Here’s to that last bolt tomorrow.

Check out the corrosion when I worked this job a year ago…

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93660&p=539741&hili ... nt#p539741

Are you sure you didn’t just over articulate the CV joint? It might be quiet if you get it back in place. Please post up the part numbers on the inner engine mount so we can document the part change, and VIN BREAK Argh, oooof. Here is some info from Volvowebstore https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/p...

That looks awesome. What a pain, but you got there.

Have you had a chance to look at the axle yet?

Neil.

There is some funkiness in the 1999s part structure

Parking brake shoes

Same from -1998

In 1999, FWD use P80s shoes, and AWD use P2 shoes


But they both use P80 hardware to mount

Pm you my phone if you get stuck

You need to arm yourself with VIN AND engine number when buying parts

30 Nm for the upper column to Uj, new bolt and nut required

20 Nm for the rAck to coupler , new locknut required

Quick addition for these parts. The top joint has a critical safety function of breaking in a front end collision , preventing column forces from being transmitted up to the driver chest.

Part numbers, diagram

User orangex has a really good YouTube on this showing the right position clearly.

I think s/he is peppermint on the YouTube channel. Sounds like a guy but we can identify how ever we wish today can’t we? Things I learned from my 10 year old.

I'd go to a heavy / fleet truck parts place, and ask them about it. Large trucks have lots of high pressure hoses to deal with. We have a local place like that, and they make the hoses onsite. It's been awhile since I've had to do it, but they might even use your metal ends; just recrimp with a new ...

The -92 only seems available from URO. The -93 still seems available from Volvo. The shorter hose I would look for generic oil resistant hose. If you are concerned it may collapse, you could see if you can find a spring to fit it on the outside of the hose to help it hold it's shape.

Neil.

URO is trash. Not sure if there's a way to convert to the later hsoe design that's still available new, but it's probably worth looking into. Foir a cheap and dirty solution, you could try cutting the hardlines on each end, flaring them, and replacing the center rubber part with a good quality hose ...