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I finally got around to replacing the Turbo water supply hose

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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azureblue
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I finally got around to replacing the Turbo water supply hose

Post by azureblue »

On my 2001 Volvo V70. There are a few things different from Robert's how to:
1 - To drain the radiator, you need a #40 torx bit.
2 - My car had Oetiker clamps on the hose and they are a PITA to get loose.
On the end attached to the cross block water supply pipe, I had to use an oscillating cutter tool to slice through the clamp. There is no way to get anything in there to cut or release the clamp. Then I had to slice to hose to get it loose from the fitting. At this point, coolant will drain from the hose, so expect to get wet, and have a pan ready.
3 - Forget trying to get the clamp loose from the turbo supply pipe. The pipe the hose is attached to runs behind another pipe, behind the motor mount bracket, and winds its way up to the turbo, so you have to remove the 17MM banjo bolt from the turbo, and snake the pipe and hose out of the car. Make a note of the position of the old hose so you can match it to the new one.
4 - I used standard clamps, one a bit larger than the other, and a bit of lube to get the new hose on. the one on the turbo pipe end was placed with the screw at the top; the clamp for the supply pipe end had the clamp on the bottom. both screw side facing.. I rotated the new hose to the right position, then snaked the assembly back into place, and slipped the hose over the cross block supply pipe fitting.
5 - Then I put in the banjo bolt with new brass washers, but didn't tighten everything down until every thing was aligned and in place. It is easy to reach in there with a 17mm Socket and extension. I tightened the banjo bolt, then the two clamps. Not a hard job, just finicky.

( mod edit socket size)
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VadimCr
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Post by VadimCr »

You've done a great job, and I am happy you've managed to do it all by yourself

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Remove oetikers with Dremel on the high point. It’s faster than a jubilee clamp

Tighten with Knipex pliers, side or top close. Also faster and better than worm clamps, especially on small hoses

Edited banjo socket reference from 7mm to 17mm with mod apologies
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

This was mostly to highlight the differences between models. My early 2001 P2 has some stud on it left over from the P1 series. But not in this case...

I don't own an Oetiker tool, and i wasn't interested in tracking down and buying one just for this job. Volvo told me that screw type clamps will work just fine. It was still tight to get any tool up in there, which is why I like the oscillating cutter so much - it doesn't take up much space and is easy to control. Way back I used it to cut off a rounded starter bolt.. It won't cut rubber, though :-).
544
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

You can crimp oetikers with dikes, too.
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
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