The in between model of RTF and PM is you buy the new parts and store them in the car so you lessen the impact of a failure by having parts on hand, while squeezing every last penny of life out of your OE parts. Your GLT turbo has some nasty, hard to replace small hoses serving the turbocharger that...

On my 98 S70, I ended up only doing the one outer the first time, only to end up doing all four about a year later at around 250k miles. I also did control arms and struts, and it had a dramatic improvement in handling, despite the majority of the components being seemingly "fine". If you ...

In my experience, the heater hoses will last forever as long as you don't touch them. :lol: Inspect the hoses. If there are no bulges, cracking, or signs of seeping, then they are probably serviceable for a while longer ~200k. They are all easy to replace baring the coolant supply line that runs to ...

I had no problem doing my tie rods. I used a pipe wrench for the inners. Just don't put too much excessive force into it. Since you've already done control arms, then yes I'd do all 4 tie rods.

It's my understanding that in general outer tie-rod ends get more wear due to greater movement during use. This seems to be true on my truck. I would likely replace just the outers unless the inners were obviously bad. Both my Volvos are low mileage so I haven't had to deal with this on a P80.

The upper hose would be easy, but I'm not sure the lower hose is easy. I've never changed mine, but doesn't it snake around the back and is basically a blind install? Seems like I've heard that Volvo used a couple different hose designs, too. That age/mileage is definitely getting up there for hoses...

I wrote a reply to this and posted it but once again it has disappeared for some reason?? Basically the guys have covered all the issues. Either leave it alone if it is not leaking, but if it keeps you up at night, then replace it but then do all the other parts too, hoses, thermostat, flush and new...

The most common areas for leaks on the radiator are: 1) the top hose joint to the radiator - This can fracture and the top hose shear off (one of my cars did this). The reason for the failure was not the engine mounts but the original Volvo radiator has a brass liner tube in it presumably to strengt...

I was thinking along the lines of vacuum leak too, as mentioned above, and also it could be a dirty or binding AIC (automatic idle control) valve. The AIC can be removed, inspected and cleaned if needed.

The plastic bits have been fine for me. The rubber hoses started to turn into a squishy brittle substance that I wouldn't call rubber.