Okay new cap, rotor and plugs installed, old ones were Bosch 4 electrode plugs, looked fine though. The leads however, I found cracks on 4 out of 5 of them where the grey plastic tube is that is inside the engine. As a temporary fix I wrapped them all in electric tape and then in vulcanizing rubber ...

I was able to find Bougicord online for about the same price as NGK so I decided to go with that. But yeah they seem to be hard to find, good to know NGK works though.

You can remove the radiator fan pretty easily, no need to remove entire radiator.

Could you take photo of the top of the engine, can't see what it looks like where the PCV barb should be on the top.

I haven't needed to check the cabling so I don't really know. I would assume you would have to find and trace the cables and visually inspect them for damage. You originally suspected the PNP switch, have you ruled that one out? I think this advice here might be relevant for you: https://www.matthew...

My other car is also swedish, it's a Saab 900. It does get used as a car should

Man if I had to write here everytime I spotted a Volvo. It's perhaps the most common brand here on the roads. Typically a Volvo V70 is the most common car, followed by other brands of wagons.

I have tried to empirically work my way through the problem today. I found the ignition coil cable was touching the AMM. I moved the cable so that it was not touching. Cleared the fault codes, went on a test ride of 8km. Result: No difference, the same kind of fault codes returned after the trip. I ...

No need to remove the crank pulley on my '97 I got the belt off and the new one on without much trouble. It's meant to be doable.

I bought submersible fuel hose from a physical store and it was IIRC 20 euros per meter when I rebuilt the fuel pump for my Saab.

I wouldn't buy a thing like this online, never know if you get the real thing. Amazon and Ebay are full of counterfeits.

I decided to paint the intake! Good enough I think.