Volvo OEM Axle ID-ing

Post by **Eddystone** » 04 Apr 2022, 11:42

So, how can you tell if the axles at the pick and pull are OEM Volvo or aftermarket?

Once everything is free at the hub end, do the axles just pull out, or is there a retaining bolt at the trans?

Are axles from MANUAL cars different from those in AUTO cars?

(Yes, I'm getting my VIDA up and running, but not there quite yet...)

Post by **scot850** » 04 Apr 2022, 13:29

The 98 are more challenging to pull at a yard as undoing the nut is a challenge, especially if the car is off the ground and no wheels.

I have a impact driver that might undo the nut that is cordless but again a challenge. Assuming you get the nut off and the splines are not glued in, then the axle pulls out once the hub is out the way. There are no other bolts.

The axles are located in the trans with a spring ring in a groove. Sometimes these will pop out, but often they stick in like the devil.
In that case take a large hammer and a cold chisel to place between the trans housing and the axle. A couple of sharp whacks should release it. When doing this on your own car be careful not to damage the transmission casing.

The later 99- axles are much easier to remove as the retaining bolt is much easier to remove (normally). Otherwise the same removal process.

I believe manual and auto axles are different, but others may be sure on this. Also make sure you get the right one for your year and type of engine (turbo/NA). I understand the turbo version may fit the NA but not wise to do the other way as the NA are not as sturdy.

Neil.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Apr 2022, 13:57

There is a deep dive thread into axlenoart numbers in this Forum.

Please put women and children into the lifeboats first

Link

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forum ... 92#p557292

Post by **FireFox31** » 04 Apr 2022, 17:48

Here are pictures of front axles from a 1999 V70 non-turbo automatic. Look for the white stickers on the cylindrical parts. Failing that, check the shafts for rust. I put a cheap aftermarket axle on my Mercedes and the shaft had a coating of rust in five years while the original, like these Volvo ones, remained nicely coated.

While cleaning the axles, I noticed manufacturer stamps on them. "GKN Germany" was etched into the black metal by the reluctor rings. The GKN logo is embossed on the boots as well. If the white labels are missing and you can clean these areas, these stamps should suggest they're good quality originals.

I easily pulled these 1999 axles at a junkyard. Unlike the 1998, the 1999-2000 have a bolt which can be removed: Remove the tire, remove the center cap, reinstall the tire, put weight on the tire to stop it from spinning, then remove the bolt.

Removing the axles from the transmission caused transmission fluid to leak immediately. Have a catch pan ready and/or drain the transmission first. How people do this without lifts out in the fields of a junkyard is beyond me.

Manual axles are different from automatic. I've heard manual axles are hard to find so take any you can.

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Apr 2022, 20:24

Looking for rust is a good idea. The Volvo axles hold up very well.

scot850 wrote: ↑04 Apr 2022, 13:29 The 98 are more challenging to pull at a yard as undoing the nut is a challenge, especially if the car is off the ground and no wheels.

I have a impact driver that might undo the nut that is cordless but again a challenge. Assuming you get the nut off and the splines are not glued in, then the axle pulls out once the hub is out the way. There are no other bolts.
...

Don't forget the two 10 mm bolts on the passenger side axle at the carrier bearing, must be removed first for a 98 (and for 850s)

Post by **scot850** » 04 Apr 2022, 23:38

Ah, crap. Forgot about those. Fitted on all P80's, FWD and AWD on the RH axle carrier bearing.

Neil.

Post by **Eddystone** » 05 Apr 2022, 11:54

Thanks very much, FireFox31. That's exactly what I needed.

FireFox31 wrote: ↑04 Apr 2022, 17:48 Here are pictures of front axles from a 1999 V70 non-turbo automatic. Look for the white stickers on the cylindrical parts. Failing that, check the shafts for rust. I put a cheap aftermarket axle on my Mercedes and the shaft had a coating of rust in five years while the original, like these Volvo ones, remained nicely coated.

While cleaning the axles, I noticed manufacturer stamps on them. "GKN Germany" was etched into the black metal by the reluctor rings. The GKN logo is embossed on the boots as well. If the white labels are missing and you can clean these areas, these stamps should suggest they're good quality originals.

I easily pulled these 1999 axles at a junkyard. Unlike the 1998, the 1999-2000 have a bolt which can be removed: Remove the tire, remove the center cap, reinstall the tire, put weight on the tire to stop it from spinning, then remove the bolt.

Removing the axles from the transmission caused transmission fluid to leak immediately. Have a catch pan ready and/or drain the transmission first. How people do this without lifts out in the fields of a junkyard is beyond me.

Manual axles are different from automatic. I've heard manual axles are hard to find so take any you can.

Post by **Eddystone** » 05 Apr 2022, 11:59

As I said, I have all the proper parts to reboot and regrease good Volvo axles. Been through ALL of those threads. I'd just like to have extras that I can work on and rotate in.

I think I have a bad axle seal on the driver's side of the 98 V70 Auto leaking trans fluid. Trying not to duplicate assembly and disassembly as much as possible. There's another blooper thread for this, but a few years ago I put in new control arms and tie rods working in a parking lot. Went to move the car a few feet and found that something I thought was seated was not. Car dropped a couple of inches on the driver's side and the axle needed to be reseated. It wasn't a huge catastrophe, but I thing that seal is the culprit for the trans leak I have on that side. A lot of gunk makes it hard to see, and other issues have taken priority so far over the leak.