETM .... where the butterfly is.

Thanks. I hooked up my VIDA and cleared the codes and these are the ones came back right away.

I'll check the wiring and the connections and will clean the ETM before buying a new one. I appreciate it.

greentea · Post by **greentea** » 05 Dec 2021, 15:46

abscate wrote: ↑05 Dec 2021, 15:24 Go the FCP Euro site and put in your car details , then search for throttle body

I’m pretty sure your 2006 uses a Bosch electronic Throttle actuator which does not require programming

I will check that out. Thanks!

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 25 Feb 2025, 18:33

I found two Bosch units one on Rock Auto = BOSCH 0280750131, the other on FCPEuro = Bosch 30711554. The Rock Auto one is about $80 cheaper. As I write this I'm leaning towards the FCPEuro but just wondering if anyone has experience with either of these.

Also, in reading load of info about the Volvo ETM issues. I see that the ETM issues were related to the years 1999-2002. But is that really all? After 2002 the issue was corrected? Hard to tell from the material because it says that before 2006 Volvo owners were on their own. Does that mean that if you have a 1999-2002, you were on your own until 2006, when Volvo would then help you out under recall? Or does that mean since I have a 2006, I probably don't have an ETM issue? I've checked wires, power, still getting the P0638. Thanks.

Post by **scot850** » 25 Feb 2025, 23:13

The ETM issues were only 1999-2002. After that they went to dumb throttle bodies. The main issue with the throttle bodies is they get gummed up and oil leaks into the actuator gears, or the gears break. I had one on a 02 XC70 (cross-over year). Cleaning the throttle body, opening up the gear set and lightly lub'ing the metal gears after checking the plastic ones were not broken and the car ran fine again. I also attached another Volvo one from an 06 and an aftermarket one from Rock Auto and both also worked fine. The Rock Auto one came from a friends car that was written off 5000km after it was fitted.

Neil.

dikidera · Post by **dikidera** » 26 Feb 2025, 02:52

scot850 wrote: ↑25 Feb 2025, 23:13 The ETM issues were only 1999-2002. After that they went to dumb throttle bodies. The main issue with the throttle bodies is they get gummed up and oil leaks into the actuator gears, or the gears break. I had one on a 02 XC70 (cross-over year). Cleaning the throttle body, opening up the gear set and lightly lub'ing the metal gears after checking the plastic ones were not broken and the car ran fine again. I also attached another Volvo one from an 06 and an aftermarket one from Rock Auto and both also worked fine. The Rock Auto one came from a friends car that was written off 5000km after it was fitted.

Neil.

For turbo and certain NA versions yes, for Bifuel NA models, the ETM was used up to 2007, obviously not relevant here, but just wanted to point it out that its 1999-2007.

And yes, one is called an ETM the other a ETA.

Goldchemist · Post by **Goldchemist** » 26 Feb 2025, 04:48

Thanks for those insights into the Rock Auto vs FCP Euro. I cleaned my throttle body multiple times over the years, as recently as six months ago. never opened up the gear set though. Maybe I'll try that, but I'm also thinking to dive more into the wiring/voltage/ground etc. I checked grounds and fuses but in the past I've stumbled upon a true electrical issue after more intense testing. I am a novice though with limited electrical experience so I will only go so far. My claim to fame is a factory splice that I found compromised in my 2000 jeep xj. Looked fine from the outside but was not making the connection until I squeezed the splice. Replaced it and engine code was gone! Thanks for the replies I appreciate it.

ortho stice · Post by **ortho stice** » 27 Feb 2025, 05:45

I was having similar issues on my '06 and opted to buy a clean, used ETA from the local wrecker for $25. Before mounting it on the car I took the plastic cover off of the side to confirm it had no oil intrusion and that the plastic gear teeth were still intact. That solved my issue.