I am trying to remove the oil filter, and It does not budge I have tried multiple oil filter wrenches, and even added a pipe to get more leverege. How do I remove it?
It looks like it is a plastic housing that goes over the filter part.
Oil Filter Stuck
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lawrencium265
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I would buy a new housing before you get too crazy just in case it breaks. Also look into getting a cap style wrench that uses a ratchet.
- br0dy519
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To add to this: Don't torque it down much more beyond hand-tight and a 1/2 rotation of a ratchet next time.lawrencium265 wrote: ↑18 Mar 2022, 18:08 I would buy a new housing before you get too crazy just in case it breaks. Also look into getting a cap style wrench that uses a ratchet.
I would suggest adding a rubber glove or something like that in order to add more grip to your wrench if it's really stuck on there
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- 02V70
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Do you know what size to get? The ones that fit for any size are 3x as expensive.lawrencium265 wrote: ↑18 Mar 2022, 18:08 I would buy a new housing before you get too crazy just in case it breaks. Also look into getting a cap style wrench that uses a ratchet.
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lawrencium265
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Here's the one that ipd sells:02V70 wrote: ↑18 Mar 2022, 20:00Do you know what size to get? The ones that fit for any size are 3x as expensive.lawrencium265 wrote: ↑18 Mar 2022, 18:08 I would buy a new housing before you get too crazy just in case it breaks. Also look into getting a cap style wrench that uses a ratchet.
https://www.ctatools.com/index.php?rout ... duct_id=53
They also sell a similar one on Amazon:
CTA-Tools-A261-Cap-Type-86-Millimeter
You could try your luck looking at the ones at your local parts store I didn't see one at Walmart recently.
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cn90
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- Get a brand new oil filter cap from Volvo for a few reasons:
1. Plastic gets tired with time/heat.
2. Many shops use brutal tools to grab it during oil change.
3. Good practice to replace this every 10-12 yrs. You only replace this once in the life of the car.
4. The new Volvo filter cap also includes a brand-new oil filter itself.
- Use the Assenmacher tool or Lisle tool.
I posted the reviews of these tools in forum.
The CTA tool: probably OK under normal condition, but can break at the tack weld spots under tight condition.
1. Plastic gets tired with time/heat.
2. Many shops use brutal tools to grab it during oil change.
3. Good practice to replace this every 10-12 yrs. You only replace this once in the life of the car.
4. The new Volvo filter cap also includes a brand-new oil filter itself.
- Use the Assenmacher tool or Lisle tool.
I posted the reviews of these tools in forum.
The CTA tool: probably OK under normal condition, but can break at the tack weld spots under tight condition.
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- Krons
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I got this filter wrench:
Lisle 61660 86mm 16-Flute End Cap... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKA6QC6
As others said have a spare housing ready (Volvo preferably) as the shop I bought my car from broke mine on an oil change. I couldn't budge it (and the drain plug) as it was over tightened on previous change.
Lisle 61660 86mm 16-Flute End Cap... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKA6QC6
As others said have a spare housing ready (Volvo preferably) as the shop I bought my car from broke mine on an oil change. I couldn't budge it (and the drain plug) as it was over tightened on previous change.
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cn90
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Also,
During installation, once the filter cap stops, just snug it a bit, no need to tighten it a lot.
The sealing effect is accomplished by squeezing the O-ring sideways.
In other words, for the sake of experimentation, even if you leave a gap of 1mm during installation (between the cap and the metal housing), it still seals very well. You can try and see, tighten it down during installation until it is about < 1mm. Start the engine, there will be no leak at all. The O-ring is squeezed sideways and the sealing effect is accomplished by the O-ring expanding outward.
During installation, once the filter cap stops, just snug it a bit, no need to tighten it a lot.
The sealing effect is accomplished by squeezing the O-ring sideways.
In other words, for the sake of experimentation, even if you leave a gap of 1mm during installation (between the cap and the metal housing), it still seals very well. You can try and see, tighten it down during installation until it is about < 1mm. Start the engine, there will be no leak at all. The O-ring is squeezed sideways and the sealing effect is accomplished by the O-ring expanding outward.
Last edited by cn90 on 20 Mar 2022, 11:17, edited 1 time in total.
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- erikv11
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In my experience, there is no just-do-it-exactly-like-this method for these P2 oil filter caps. On our XC70 I must overtighten the cap, really crank it down, or it leaks. This was true with the used cap the car came with and with a brand new Volvo cap I put on hoping to fix the issue. On my S60 just snug seals it well.
Bottom line: first tighten it snugly i.e. turn until it stops, if no leak you are done but if needed be prepared to crank it tighter. A slow leak may take an hour or a day to show up.
Bottom line: first tighten it snugly i.e. turn until it stops, if no leak you are done but if needed be prepared to crank it tighter. A slow leak may take an hour or a day to show up.
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'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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