Which redblock is best for high HP?

[matthew1]

I found this and thought it'd be good to keep around.

Fredrik Rantala:

The engine code does NOT in any way tell how strong it is. All redblocks have their own strong points:

B19 late models have VERY thick cylinder walls, like 5mm so they can take ridiculous amounts of boost, like 5bar+

B21 have more displacement than B19 but thinner cylinder walls, but these even take ridiculous amounts of boost

B23 is biggest bore and can still take like 2-3bar boost. Most of these have heavy duty forged conrods that can take like 400-600hp.

B200 block good cylinder walls but small displacement.

B230 blocks have a bit thinner cylinder walls (casting for B200 and B230 is NOT SAME!)

1985-87 B200/230 have weak conrods, unless they have been replaced with the later 1989-98 13mm or H-beam rods. The blocks themselves in B230 are quite equal, the later 1995-98 blocks are a bit better, but any of these can make proven 600hp+

B200/230 blocks have 55mm main journals 1985-87 and 63mm 1988-98. The thicker are better, but the thinner 55mm mains are good for proven 500hp+ in daily driving.

And there are B230FT blocks from all models 1985-98, both with weak 9mm rods and 55mm main journals without squirters all the way to 13mm conrods and 63mm journals and the better 1995-98 block.
Not much difference which block you select for your 400-500hp build, but for a high end 600hp+ build I would take a late 1995-98 B230FK/FT block.

Much more important then selecting the block from already ridiculously sturdy blocks is what head and pistons you have.
A high flowing head with (a) good cam(s) that gives 340hp without turbo only needs 1bar to make 700hp.
But take a lazy 114hp stock B230F, you need to boost it with 5-6bar to get same power.
And there WILL be a difference in power delivery.

[abscate]

All that work and you are still way behind….


M…….. F,………. Jones