93' 940 non turbo- LF Caliper drag and radio plugs cut

Sinika74 · Post by **Sinika74** » 27 Jan 2007, 11:54

Hey guys, Im a newbie and I gotta say that this is the best Volvo site Ive come across. Ok, last night I was in the middle of changing the front pads on my wife's 93' 940 and noticed that when I turned the front drivers side brake disk, I could hear the caliper grinding on the disk. Granted, the pads were wore down about as much as they could be. The front passenger side had the same problem, just not as loud. Does this mean that the caliper is dragging? Can I buy a rebuild kit? After noticing that, I did not install the pads but I left the car on the jacks with the tires off and forgot to lock the doors. Well, guess what? Now the radio is gone and whoever did it, cut the factory plugs as well. Now there is just a big hole with a bunch of wires and a din plug. I looked around MVS for a schematic and found one but it was for a 95' 850. Does anyone know where I can find a schematic for a 93' 940...minus the plugs would be nice, if possible. What does that din plug do anyways? Any and all help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Post by **billofdurham** » 27 Jan 2007, 12:40

Hey, you're like me. If you didn't have bad luck you would have no luck at all!!

Are you sure it was the calipers catching the disc and not the metal backing of the pads? That is more likely.

Obviously you will be pushing the pistons back into the caliper so you will see if they are sticking if you have difficulty. You will also be lubricating all the other moving parts of the caliper so, again, you will see if anything is stuck. Make sure all moving parts are well cleaned of rust and dirt. For lubricating slides etc I prefer a copper grease.

As far as rebuild kits I have always kept away from them because the caliper has to be removed to the bench to rebuild it and, invariably, the bleed valves will snap off when you try to open them. I find it easier, cheaper and safer to fit new calipers.

I hope this wiring diagram will be of some use:

Bill.

Sinika74 · Post by **Sinika74** » 27 Jan 2007, 17:21

Bill, your a lifesaver. I cant thank you enough. I'll do as you suggest concerning the calipers. Any ideas on who has good deals on calipers? Maybe even "loaded" or refurbished units? How about discs? Btw, my car is a 94 850 turbo wagon & I couldnt be happier with it. Ive never seen an estate wagon before...looks sweet!

Post by **billofdurham** » 28 Jan 2007, 10:25

Thank you for the kind words.

Do the calipers need replacing?

I know where to get the parts in the UK but I can only go on what I have read in the forum for US suppliers.

Most members set great store by: http://www.fcpgroton.com/ and http://www.ipdusa.com/

No doubt others could chip in with more suppliers for you.

Good luck with the repairs.

Bill.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Jan 2007, 11:40

Don't know if they have the calipers but in general, eeuroparts.com and http://www.autohausaz.com/ are great places to buy Volvo parts too. I believe after spending so much $$, shipping is free.

Post by **billofdurham** » 28 Jan 2007, 12:55

Thanks, MIJ.

I knew we could rely on you. I have seen those companies on here before but the worn out memory would not dredge them up.

Bill.

Sinika74 · Post by **Sinika74** » 05 Feb 2007, 16:46

sorry, its taken me soo long to get back. Bill, the wiring diagram was priceless. I could not afford the calipers so I decided to re-lube the pistons on the calipers and guide-pins using CRC-synthetic brake & caliper grease in the hopes that the guide pins might have been sticking and causing the drag. I found new rotors for $20/each locally and bought some Dura-last brake pads for $20 from AutoZone. Anyway, my "new" problem is that everything went back together very smoothly with the exception of the pads. The V-shaped retention springs at the top of the pads do not match up with the slot on the top of the caliper housing. They, "being the V-springs" are about 4mm too wide to match up with the slot on top of the caliper housing. I measeured the new rotor width, it being 26mm "from where the pads kiss" and to my knowledge, this is ok but I could be wrong? The new dura-last pads are supposedly the right pads to fit this car, according to Autozone. I'm at a loss as to what to do now. I'm out of cash and we only have one car running which is REALLY hurting our ability to get to & fro our places of employment. Any ideas?

Post by **billofdurham** » 06 Feb 2007, 12:31

The V-shaped retention springs at the top of the pads

I am not sure to what you are referring with these springs. From memory I can't picture them nor can I find any V shaped springs on the component lists that I have.

There are two lots of braking components used on these cars - Girling and Bendix. The pads are different in shape and it is possible that you have the wrong pads for the system. Did you compare the new with the old?

Bill.

Sinika74 · Post by **Sinika74** » 06 Feb 2007, 13:39

Sorry my description was a bit un-clear. The V-shaped springs I am referring to are the ones that attach the pads to the caliper housing via a slot cut out on the top of the "girling" calipers. The old pads I am replacing are genuine Volvo pads and have the same V-shaped spring clips as the ones I am replacing them with. I will put an image of the pads or ones simular to them.

My pads are the ones to the far right. Can I just cut out the V-springs/bushing and install the pads or?.....What should I do?

Post by **billofdurham** » 06 Feb 2007, 15:29

Got it now. I would have said the springs were on the side, but it doesn't matter.

You can't just cut them off. They are there to hold the pads and stop them vibrating.

I don't know how you are trying to get them in but I always attach the caliper by the top bolt to the carrier (the part that is still attached to the car), then put the pads into the carrier and swivel the caliper down and over the pads. At this point there is some resistance from those springs but a little more pressure on the caliper should compress them so that the bottom bolt can be put into the caliper.

I apologise if this is how you have been doing it but I really don't think that 4mm extra on those springs should stop them going in.

Bill.